Henry_b said:
The biggest problem with stretch bolts is the inconsistency. A stretch bolt from one supplier may start to stretch at 30 lbft while another from a different manufacturer may not start until 40 lbft. Then there is the amount of elasticity in the bolt once it starts to stretch. A softer bolt will stretch a lot and not apply much pressure while one that is a bit harder will apply far more pressure some of the cheaper stretch bolts have been known to snap before you get the second 90 degree turn on them. At least when you do an ARP stud up to a certain torque you know that the pressure it is exerting is going to be the same every time.
Also the problem with doing stretch bolts up to a certain torque figure is that they stretch so you've no real idea of how much pressure they are putting on the joint face. At least with the studs, you know that what your torque wrench says is what they are done up to. The other advantage is that the thread on the nut end is finer than the 5/8th UNC thread in the block so you've got far more control.
Click to expand...

I hear you. But I can't really spend almost £200 on studs because I have already spent well over £1000 on bits, bobs and parts. I have more to go :confused:

However, I got my tub of fancy ARP grease to put on the bolts. Indie said to paste the bolts, run them down the hole and back out, then paste them again & repeat. Then, when the head is ready to put on, do it once more (a light coating each time, not blobs of it) and this will help the bolts go down and give a truer torque.

That's the theory anyway o_O

We're at a caravan site just now and it's great apart from the locals storming past the back of the van on the wee road to the village....oh and some asshole who's dog keeps barking :mad:

The sunshine is great :cool:
 
Doo is doing the engine in order to sell the f'in jalaopy with a 'beyond what would be considered decent' for it's new owner, way beyond most folks normal remit, bolts will be fine with one proviso, after all your farting about with fancy pants grease please do remove the gobs of it from the dark depth of the bolt holes or else you could end up with two 4-blocks!

A normal tube of Moly is what I'd use, threads and upper face of washers.
 
Last edited:
myfirstl322 said:
Doo is doing the engine in order to sell the f'in jalaopy with a 'beyond what would be considered decent' for it's new owner, way beyond most folks normal remit, bolts will be fine with one proviso, after all your farting about with fancy pants grease please do remove the gobs of it from the dark depth of the bolt holes or else you could end up with two 4-blocks!

A normal tube of Moly is what I'd use, threads and upper face of washers.
Click to expand...

I've even thought of that.... Long handled cotton buds and a pitot tube size pipe and an oil sucking thingy I bought for a mates Smart Car service eons ago.

I started cleaning the block from the bottom up. Takes ages for me due to pain. Mates come and help me with the big shit. Have to say big thanks to Mike "Butch" Butchart who was on hand for the engine removal. He's a hairy biker and freely admits to knowing "eff all" about cars, but he's willing to learn and THAT right there is a massive bonus :cool:
 
Doo said:
I've even thought of that.... Long handled cotton buds and a pitot tube size pipe and an oil sucking thingy I bought for a mates Smart Car service eons ago.

I started cleaning the block from the bottom up. Takes ages for me due to pain. Mates come and help me with the big shit. Have to say big thanks to Mike "Butch" Butchart who was on hand for the engine removal. He's a hairy biker and freely admits to knowing "eff all" about cars, but he's willing to learn and THAT right there is a massive bonus :cool:
Click to expand...
I find a spray with brake cleaner then a blast of air with a rag wrapped around the air gun works for me. Everyone needs a "Butch" ;):D
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doo
Doo said:
I hear you. But I can't really spend almost £200 on studs because I have already spent well over £1000 on bits, bobs and parts. I have more to go :confused:

However, I got my tub of fancy ARP grease to put on the bolts. Indie said to paste the bolts, run them down the hole and back out, then paste them again & repeat. Then, when the head is ready to put on, do it once more (a light coating each time, not blobs of it) and this will help the bolts go down and give a truer torque.

That's the theory anyway o_O

We're at a caravan site just now and it's great apart from the locals storming past the back of the van on the wee road to the village....oh and some asshole who's dog keeps barking :mad:

The sunshine is great :cool:
Click to expand...
blow holes out with an airline and just lightly oil the bolt threads the rest is just fannying about
 
I've already blown the crud out of the head bolt holes. I am speaking about once I've greased the bolts and run them in/out. I've never worked on a V8 before so I am being super careful.
 
Doo said:
I've already blown the crud out of the head bolt holes. I am speaking about once I've greased the bolts and run them in/out. I've never worked on a V8 before so I am being super careful.
Click to expand...
Just like two 4 cylinder motors joined with a valley manifold and sharing a camshaft.;):D
 
So, turns out LR has shoved their lengthy pee pee into my rectum via time travel :(

My engine is currently toast!

I have been "advised" to just plastic weld it and sell it.... But I can't! I really couldn't in good conscience do that to another person. It's immoral o_O

So I need a top hatted bottom end. :(:(:(

Anyone got one as sweet as mine?

I've contacted RPI and await a response to see if they will do a PX with my low mileage lump. The damage is in an area that can be cut out when doing a top hat conversion. But I simply cannot afford to spend a shed load "more" money on a freshly engineered lump, but I do need a decent and honest bottom end.

nOudgFw.jpg


LJ7A52Y.jpg
Wl0P6xG.jpg



The liner is ready to slip, so I cannot put that back together and pass it on to some poor bugger.

Fucksticks :mad:

If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all :rolleyes:
 
Didn't some of the castings have sections of aluminium at the bottom of the liners to stop them dropping ?

Maybe complete the build with what you have, and sell it with the proviso "it might need some engine work".
 
Is it 4.0 or 4.6?
Whole engine on mine was fine when parked up if you want to take a punt on swapping the motor into yours.
 
Doo said:
That's an awesome offer. It's a 700 mile round trip.... It's very tempting. What miles is on the engine??
Click to expand...
I'd have to check but I think it's just shy of 140k,the last 40k is mine. It had just had head gaskets done when I got it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Bell housing to engine bolt sizes/grade TD5
Replies
0
Views
907
Sgsowen
S
Maat
Disco 2 Torque converter won't go in all the way
Replies
8
Views
1K
kevstar
kevstar
AH-4x4
Help ending my leak - 200TDI
Replies
10
Views
586
AH-4x4
AH-4x4
C
Freelander 2 (LR2) Engine Removal Sequence
Replies
4
Views
2K
pwood999
pwood999
J
Defender 300 Tdi Engine Swap
Replies
4
Views
873
jer_300Tdi_90
J