Graculus
Well-Known Member
Well as threatened a couple of weeks ago, I resolved the engine oil leak on my 4.4TDV8 today... @Mark Piercy is to blame for this thread as he wanted proof of me doing 'stuff' 
Six months ago I replaced the oil cooler assembly which had been leaking for some time prior to buying the car - parts were provided by the trader I bought the car from. The smell of burning oil was still there a few weeks later so I removed the contaminated exhaust crossover pipe insulation and replaced with exhaust wrap tape - all good for the next five months or so.
Then the smell was back - checked the undertrays, slight misting of oil and traces around both sides of the bell housing, checked the turbo oil feed pipe with a mirror, no signs of any leakage (I replaced the 'O' rings when the oil cooler was replaced), had a look down the sides of the oil cooler / EGR cooler and there was signs of leakage - I'd previously cleaned this area whilst replacing the oil cooler so it was evidence of a new leak. The only probable cause of the leak is the EGR cooler base gasket, if it was the seal around the crankcase breather outlet, there would be evidence of oil leaking further up, not just in the 'V'.
Anyway, pictures....
Once you've got the wipers, scuttle, bracing bars & radiator finishing trim out of the way, it's essentially the same as the L322
In the above photo, the 'doughnut' is already removed (got carried away and forgot photos!)
Opinions on EGR's are varied, whilst I don't think they have any positive effect on anything, I wouldn't blank & map out - the residue (or lack of it) in this mainly town driving car shows it's not as bad as most would imagine it could be.
There's quite a bit of stuff to move, what I would say is that move everything that'll be in the way, don't fight your way past or through stuff - bungees, straps, even a few sacrificial cable ties will save frustration and cost in replacing broken bits, also be careful what you're leaning on , it's a long way from the front bumper to the back of the EGR!.
This is the EGR actuator, you can see the oil mist and some oil to the right of it on the cooler
Oil never leaks upwards, so it's already looking like the EGR cooler to engine gasket isn't the culprit.
Here's the bracket masking the source of the leak
Underneath it....
Oil cooler removed - drain down the coolant and the oil filter before starting to minimise cross-contamination.
Here's the turbo oil feed, the 'O' rings get brittle & leak, LR only sell them with the pipe.
You can get the correct size in Viton, use red rubber grease to ease them in and prevent dragging
The next part was to split the oil cooler and find out why it was leaking
Fairly conclusive, the gasket wasn't fitted correctly when assembled.
So clean it all up, new gaskets & seals, re-assemble.
Vacuum filling the coolant circuits is always the best way, hold test for 10 mins is also a good leak-check and can also pull in any connections that haven't been fully fitted.
After that, run test, leak check, a good spray with degreaser before washing down with a hose not a jetwash.
On a side note, I always (on my own vehicles) use Nyogel dielectric grease on any engine bay electrical connectors that have been opened after a good blast of brake cleaner & compressed air, not only does it prevent corrosion but it also helps minimise contact fretting.
So not the job I thought it'd be, thankfully I'd ordered every seal & gasket, even though I didn't anticipate having to strip some of them.
With hindsight(!) the continuing smell after the oil cooler replacement that I thought was just existing oil on the insulator was clearly a new leak, replacing the insulation gave me the grace period until it'd soaked through again, it's made worse by lack of visibility in the area where the leak leaves the oil cooler.
Six months ago I replaced the oil cooler assembly which had been leaking for some time prior to buying the car - parts were provided by the trader I bought the car from. The smell of burning oil was still there a few weeks later so I removed the contaminated exhaust crossover pipe insulation and replaced with exhaust wrap tape - all good for the next five months or so.
Then the smell was back - checked the undertrays, slight misting of oil and traces around both sides of the bell housing, checked the turbo oil feed pipe with a mirror, no signs of any leakage (I replaced the 'O' rings when the oil cooler was replaced), had a look down the sides of the oil cooler / EGR cooler and there was signs of leakage - I'd previously cleaned this area whilst replacing the oil cooler so it was evidence of a new leak. The only probable cause of the leak is the EGR cooler base gasket, if it was the seal around the crankcase breather outlet, there would be evidence of oil leaking further up, not just in the 'V'.
Anyway, pictures....
Once you've got the wipers, scuttle, bracing bars & radiator finishing trim out of the way, it's essentially the same as the L322
In the above photo, the 'doughnut' is already removed (got carried away and forgot photos!)
Opinions on EGR's are varied, whilst I don't think they have any positive effect on anything, I wouldn't blank & map out - the residue (or lack of it) in this mainly town driving car shows it's not as bad as most would imagine it could be.
There's quite a bit of stuff to move, what I would say is that move everything that'll be in the way, don't fight your way past or through stuff - bungees, straps, even a few sacrificial cable ties will save frustration and cost in replacing broken bits, also be careful what you're leaning on , it's a long way from the front bumper to the back of the EGR!.
This is the EGR actuator, you can see the oil mist and some oil to the right of it on the cooler
Oil never leaks upwards, so it's already looking like the EGR cooler to engine gasket isn't the culprit.
Here's the bracket masking the source of the leak
Underneath it....
Oil cooler removed - drain down the coolant and the oil filter before starting to minimise cross-contamination.
Here's the turbo oil feed, the 'O' rings get brittle & leak, LR only sell them with the pipe.
You can get the correct size in Viton, use red rubber grease to ease them in and prevent dragging
The next part was to split the oil cooler and find out why it was leaking
Fairly conclusive, the gasket wasn't fitted correctly when assembled.
So clean it all up, new gaskets & seals, re-assemble.
Vacuum filling the coolant circuits is always the best way, hold test for 10 mins is also a good leak-check and can also pull in any connections that haven't been fully fitted.
After that, run test, leak check, a good spray with degreaser before washing down with a hose not a jetwash.
On a side note, I always (on my own vehicles) use Nyogel dielectric grease on any engine bay electrical connectors that have been opened after a good blast of brake cleaner & compressed air, not only does it prevent corrosion but it also helps minimise contact fretting.
So not the job I thought it'd be, thankfully I'd ordered every seal & gasket, even though I didn't anticipate having to strip some of them.
With hindsight(!) the continuing smell after the oil cooler replacement that I thought was just existing oil on the insulator was clearly a new leak, replacing the insulation gave me the grace period until it'd soaked through again, it's made worse by lack of visibility in the area where the leak leaves the oil cooler.
