Axis
Member
I was thinking of this one, then I realised you said the right side as well…so yeh, both came off anywayNo problem,
Under the front left wing, remove the plastic arch from inside and there is at least one heavy earth post under there. A client had no radio and a ruined battery with low charge current. The earth had started to heat and burnt its contract. A good sanding down and some copper grease put an end to it.
I would undo all of the earth's you find and treat them all as if they were all crusty!
Axis
Member
Yeah, that’s the plan.
It’s a strange one though, is it not, how when it is synced via OBD it starts and runs normally, shut it down for 5 minutes and it starts again, shut it down for 10 and it cranks but refuses to start?
Have you encountered this issue before with any L322’s? Plus the P1602 fault that reappears upon nonstart…
Three different indie guys have come up stumps so far, and talking to the workshop foreman at the local dealership, well he’s not come across it either.
It’s a strange one though, is it not, how when it is synced via OBD it starts and runs normally, shut it down for 5 minutes and it starts again, shut it down for 10 and it cranks but refuses to start?
Have you encountered this issue before with any L322’s? Plus the P1602 fault that reappears upon nonstart…
Three different indie guys have come up stumps so far, and talking to the workshop foreman at the local dealership, well he’s not come across it either.
Engine ecu low voltage supply...
You could do a wiring diagram to find the ecu live and do a jump lead from good 12v supply and see if this cures the p1602.
You could do a wiring diagram to find the ecu live and do a jump lead from good 12v supply and see if this cures the p1602.
Never assume anything, your getting that by now?
If the battery has lost some of its capacity, the moment you turn the key the Ecu's come and self check their systems. When you do the final turn to start, the starter will bite the battery hard and take a massive chunk of its reserve.
If your battery has a low capacity than required the starter will take its chunk anyway and rob the Ecu's of their reserve and everything does a reset... While the battery is recovering and the alt is in overtime the ecus have a hard time self testing and can have faults caused by the starter basically flicking them on and off...
A good 8hr charge of the battery and then let it sit for an hour or two to let it settle then test it with a battery tester and not just a volt meter.
The volt meter will tell you the batteries volts not its capacity, abattery tester will! if the battery is at half of its capacity along with cold weather it's pooped...
If the battery has lost some of its capacity, the moment you turn the key the Ecu's come and self check their systems. When you do the final turn to start, the starter will bite the battery hard and take a massive chunk of its reserve.
If your battery has a low capacity than required the starter will take its chunk anyway and rob the Ecu's of their reserve and everything does a reset... While the battery is recovering and the alt is in overtime the ecus have a hard time self testing and can have faults caused by the starter basically flicking them on and off...
A good 8hr charge of the battery and then let it sit for an hour or two to let it settle then test it with a battery tester and not just a volt meter.
The volt meter will tell you the batteries volts not its capacity, abattery tester will!
if the battery is at half of its capacity along with cold weather it's pooped... 
Datatek
Well-Known Member
+1 to all of that although my 4 amp smart chargers need 24 hours to fully recharge an MF31-1000Never assume anything, your getting that by now?
If the battery has lost some of its capacity, the moment you turn the key the Ecu's come and self check their systems. When you do the final turn to start, the starter will bite the battery hard and take a massive chunk of its reserve.
If your battery has a low capacity than required the starter will take its chunk anyway and rob the Ecu's of their reserve and everything does a reset... While the battery is recovering and the alt is in overtime the ecus have a hard time self testing and can have faults caused by the starter basically flicking them on and off...
A good 8hr charge of the battery and then let it sit for an hour or two to let it settle then test it with a battery tester and not just a volt meter.
The volt meter will tell you the batteries volts not its capacity, abattery tester will!
That's because we have juicy batteries my mate.+1 to all of that although my 4 amp smart chargers need 24 hours to fully recharge an MF31-1000
I don't know if the immobiliser module is actually part of the engine ecu or not but can it be tested for internal damage?Latest update…sent ecu for swap and data transfer, installed it, no start.
Got mechanic to plug his magic box into it, exactly the same error. P1602, Engine ecu and immobiliser module comms fail.
Ah well, on the bright side, which I know most RR owners are familiar with looking for, it’s pretty much ruled out the engine ecu…
And so deeper we go…
Found this on another thread from @Saint.V8 which may show if the immobiliser is on or off (ignore the irrelevant bits). Don't remember seeing anything in this thread re immobiliser and I CBA reading it all again
The clicking when the key gets close to the ignition barrel indicates the immobiliser is indeed registering the correct key and allowing the steering lock to disengage and allow the engine to start.
On the L322 there is no EKA (Emergency Key Access) code that can be used (the turning of the key in the door lock to a prescribed set of numbers etc).
What condition is the battery in? does it have and hold a good charge? Range Rover - the L322 in particular - love a good strong battery, even a drop of half a volt can cause the car havoc!
The little fan continuing to run is normal - well I say normal, it does run on after ignition off, but should turn off after a few minutes.
There is a bonnet switch, just keep looking it is on the back of the engine bay!! This has been known to set the alarm off at stupid o'clock in the morning.
The L322 does suffer from dodgy ignition switch contacts....they tend to go south and only allow less than 9V through which isn't enough for the ECU's to power up and do stuff.....maybe whipping this out and checking could be done. As I say, the fact the steering column lock disengages means there is nothing wrong with the immobiliser or alarm system.
The clicking when the key gets close to the ignition barrel indicates the immobiliser is indeed registering the correct key and allowing the steering lock to disengage and allow the engine to start.
On the L322 there is no EKA (Emergency Key Access) code that can be used (the turning of the key in the door lock to a prescribed set of numbers etc).
What condition is the battery in? does it have and hold a good charge? Range Rover - the L322 in particular - love a good strong battery, even a drop of half a volt can cause the car havoc!
The little fan continuing to run is normal - well I say normal, it does run on after ignition off, but should turn off after a few minutes.
There is a bonnet switch, just keep looking it is on the back of the engine bay!! This has been known to set the alarm off at stupid o'clock in the morning.
The L322 does suffer from dodgy ignition switch contacts....they tend to go south and only allow less than 9V through which isn't enough for the ECU's to power up and do stuff.....maybe whipping this out and checking could be done. As I say, the fact the steering column lock disengages means there is nothing wrong with the immobiliser or alarm system.
Axis
Member
Yeh, all of this has been checked numerous times now.
The car is currently at the dealership…they are grasping at straws at this point, telling me they think it’s the door lock module and are wanting to replace it at a cost of $1250+ nzd. When I asked if this will %100 fix the issue, they couldn’t/wouldn’t say.
Have told them to hold off until I can go and see them next week.
Thought they were the experts…
The car is currently at the dealership…they are grasping at straws at this point, telling me they think it’s the door lock module and are wanting to replace it at a cost of $1250+ nzd. When I asked if this will %100 fix the issue, they couldn’t/wouldn’t say.
Have told them to hold off until I can go and see them next week.
Thought they were the experts…
They are, at replacing disks and pads and some of the light duty stuff. Sometimes engine and gearbox replacements are done but not a lot of follow up work on older vehicles... We were told this by landrover here in Angoulême France...Yeh, all of this has been checked numerous times now.
The car is currently at the dealership…they are grasping at straws at this point, telling me they think it’s the door lock module and are wanting to replace it at a cost of $1250+ nzd. When I asked if this will %100 fix the issue, they couldn’t/wouldn’t say.
Have told them to hold off until I can go and see them next week.
Thought they were the experts…
Hopefully that's not a conversation you should be havingWondering what their response will be when I tell them if their new part/s don’t fix it, put the old one back in ‘cause I won’t be paying for it…
Axis
Member
For anyone still listening/watching…update:
Just brought the old girl home from the dealers, they’ve given up.
They resynced the ems to everything else so it would start and get me home.
Did an experiment when I got home, turned the key back on after switching engine off, then with a trickle charger connected to the battery, left it for around 40 minutes, after which time it would normally not start, turned the key and away it went.
Whether or not I’ve got closer to fixing the issue remains to be seen, but possibly a constant supply of power to somewhere is not happening like it should be…? Will consult wiring diagrams and go fishing.
Just brought the old girl home from the dealers, they’ve given up.
They resynced the ems to everything else so it would start and get me home.
Did an experiment when I got home, turned the key back on after switching engine off, then with a trickle charger connected to the battery, left it for around 40 minutes, after which time it would normally not start, turned the key and away it went.
Whether or not I’ve got closer to fixing the issue remains to be seen, but possibly a constant supply of power to somewhere is not happening like it should be…? Will consult wiring diagrams and go fishing.
