Latest on p38.

Had BeCM unlocked by Rick last year and all was well. Did as he suggested and only used key to open/lock. Had a few issues with mechanism freezing in Winter-I could unlock drivers door but central locking would not operate and turn off immobiliser. Fine when temp warmed up. Last week went to Newport-on the way the locks started chattering-open and close every 30 secs or so. I've had this occasionally over the years but only unlocking/locking once or twice. Parked up, locked ok and went to get ticket. Put key into lock on return and again no central locking activating-engine disabled. Had to be recovered-first time in 11.5 years so not too bad. Had a look when I got home, door initially would lock but not open. This stopped however. Changed the door lock for a known good one and still the same-no life at all. What I did notice was that boot did not lock-all other doors except for divers are superlocked. also noticed today that the fuel elesae will not work-and it appears this is on the same fuse as the rear doors-fuse ok. Any advice greatly appreciated. I think it's now time to get rid-better if it is running I suppose. I've had it 11.5 years and 3 breakdowns-2 of which were at home. Not too bad.

Steve
 
I think someone else had an issue with the petrol filler release button that caused some unexpected issues. Might have been @tomcat59alan ?
 
The locks jumping up and down is a classic sign that the door latch microswitches are faulty/on the way out.

If it's had a bit of a hissy fit, then you will now need to enter the EKA code to get it running again. Classic sign of needing the EKA is having the other doors all locked except the drivers door, as that will unlock manually with the key. As long as the CDL switch is working properly, then the tailgate will lock/unlock as it uses the CDL microswitch as a ground for the unlocking motor in the tailgate.

I would check that the replacement latch you have fitted is 100% working with the microswtiches... I had one just this last weekend that was locked out, wouldn't start, EKA wouldn't enter properly in the drivers door. I was expecting to have to pull the BECM and hook it up to the faultmate and reset it, but luckily it wasn't locked down that far, and it was recoverable with my Nanocom. I diagnosed that the door latch had a faulty Door Ajar switch, AND faulty key switch - so even though it was showing up as being locked/unlocked properly, the BECM wasn't detecting that the key was being turned in the lock. This stopped it from being possible to enter EKA in the door, sync the keys etc.

He brought it to me yesterday, and I fitted a recon door latch, and everything now works as it should, including being able to resync the fobs.

Moral of the story... door latches seem to cause probably 60% of locking/EKA issues I see on P38's. The next biggest chunk is from batteries going flat whilst the vehicle is locked/alarmed.
 
Many thanks again Mart, (you gave me some very good advice last year).

I'll check the door switches with my meter. It was working when I took it off my car last year as I was recommended to change it after my BeCM was unlocked even though it was working ok.

Initially when I parked up, it would not unlock the other doors, it was locking then it all went dead-so put the other door latch on and again nothing.

It is detecting when the door is opened as sunroof not set is coming up-another previous issue!
I'll have a look.

Regards Steve
 
The vehicle is in a state now where it needs the EKA entered to get it back to working as it should. Either that needs to be done via the drivers door, or if it's a later model (with BECM software V36 or above) then it can be done using diagnostics.

The only reason I mention to double check the door latch is that if you are going to be trying the EKA in the door lock, then it's handy to know that all the switches are working properly! It's always more of a pain to find out after numerous failed EKA attempts that one microswitch is intermittent or totally faulty!
 
I think someone else had an issue with the petrol filler release button that caused some unexpected issues. Might have been @tomcat59alan ?
Yup it was me, I checked the earth point behind the r/h boot panel,see photo and ended up changing the tailgate button, it was fecked.
 

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+1 for faulty drivers door latch switches. Mine would NOT enter EKA via the key and would do a lot of doorlock cycling as I drove along. Changed the latch and all is now good.
 
I just having a very similar if slightly diffrent issue....
N.b. it will not let you enter EKA code if boot or bonnet or doors are open... My tail gate open switch was crap telling BECM that tail was open when it was shut.
Short the wires to stop this (if indeed it is the issue) - ive always found not accepting EKA is because of somthing open!
Symptoms are when you do that first 4 locks to engage EKA mode all locks should lock and stay locked from there on untill you compleat sequence and then pop all locks should open - if they all turn each time the key changes direction while entering code - its not working!
Please see this image - it may be of use (it may not)...
https://ibb.co/fUbmVJ
 

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