tomhop · Jul 25, 2017

I have not started the engine for 2 years as i have been rebuilding the whole landy from a complete strip down and i dont know how well looked after it was when i got it, i have heard others say they have used a engine cleaner when they first start up their engine's. Is this a good idea and if so does any one recommend a certain brand?

It's a 2 1/4 petrol engine.

thanks in advance

Tony e · Jul 25, 2017

New one on me. Myself if in dought would put a new filter on and run some flushing oil through. Just for extra security take the plugs out for the first fhew cranks to make sure it gets in there before it is under any load

tomhop · Jul 25, 2017

Tony e said:
New one on me. Myself if in dought would put a new filter on and run some flushing oil through. Just for extra security take the plugs out for the first fhew cranks to make sure it gets in there before it is under any load

That's probably the stuff i have heard of, when i took the head off to have a look it looked quite manky in there so thought it would be a good idea to try and get the inside as clean as possible without having to strip the engine.

Stretch · Jul 25, 2017

The interweb is almost awash with horror stories of how engines leak after using internal cleaning solutions - I'm surprised you haven't noticed!

If you've got a long time sitting engine I reckon the best thing to do is to drain the gunky muck you've got. If you are brave enough remove the sump and give it a good scrape - clean with brake cleaner / other external engine cleaners (Gunk seems popular in the UK and is available from easy to get to places like Halfords). Make sure the sump is clean and dry - refit.

Fill the engine with the correct grade engine oil but buy some cheap junk (also available from aforementioned place) and use this for a few days (don't leave it in for a full service interval!). Then drain (now on a hot engine) and put in some decent stuff.

(Seeing as how cheap filters are I'd replace the filter each time)

This is the same approach I have for gearboxes and differentials. Gravity has a really good effect on long sitting machines - heavy muck does in the end settle at the lower points. Removing this muck from the system before spinning everything back up again is advantageous.

tomhop · Jul 25, 2017

Stretch said:
The interweb is almost awash with horror stories of how engines leak after using internal cleaning solutions - I'm surprised you haven't noticed!

If you've got a long time sitting engine I reckon the best thing to do is to drain the gunky muck you've got. If you are brave enough remove the sump and give it a good scrape - clean with brake cleaner / other external engine cleaners (Gunk seems popular in the UK and is available from easy to get to places like Halfords). Make sure the sump is clean and dry - refit.

Fill the engine with the correct grade engine oil but buy some cheap junk (also available from aforementioned place) and use this for a few days (don't leave it in for a full service interval!). Then drain (now on a hot engine) and put in some decent stuff.

(Seeing as how cheap filters are I'd replace the filter each time)

This is the same approach I have for gearboxes and differentials. Gravity has a really good effect on long sitting machines - heavy muck does in the end settle at the lower points. Removing this muck from the system before spinning everything back up again is advantageous.

Thanks Stretch, i did remove the sump and steam cleaned it and fitted a new filter and sump gasket, the outside of the engine got the same treatment as did the head gasket. If what your saying is a popular opinion i will just fill it back up with clean oil and change after a couple hundred miles and repeat if i think its looking filthy! Thanks for your reply.

The engine before half way through and after

Blackburn · Jul 25, 2017

Before starting it remove plugs squirt a little oil in each cylinder then hand crank it to lubricate the bores and rings , still with plugs out turn it over on the starter motor to get the oil pressure up this will get oil all around the engine. Then refit your plugs and go for a start.

tomhop · Jul 25, 2017

Argh f*cking ba**arding fecking stupid cheap piece of f**king junk torque wrench! Set the right torque setting and it's snapped the bolts in the engine block for the flywheel housing!!!! does anyone know the right torque setting in case I got it wrong?

Stretch · Jul 26, 2017

tomhop said:
Argh f*cking ba**arding fecking stupid cheap piece of f**king junk torque wrench! Set the right torque setting and it's snapped the bolts in the engine block for the flywheel housing!!!! does anyone know the right torque setting in case I got it wrong?

Not specified in my book (don't get confused with the given torque for the main bearing end caps!)

Try in here =>

http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/workshop2_engine.pdf

EDIT SPACE ADDED TO HELP HIGHLIGHT LINK!

tomhop · Jul 26, 2017

I think I may have over tightened them then, am I correct in thinking the flywheel should be tightened to 65 lbf ft?

What is it they say about bad workmen and their tools?

kommer2013 · Jul 26, 2017

mmm interesting one

tomhop

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Tony e

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tomhop

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Stretch

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tomhop

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Blackburn

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