Olly_Webb

Olly_Webb

Member
[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]Hi guys, so I was hoping someone could shed some light on my engine.

The whole thing is painted a kind of mint green, and on the rocker cover there is some text which looks a bit like "reserved".

I think this may be out of a military landy but it would be ace to get some pics of what it should look like and also any info on differences between these and the civi engines.

It has the following numbers on the top of the cylinder block 568750 and the number 7 on its own so I believe it is 7:1 compression ratio.

It is 2.25 petrol but that's pretty much all I know.

Cheers. Olly
 

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And if it looks like that photo you're on a winnner! Let's see what the number is? Is it running OK? I'm biased but they are reliable engines if regularly serviced.
 
Hi John, cheers for the reply. There didn't appear to be a mark like the one in your picture on my engine, just one above the manifold - see my picture attached.
 

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Unlike Trigger's broom



/ Granddad's axe, the ID for the engine is always on the block. There's little use in looking at numbers on the cylinder head (at this stage)
 
Olly_Webb said:
Hi John, cheers for the reply. There didn't appear to be a mark like the one in your picture on my engine, just one above the manifold - see my picture attached.
Click to expand...
thats were it should be as in the pic in my post ,might need a light emery to clean it up
 
I would have said 'preserved' - a rebuilt and preserved engine for the military
 
Hi guys, thank you so much for the info. Now I need to find some pictures/details of what it would have looked like in its previous life. Cheers. Olly
 
I've picked up this old post because a big dubt is buzzing around my head! my engine head of a late 1969 Series 2a (2.25 Engine) has a 568750 number marked on his head. It has the rectangular boss but with no 7 or 8 number. I checked wherever, looking for a number, even when I removed the head on the cylinder block surface, but I can't solve the sooty spurk plugs problem, and it runs very bad at idling speed with a very rich mixture, it is working with the Champion n12y because, someone told me that from the engine number it should be an 8.1 but how can I be confident about it?

form an australian website I've found this info:
"568750 and ERC 5899 were made in 7:1 and 8:1 compression. As engines get rebuilt, parts
changed etc, we cannot rely on the engine number to confirm compression ratio"

I know there is an equation to do by calculating the cylinder measurements but I can't reopen the engine just for this....

many thanks
Aaron
 
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Try changing to the 7:1 spark plugs to see if it changes anything.
How are you timing the engine?
Personally I would be slackening the distributor calmp and giving it a tweak to find the sweet spot wher it will run smoothly.
Book figures are not truely relevant now with modern fuels.
 
Blackburn said:
Try changing to the 7:1 spark plugs to see if it changes anything.
How are you timing the engine?
Personally I would be slackening the distributor calmp and giving it a tweak to find the sweet spot wher it will run smoothly.
Book figures are not truely relevant now with modern fuels.
Click to expand...

I suspected so, I've put 6 degrees for a fuel of 96 octane, but I tried to turn the distributor but I dont hear the engine running smoothly....

today I finally found number 8, it couldn't be seen I had to scrape a bit, by now I have rebuilt the whole upper part of the engine, including the carburetor but nothing, I do not solve the problem, I do not think that it is pulling oil from the bottom or the compression is low , the only thing that comes to mind is that I have the exhaust pipe attached to the manifold that is not tight, is there some kind of dome that prevents adherence, maybe it vent and could be the cause?
 
What carb do you have? If you have a Zenith they are know for body warping, causing your symptoms. There are threads on here on how to flat one back. Some Zenith copy carbs aren't very good either, even when new.
 
yes it is equipped with a damn Zenith 36IV with which my father in the 80s had problems and replaced it with a Solex 36IV (the version with the bypass screw), which however gave me problems last year, so having to spend 300 pounds plus the kit to overhaul it from the best specialist in the country, I decided to send the original Zenith into overhaul, which however continued to work badly, perhaps worse from the first moment .... I think that if I managed to fix the carburetor and the exhaust pipe that rests only but does not fit into the manifold, I would solve every problem!
 
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