Yeah, but I`m happy. The old garage I used would have debated this forever instead. The only reason for this taking so long after christmas was waiting time for parts. And two days for testing afterwards. He wanted to be absolutely sure it was in order this time. Got it back a little while ago.
 
And....its back...

The yellow light came back on again today. As well as the car sort of rumbling when going uphill in 40-50mph.

And its now leaking coolant. Just a little. But still..


f***.
 
Rumbling could be a sign of Torque Converter issues....when was the gearbox fluid last changed?

A rumbling could also be a misfire from the engine....also could explain the engine light.

Code reading time!
 
The torque converter was called back some years before I bought it. By Land Rover. I changed all the fluids on the gear box and converter about a year ago, when the gasket between them started leaking. Did the whole flush of the gearbox etc.

The rumbling is not the sort that feels like you are driving on some safety line by the side of the road. its on acceleration when going up hill and it sort of sounds like a bus engine. The fault codes will be read tomorrow. I havent got my diagnonsis-thing to work so going by a mate. The car is probably going back to the garage yet again. probably not a big issue this time. or so I though, until I noticed the coolant leak. No idea where that comes from.
 
Sounds like it could be lock up clutch issues as it is doing it on light acceleration on a hill....

Might pay to drain some gb fluid and see what condition it is in.

Read codes first as it could be an engine issue....

No tell tale coolant marks then? Most common area for hidden coolant leak is the manifold at the rear of the engine
 
Sounds like it could be lock up clutch issues as it is doing it on light acceleration on a hill....

Might pay to drain some gb fluid and see what condition it is in.

Read codes first as it could be an engine issue....

No tell tale coolant marks then? Most common area for hidden coolant leak is the manifold at the rear of the engine

Just a quick question. Having the faul codes read afterwards and the car is probably going back to the garage, but its in another town so its a bit hassle.

When they fixed the head gasket etc, they steam cleaned the engine bay. It had worked perfectly for 2-3 weeks now, but on sunday I cleaned the car. I did not was the engine bay etc, just an outside clean, but the engine troble started the next morning and is rapidly getting worse. Last time the changed one of the VANOS-units, but it seems to be the same trouble all over again. The car has a small tweet/squeak from the front of the engine, on the left hand side by the wheel and is misfiring again.

Could this be related to water some where in the system? Seems strange it being the VANOS all over again?
 
They should never steam clean the engine.....esp. one as electrically complex as the M62..!!!

Check the e-box for signs of water ingress....this is the large box on the lefthand side (as looking at the engine from the front of the car) top is secured with a number of bolts....whip the top off and take a gander....this is where the engine and gearbox ECU sits (I thing the gearbox ECU is in there...anyhoo) but check it and the wiring looms for signs of water....

Also it has been known for coolant to leak past the electrical connector on the thermostat and track up the loom into the e-box causing misfires and running issues....if you are loosing coolant, and getting misfires, it may just be that!
 
They should never steam clean the engine.....esp. one as electrically complex as the M62..!!!

Check the e-box for signs of water ingress....this is the large box on the lefthand side (as looking at the engine from the front of the car) top is secured with a number of bolts....whip the top off and take a gander....this is where the engine and gearbox ECU sits (I thing the gearbox ECU is in there...anyhoo) but check it and the wiring looms for signs of water....

Also it has been known for coolant to leak past the electrical connector on the thermostat and track up the loom into the e-box causing misfires and running issues....if you are loosing coolant, and getting misfires, it may just be that!

Great thanks, but is this the same ebox? Is the coolant following it upwards from the termostat to the ebox?
 
Went by an old LR mechanic today. He is really good with l322. Reckons its a wrongly adjusted vanos. Will take a proper look on thursday
 
Mechanic having a look on the car now. Called me saying it seems to be lambda-related. So will see what he says. Not sure what kinda things could cause lamdba-issues.
 
Last update. Both lambda sensors are off. one very much. both will be changed.

question is: The garage that fixed the car originally did (without asking) a wash of the engine bay. The top gasket was also leaking oil. Can any of this have ruined the sensors? They have been changed before, and I find it strange they would be ruined at once after the car was in the shop.
 
I think this has already been mentioned but the cam covers leak into the spark plug wells and cause misfires and this isn't going to help you but i would be as likely to jet wash under the bonnet of mine as i would be removing the side casing off my pc and jet washing that.

Diagnostics are the key, also making sure all the electrical connections around the engine bay are secure and dry
 
Garage is fixing the sensors. Why i am asking is because i have not payed the other garage yet more than half the bill due to all the trouble. So if its likely that the jet wash or Oil leak could've caused this I will deduct the cost from garage 2 on the bill.
 
Sorry didn't realise how old this thread was and this has all been covered.

The only thing i could think was maybe the lamba sensors were damaged by the head gasket being gone and water leaking into the combustion chamber.

The fact that it has run perfectly a few times since you have had it back does point to a new fault that has developed in my mind.

I suppose if water ingress had caused a misfire and not all the fuel was burnt in the combustion cycle maybe that could ruin your lamba sensors but if its been running ok for a period of time after picking it up then i wouldn't think an under bonnet jetwash would cause problems later on.

Do you still have the oil leak from the cam covers or was that residue from the original leak?

NGK - Damage patterns on lambda sensors
 
To recap for new readers.

1: I had a small head gasket leak. Nothing wrong with how the car ran etc, but discovered it by accident and decided to fix it before it created any damage. But up until then the car had run flawlessly for 10 months.
2: Car was at the garage for close to three weeks. got it back. The next morning the car was running like crap. EML-light flashing and it ran like a boat. It also leaked oil from the valve gaskets into the left side sparkplugs. Used 2-3 times as much fuel as it should. Dumped a of unburned fuel into the
3: Sent it back to the garage. THey concluded with a fawlty Vanos. (the new garage doesn`t believe this was correct but anyways).
4: got it back again. Ran like normal for about 10 days again. Then started to run like last time. This time I put it in a new garage. They concluded with the lamdba sensor for the left side being ruined. Emission was way of on that side, and not good on the right side either.
5: The lambda sensors was changed within 20-30.000 km.

Have asked the new garage to have a good look on the lambda-sensors to se why they were failing.
 
2: Car was at the garage for close to three weeks. got it back. The next morning the car was running like crap. EML-light flashing and it ran like a boat. It also leaked oil from the valve gaskets into the left side sparkplugs. Used 2-3 times as much fuel as it should. Dumped a lot of unburned fuel into the cylinder ??
Did they resolve the oil leak at this stage? this could have killed the lambda sensor


3: Sent it back to the garage. THey concluded with a fawlty Vanos. (the new garage doesn`t believe this was correct but anyways). So they told you it was a faulty vanos and repairing that is what resolved the problem, if so this work should have been guaranteed, you should have taken it back to the same garage ideally when the problem returned but imagine you wanted a second opinion by then.

4: got it back again. Ran like normal for about 10 days again. Then started to run like last time. This time I put it in a new garage. They concluded with the lamdba sensor for the left side being ruined. Emission was way of on that side, and not good on the right side either. Has this now cured the fault and you are now running ok again? The new garage has checked for the oil leak ? You are now concerned that the fault will return after 10 days driving due to the original repair not being carried out properly. if this does happen then it would point towards the original work not being carried out correctly, ie the head gasket is leaking or they have caused another unknown fault by jetwashing the engine that is killing your lambda sensors that your new garage is investigating

5: The lambda sensors was changed within 20-30.000 km.

Have asked the new garage to have a good look on the lambda-sensors to see why they were failing - this will answer your question for you rather than me guessing i guess, once you have this information, you can go back to the original garage armed with the evidence and decide what to pay or not as the case may be

Sorry i cant be of more help, let us know how you get on
 
Well. It turns out it wasn`t the lambda-sensors. After they were replaced the cam shaft sensor-fault came up. The mechanic had a couple lying around so he tried swapping them. still there. His theory is that the timing is adjusted incorrectly and thats why the car is constantly going bad.
 
So where are you going from here, i would have thought that if the timing was out then it wouldn't have run normally at all but these cars do like to keep you guessing?
 

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