dvb668w

dvb668w

Active Member
Hi,
I’m trying to work out what’s the best engine for me LWB. I don’t tow but I have been known to load up quite a bit of camping gear from time to time. Currently I have a prima 2lt engine that is fine but dose drop off speed on hills but let me sit at 50mph on the flat with a bit of a run up lol
The options I can see are…


200 TDI
Everyone is doing these but I don’t think I’m up to the challenge as I don’t have a workshop…

200 DI (less the turbo)
I understand if you don’t have to deal with the turbo the conversion is more of a simple engine swap. Question is would a 200DI be better than a 2.5NA engine?


2.5 NA
Would a 2.5 be a simpler swap with fewer alterations than a DI
or TDI option?



I’m only considering the change as I have a SWB on its way that could make better use of the Prima as it won’t have the weight to deal with.
All I’m looking for is a cruse speed of 60mph without the loss of power on hills. Maybe a bit of extra umph for overtaking but to be honest I would probably sit at 55 most of the time.


Another question is can anyone recommend someone in the south east that could supply and fit an engine??????


There must be people here that are running the above configurations and I would love to hear your views on ease of conversion and performance J

Many thanks Andy
 
tdi chances of finding any other in good running order is rare ,without turbo i havent tried but would still be better than 2.5 na asa is a better direct injection designed engine
 
200 tdi puts out 111 bhp which is a lot for Series running gear and brakes. As a Di it puts out about 80bhp and will cruise happily at 65mph in a 109 though without the extra oomph from the turbo it will lose speed on hills.

12J 2.5 N/A is a different beast altogether and has more in common with the 10J 2 1/4's though it does have an updated injection pump and cam belt. About 68 bhp but is very much an engine from a different era compared to a 200.
 
i am putting a 200 tdi in my 109 at the moment, had no problems with fitting and engine mountings, but when checking the turbo found it to be tight so this made my mind up and i have taken the turbo off and will be running it as a 200 di, as jamesmartin says its a better designed engine and no starting problems as direct injection, the only problem i have at the moment is making a flange to suit the four bolt exaust manifold
 
peter8315 said:
i am putting a 200 tdi in my 109 at the moment, had no problems with fitting and engine mountings, but when checking the turbo found it to be tight so this made my mind up and i have taken the turbo off and will be running it as a 200 di, as jamesmartin says its a better designed engine and no starting problems as direct injection, the only problem i have at the moment is making a flange to suit the four bolt exaust manifold
Click to expand...

tilt your engine and gearbox to lift the turbo clear of the chassis rail
 
i usually just modify front mounts to give some clearance ,sit engine in at what seems right and measure
 
Ok so by just packing the engine mounts out 1 or 2 inch I don’t have to go hunting for different turbo mounts or chopping chunks out of the chassis???
I guess I would have to park on a hill to check the oil but a small price to pay….

(I wonder if this would affect the MPG as the engine would think it was going uphill all the time :hysterically_laughi)
 
no they sit a bit front end low in a series it will look more level lifted a little ,ali turbo housing can be moved around to suit
 
Is anyone out there offering these mount or extentions for sale ????
(Possible business opportunity for someone maybe)
 
peter8315 said:
turbo clears chassis by miles, i have taken turbo off now as it ws very tight (not rotating ) but still have to mank up a flange and down pipe for exaust
Click to expand...

the 200 turbo doesn't clear a 109 chassis without a little fettling

there's two or three ways to do this (actually a few more ways)...

1. scallop a small chunk out of the chassis rail so the turbo sits in a hollow

2. lift the passenger side of the engine and gearbox approximately 3/4 - 1inch this lifts the turbo above the chassis rail

3. lift the front of the engine even higher and possibly have to deal with your front propshaft angle

4. throw the turbo away and go DI

5. do as i've done and find a 300tdi turbo

6. find a defender 200tdi turbo and manifolds (big money)

an 88" chassis requires no mods to fit the 200tdi complete but you'll either have to "clock" the turbo or cut the lower section of the inner wing to allow the turbo hose to connect to the intercooler

i hope that's cleared things up

p.s.
if the 109 happens to have originally been a sixpot then there will be other complications
 
Last edited:
NiteMare said:
p.s.
if the 109 happens to have originally been a sixpot then there will be other complications
Click to expand...

True :( Even as a Di if twas a six pot the engine mounts on the chassis need moving and engine sits back almost tight with the bulkhead........or move the gearbox forwards.......And the bell-housing will ALMOST, ALMOST fit the engine.......but not quite :frusty:
 
I planned to whack in a full-fat 200TDi, using 300TDi manifold & turbo. Bought most of the bits to do it. If you want a pretty much "off the shelf" jobbie, do this, as everything pretty much bolts together. 300TDi manifold bolts on, exhaust from Steve Parker to suit using said manifold, the only things to mess with is wiring, flywheel housing studs, and mounting the radiator.

I bailed in the end and went for 200Di, it does run nicely and as long as I plan in advance I have no problems on hills! Although I wish I put the turbo on, I've now made bigger plans including 5speed box to counteract the gearing issues and crap whiney series box and overdrive I have. And fit a 300tdi with the proper Disco mounts once that's done :)
 
NiteMare said:
the 200 turbo doesn't clear a 109 chassis without a little fettling

there's two or three ways to do this (actually a few more ways)...

1. scallop a small chunk out of the chassis rail so the turbo sits in a hollow

2. lift the passenger side of the engine and gearbox approximately 3/4 - 1inch this lifts the turbo above the chassis rail

3. lift the front of the engine even higher and possibly have to deal with your front propshaft angle

4. throw the turbo away and go DI

5. do as i've done and find a 300tdi turbo

6. find a defender 200tdi turbo and manifolds (big money)

an 88" chassis requires no mods to fit the 200tdi complete but you'll either have to "clock" the turbo or cut the lower section of the inner wing to allow the turbo hose to connect to the intercooler

i hope that's cleared things up

p.s.
if the 109 happens to have originally been a sixpot then there will be other complications
Click to expand...
there was a good 2 inches between the turbo and the chassis rail, i dont know how but i did expect problems with thyis but as i say its going to be a 200 di and if in the future i can get hold of a defender turbo it is a much simpler job, buy hey i dont do any drag racing with it
 
peter8315 said:
there was a good 2 inches between the turbo and the chassis rail, i dont know how but i did expect problems with thyis but as i say its going to be a 200 di and if in the future i can get hold of a defender turbo it is a much simpler job, buy hey i dont do any drag racing with it
Click to expand...

As above you don't need to remortgage your house and use defender bits, 300tdi manifold & turbo fits straight on, with 300tdi turbo oil pipes
 
i don't drag race my 109 either (just in case you don't know, it's Big Ears) the transmission is too sweet to abuse and he's a nice straight truck that i expect to own for quite some time :)

3.54 diffs only at present which gives me nice cruising speeds along with pretty fair economy of roughly 29.3 mpg over 220 miles averaging 60mph with a high of 75-80mph for a short while this weekend, 99% of that journey was motorway

no idea how come your engine sat so high, mine sits nice and low in the chassis in both my 88" and Big Ears along with the same in the '59 88" i'm building at present, i'll guess your chassis mounts have been relocated at some time for some reason
 
blue beasty said:
True :( Even as a Di if twas a six pot the engine mounts on the chassis need moving and engine sits back almost tight with the bulkhead........or move the gearbox forwards.......And the bell-housing will ALMOST, ALMOST fit the engine.......but not quite :frusty:
Click to expand...

is there a 6 pot issue to do with prop shaft lengths, due to the motor being longer / mounts being in different places?

looking at doing this conversion, and didn't realise the bell housing was different too, so will need that as well then....

maybe I'll sort the 6 pot out and keep that as it's on gas anyway!
 
tbone portly said:
is there a 6 pot issue to do with prop shaft lengths, due to the motor being longer / mounts being in different places?

looking at doing this conversion, and didn't realise the bell housing was different too, so will need that as well then....

maybe I'll sort the 6 pot out and keep that as it's on gas anyway!
Click to expand...
props are diferent as is floor plates ,tunnel ,bulkhead plate
 
jamesmartin said:
props are diferent as is floor plates ,tunnel ,bulkhead plate
Click to expand...

along with the position of the engine mounts on the chassis and location of the gearbox mounts

tdi's have been fitted in sixpots but they are definitely more involved, it's been discussed and i believe done on the Series 2 Forum
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Kingshill-Rover
Series 3 LWB in Buckinghamshire - Front Springs
Replies
11
Views
860
Rangieman123
Rangieman123
M
Crankshaft pulley for FL1 1.8 K-Series 2005 model
Replies
5
Views
552
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
M
2003 FREELANDER HEATED REAR SCREEN
Replies
2
Views
269
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
S
Engine installation and running
Replies
4
Views
560
dag019
dag019
dag019
Radiator options
Replies
19
Views
1K
Bobsticle
Bobsticle