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Taisto

New Member

• Sep 26, 2007

• #1

Hello!

I`m new in this forum and english is not my first language, so forgive me

I drive 1996 Discovery I ES Automatic 300Tdi.

Has enyone repaired ENGINE SPEED SENSOR on 300 Tdi? I assume this engine was created for Defender, because it is obviously impossible to reach to this sensor, cause it is located on the right top of gearbox (looking driving direction) and this is the place where 300Tdi is truly close to the chassis. No possibility to unscrew or even take off the sensor.

Does it mean I have to take off the gearbox to change a little piece of plastic? Or is there any help of releasing engine pad on right side?

Best!

 

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cipx2

New Member

• Sep 26, 2007

• #2

Welcome to the forum!

Some say it takes 20 mins to change it (from underneath) and some found out that it takes days to do that. Have a look here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/300tdi-engine-speed-sensor-38577.html

I guess it's down to the Land Rover good old tolerance working in your favor or not.

 

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Taisto

New Member

• Sep 26, 2007

• #3

Thanks!

I found this topic earlier and I see that this is truly the way of creativeness!

Taisto

 

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eightinavee

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2007

• #4

So has anyone actually tested the sensor,or are you changing it because of a fault code ?

 

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Taisto

New Member

• Sep 26, 2007

• #5

Yes, I was at the Rover stend and the computer showed that speeds at engine speed sensor and injection timing sensor are different. That`s why the Disco runs like a tank and the CEL is lighting. In the process it is normal in the beginning when I start the vehicle, then around 2500rpm it looses power with the CEL coming on. And this is every time since it occurred in the middle of july in the middle of Russia... (I live in Estonia)

 

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eightinavee

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2007

• #6

The live data displays on Testbook are not too good, plus the needle lift sensor does not give an output at all when the engine is on overrun.(because the injector is not injecting ang fuel) Before going to all this trouble I would get the crank sensor output up on an oscilliscope screen - and the needle lift one.
Your problem is much more likely to be a slack timing belt or a worn injector pump,as the check engine light will come on if the point of injection deviates too much from where it should occur according to the crank sensor.
What actual fault codes were logged ?