robbie the greatl

Active Member
hello landy lads i have a problem before i did injector seals my light came on occasionaly by switching on and off 3 times without letting engine stop put it out ,egr valve sticking i think any way i did injector seals and light never came on for 2 months until during haymaking i let someone drive it collecting odd bales onto trailer in field while i was on tractor i put the landy in low range and told them only to use second gear well during the day light came on and i cant get it to go off ive disconnected the battery and joined leads together still light remains on , one thing happened when i drove landy after when i turned there was a clunk like diff coming out when i turned i dont know if they messed with things drives ok but light still on i suppose i will have to go to garage and have it scanned or has anyone got any ideas
 
You don't say what model you've got, but I'm guessing it's a TD5 - judging by the 'injector seals' comment.

A great many things can cause the yellow engine light to come on. I've had it with an ECU fault, a failed MAF, a fault in the wiring loom between the accelerator pedal (or 'driver demand' as Land Rover call it) and the ECU, oil in the injector loom, and probably a few other things that I've forgotten. The clunk is pretty standard for these things - especially on drive take up. It can indicate something obvious like a loose universal joint on a propshaft (so worth having a look and a wobble) but often it's just rotational slack in the system. I find just being gentle with the cutch is enough, and occasionally replace my drive flanges which cuts it down a bit. On the other hand if it's specific to when you're turning it could indicate wear in the CV joints in the front axle. I tend to find a flat area like an empty car park and drive in a sort of figure eight shape. A bit like the young kids drifting. A worn CV often shows up as a clunking or clicking noise.
 
Thank you for the reply I recently done ujs and swivel joints bearings and discs etc i think the clunk was it was i bit in diff lock but not in firm it hasnt done it since engine light is egr sticking so I’ve ordered a scanner ha that will be an education
 
Yup, it's very difficult living with a TD5 without a diagnostic kit. As I'm sure you know, the TD5 isn't entirely OBD compliant, so there's a limited choice of diagnostic devices available. I've found the Nanocom very useful and carry it in the tool box in the car. I've tried the Britpart Lynx too, which has a nicer interface because it runs on a PC so you can actually tell the difference between 1, i and L. But my impression was that the Nanocom will do more activities.
 

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