J

johnfeikens

New Member
hello all,
after buying the freelander yesterday on a auction my biggest problem with this car is the flooding when its idling or starting, i know that just random replacing stuf is stupid so i thought to hear your ideas on this problem;

when cold it will start with mayor difficulty and run horribly idle,after a while it will flood (checked by removing sparkplugs)
when warm i can only start it by pulling the fuelpump fuse until it revs up and putting the fuse back (keeping the engine over 2000rpm otherwise it floods and dies on me)
all this time the engine (warm or cold) runs like its choking.

have done;
sparkplugs, leads and distributor cap+rotor.
removed the temp.sens cable(no difference)
idle speed valve cleaned (no differnce)
removed air temp sensor (no differnce)
cleaned throtle housing and butterfly (no difference)

all help or ideas are welcome:confused:

best regards john
 
he he, it IS a bag of ****.. :hurt:
but that's the fun in it right,why else buy a landrover.
the engine light is not on and ecu seems to be working,unfortunately its not possible now to get the comp read...
 
Have you checked the air filter and air intake system to make sure its not blocked?

Also when checking the coolant temp sensor - remember one is for the gauge (blue plug iirc) and the other is for the ECU. Check the idle air valve to see that it is open when the engine is cold to allow more air in.

I guess also the cat could be blocked.
 
thx for the fast reply,
the airfilter is not blocked and i don't think the cat is either because the exhaust gasses come out freely.
i have only seen 1 coolant sensor and that one is brown and is on the front of the engine under the distributor and coil,mind that i only spend a few hours on her today.
regards john
 
:eek: just read the post you recomended... omg, i might be in for a treat!,i run a small garage here in kgs.lyngby (copenhagen) and am usually not scared of a challenge but it sounds like it could be really everything.

on a brighter note i do remember seeing that the lambda sensor cable near the fitting has a connector in one of the cables,(one of those hobby things,blue and you sqeeze it)
so ill be checking that tomorrow in the lunch break.
regards john
 
did'nt have all that much time today but managed to look in to my flooding problem.

after partly blocking the fuel line with brakeline clamps the car started without me needing to pull the fuse,also it ran way more like i think it should.

was working on the rear window fixing the cable for the e-motor (yup that's also broken but fixed now) and heard this loud humming from the fuel pump,this was without the clamp on and i could feel the floor vibrate,having never owned a landrover i was wondering if that's normal?

also wondered about the fuel rail, on the left end under the pressure valve/dampner there is a stub that has been capped of.(its been capped with a piece of fuel line with a screw on mine)
when the cap is removed fuel comes out and at first it looked like a return fuel line to me but after looking on the net it seems to be capped on all k series.
is it only there for testing purposes or am i missing something ?.

best regards john
 
dear land rover friends, i'm at the end of it now....
i replaced;
fuelpump
clutch
clutch actuator
startermotor
ecu and reprograming
inletmanifold complete
sparkplugs and leads and coil
timingbelt
lambda sond
air, oil and other filters
and more......

in short the only thing left on the car that has not been replaced is the engine block and generator.
i'm at a loss here and realy think this must be the most horible car i have ever seen (and i have seen my share of bad cars believe me)

if there is a golden tip out there i would realy apriciate it, if i dont get it to run in the next two days i'm going to burn it (not kidding,i'll be damned if i sell this peace of **** with a horrible loss)
best regards john
 
Fuel trim on those is only controlled by coolant temp and precat lambda isnt it?


Apart from that, make sure you have a decent spark and timing is correct
 
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