D

dantheman4.6

New Member

• Dec 1, 2008

• #1

i have fried the engine on my 4.6 hse 1997

reallly gutted just put 12 month mot on it and tax etc etc, dont know what to do wether to cut my losses or fix?

deciding factor is price. how much should i be looking for secondhand lump and how much to fit? could me and a mate change the lump i mean at what angle could it come out could it come from front of car etc?

really would like any advice.

 

B

brutusmotorsport

Active Member

• Dec 1, 2008

• #2

any competent mecanhic could change the engine tho you will need the manual to do so to keep you on the right track. whats up with 4.6 what you done to it? more detail please.

 

D

dantheman4.6

New Member

• Dec 1, 2008

• #3

i ran it overheated until the thing stopped it will not turn over now just sound like it has no life compression all gone etc wish i had checked the heat stat!

 

B

brutusmotorsport

Active Member

• Dec 1, 2008

• #4

well if youve siezed the bottom end which is more than likely you will need new pistons and liners for a start and if you right in the **** you might of shot the mains as well. so im thinking you not very mechanically minded. so bottom end rebuild at a garage could cost you a 1k easy, more if they wana sticht you up. do you know anyone local to you who knows what they are doin and what area do you live in as somebody on this forum may live near you.

 

D

dantheman4.6

New Member

• Dec 1, 2008

• #5

i live in norwich so very near rpi but i do not want to spend thousnads on a car worth 2k i love the car but would like to get a cheap engine but no one has one and when they do want 1k for lump! IF I COULD GET A SECOND HAND 1 FOR LIKE 5-6 THEN 3-4 TO DROP IT IN IT WOULD BE WORTH IT but not at min what you think.

 

B

brutusmotorsport

Active Member

• Dec 1, 2008

• #6

there is some on ebay but you want to see it running before you buy. to do this the box must be attached because of the starter and a rad for the water. yes i would do the same if mine blew up as well. i love my rangie would be gutted without it. shop around make phone calls as well, talk to people and you never know what comes your way.{gutted for you pal}

 

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

• Dec 2, 2008

• #7

Go with Brutus on this one-to see it running is a must, otherwise you could well finish up in a short while in the same boat. Removal/refit is pretty much straightforward and obviously an engine crane is a must. Some of the bell housing bolts are awkward to get at and it's worth while checking the condition of the flex plate (Flywheel) for cracks, or better still replace it for the sake of around £25 (After market part). Probably find the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts are seized solid-grind them off and fit clinch nuts and stainless M5 socket screws. Guide the engine back in carefully to ensure the gearbox input shaft enters the torque convertor cleanly-do not be over ambitious. Two people + normal toolkit etc.-allow 3 days. Let us know how you get on.

 

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

• Dec 2, 2008

• #8

Forgot to mention that the aircon will need to be degassed as the Condenser has to come out with the radiator. Shouldn't be saying this-but you can do it yourself, wink wink.

 

A

andytlman

New Member

• Dec 2, 2008

• #9

i pulled my engine out without decompressing the air con or removing any radiators or just removed compressor and kept it out of the way just be careful don't always believe rave either you do not have to disconnect the steering to get the exhaust manifold off believe me i have done the job!

 

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

• Dec 2, 2008

• #10

Interesting that you managed to pull the engine clear without disturbing the radiators. Must have been a close thing, I would have thought that £70 for a regass would have been better than the price of a possibly damaged radiator/condenser. Still every man to his own I say. How did you manage to get the heat shields off to get at the manifold studs? I bow to your superior knowledge and expertise

 

B

Beast o Bodmin

Banned

• Dec 2, 2008

• #11

sorry to bump in but if its ****ed then why not DIY and just take the parts to skim etc,way cheap as after all its only nuts and bolts.GO FOR IT.Stage two head?

 

A

andytlman

New Member

• Dec 2, 2008

• #12

Irishrover said:

Interesting that you managed to pull the engine clear without disturbing the radiators. Must have been a close thing, I would have thought that £70 for a regass would have been better than the price of a possibly damaged radiator/condenser. Still every man to his own I say. How did you manage to get the heat shields off to get at the manifold studs? I bow to your superior knowledge and expertise

Click to expand...

The heat shields are a little tricky but a 3/8th drive with uj does the job!
For a living i repair CNC lathes and milling machines and to be honest there are a lot more fiddly things on some of these machines so i am used to tight situations. When i did my engine back in feb i removed the heads first and then decided to pull the motor.On refitting i put the manifolds back on with heat shields. Putting a sheet of thin steel in front of the rad protects the core also it is quite an easy lift i had 1 person on hoist and 2 people guiding the lump no drammer tbh.