Al2O3 · Jul 12, 2014

Hoped to get the engine in today. Couldn't get new nuts for the engine mounts until this morning.
Checked the torque value in the manual. Thought it was 85Nm

Happily tightening it up and getting no where near tight, when it sheared.

Is this the wrong torque setting? It does seem high, but I thought being the engine mount it would have to be?

Anyone know the correct value. It's a Britpart mount.

jamesmartin · Jul 12, 2014

just tighten them up with a spanner its only a 10mm stud

jamesmartin · Jul 12, 2014

knowing when a nut or bolt is tight by feel is a skill diyers should learn

Kwakerman · Jul 12, 2014

jamesmartin said:
knowing when a nut or bolt is tight by feel is a skill diyers should learn

Agreed, however as an aircraft engineer I've had it ingrained to use torque wrenches etc and always do whenever I can (although happy to do it by feel if need be). Hopefully not to many aircraft flying around with major components held on by bolts torqued to two white knuckles!!

jamesmartin · Jul 12, 2014

Kwakerman said:
Agreed, however as an aircraft engineer I've had it ingrained to use torque wrenches etc and always do whenever I can (although happy to do it by feel if need be). Hopefully not to many aircraft flying around with major components held on by bolts torqued to two white knuckles!!

an aircraft is different ,and also more exact in std of parts spec

Kwakerman · Jul 12, 2014

We certainly don't use Britpart standard parts!

Al2O3 · Jul 12, 2014

Happy to have the **** taken, no worries.
However, can anyone be more exact than tighten it with a spanner?

arc · Jul 12, 2014

No. But mine did exactly the same when using torque values.

There you go..

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/engine-rubber-nut-torque-204122.html

jamesmartin · Jul 12, 2014

Al2O3 said:
Happy to have the **** taken, no worries.
However, can anyone be more exact than tighten it with a spanner?

45nm would be about right ,and tightening with a spanner can be quite accurate if you feel for threads just stretching

Al2O3 · Jul 12, 2014

Yeah, my LR manual says 85nm, if I'm reading it correctly. Mine didn't strip the thread tho, the stud twisted and snapped.

Oldseadog · Jul 13, 2014

I agree with James. If you can get the 'feel' for the different sizes and torque values, then I wouldn't be surprised if, without the use of a torque wrench, that the desired values can consistently be achieved.

A number of years ago I won quite a large amount of cash when I was proven to be as accurate, plus or minus one foot pound, as one of the latest digital torque wrenches!

The trouble is now that my muscle memory has not been used in a long time, and I know that the accuracy is no longer there!

As the saying says, "Use it or lose it!" and I have probably lost it!

sp00k · Jul 13, 2014

Al2O3 said:
Yeah, my LR manual says 85nm, if I'm reading it correctly. Mine didn't strip the thread tho, the stud twisted and snapped.

I've also fallen victim to that torque setting. Mine did exactly the same about a year ago - just snapped clean off as I tightened it. I had bought OEM mounts as they are supposed to be best for absorbing vibration. When I fitted them, one snapped, so I had to revert that side to the old mount which was rock hard in comparison and had no give in it at all.

When I get around to it, I'm going to swap out the engine and gearbox mounts on mine as I do get a lot of vibration transmitted through the body.

Mutley1311 · Jul 13, 2014

Looks like its made of monkey metal to be fair, you could just apply lock tight to the stud and do it up until you feel it's tight enough.

Brown · Jul 13, 2014

Nuts and bolts are all a bit different, even if they're nominally the same specification, but I find you can feel that point where they're just starting to stretch as you tighten them. That way you're using the elasticity of the metal to clamp the parts together and stop the fastener coming undone. Where the materials are very hard, such as crown wheel to diff bolts, it's more difficult to do this as there isn't much 'give' in the metals. But that's why they have tab washers to hold them in place.

Dr_evil · Jul 13, 2014

I always have a spring washer and nylock on the engine mounts or any mounts for that matter, didn't know they had an exact torque value and like #### I'm getting my big Britool one in there!

Just go with the 11/16" spanner and watch for the washer compressing, thats about tight then and follow it up with a couple of twists. Never coming off without a helping hand then

Al2O3 · Jul 13, 2014

'monkey metal' is probably about right. The bizarre thing is that the nut got no where near feeling tight before the stud just twisted off.

Dr_evil · Jul 13, 2014

Did you buy all makes or LR mounts ?

I've given up on both anyway, go to my local tractor shop and buy them from there or I solid mount the engines to the chassis

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2014

Al2O3 said:
'monkey metal' is probably about right. The bizarre thing is that the nut got no where near feeling tight before the stud just twisted off.

might be the length of torque wrench, i fitted **** loads and never have an issue

Al2O3 · Jul 13, 2014

Just Britpart ones from local LR specialist

Dr_evil · Jul 13, 2014

Al2O3 said:
Just Britpart ones from local LR specialist

well theres your issue........

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