hi I ve been having problems with my 2000 p38 petrol. one morning went to start car and engine is disabled. tried pressing unlock button on fob-nothing. tried entering eka code manually-nothing. tried charging battery and repeating this-nothing. even rang aa out of desperation they had no clue. could someone please help I ve ran out ideas.

PM mozz smith, he's making this his life's work.

does it lock on the fob? check the ignition barrel, see if it is coming all the way out. sometimes they stick and it disables the car. did it on mine until i cleand it with some graphite. dont use WD40!

the fob does nt lock or unlock the car anymore i have to open manually. the key does nt stick in the ignition barrel. I have a feeling the problem lies with the fobs but cant be sure

Sounds like the standard RF rxer issue. If you do not have the latest rxer i suggest you disconnect the antena wire. She will likely start after a few minutes.

Did the AA try & resync your fobs back to the car.

You have to be very precise in entering the EKA code, starting with the four turns towards the back of the vehicle to enter the EKA mode, then proceed with the code.

where would i find the antenna wire to disconnect it. I ve tried loads of times doin the eka code no luck there lads.

A similar thing happened with mine (a DSE) on the first night after bringing it home from buying it in Yorkshire.

Tried all sorts of things and in the end called Durham 4x4 who linked it up to his Autologic and found the BECM had lost all the settings from the ECU, etc. It was trying to say it was French, petrol, manual instead of UK, diesel, automatic.

They tried resetting the correct ECU codes and the settings and the BECM would not store them. Ended up having to buy a replacement BECM with locks/keys and Durham 4x4 fit them.

marcmiller said:

where would i find the antenna wire to disconnect it. I ve tried loads of times doin the eka code no luck there lads.

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It is under the Rear Seat Latching Point plastic cover (by the quarter light) can't remember which side, drivers I think, there is a little blue wire leading to the ariel which is imprinted into the rear quarter light.

dogsbody said:

PM mozz smith, he's making this his life's work.

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ha ha ha well said doggo its only cos im retired or (retarded) that ive got f*** all else better to do but i enjoy helpin the lads out ,,i have now managed to get 72 out of the **** ...cheers mozz:flame::flame::flame:

hi mac check your private messages ,,cheers mozz

I ll disconnect it tommorow and see if i have any luck. cheers m8 appreciate it.

Might need you to make that 73 !!
Can you do anything when you dont have the EKA code ?
The AA just brought it back tried both keys (both have nice bright red light) but doing nothing .

tacr2man said:

Might need you to make that 73 !!
Can you do anything when you dont have the EKA code ?
The AA just brought it back tried both keys (both have nice bright red light) but doing nothing .

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No EKA means a trip to your local dealer with you V5 and BOTH parts of driving licence. then they will give it you FOC. or should.

Got the EKA code and put it in , and it started OK

But still wont respond to key buttons (on either key and both are flashing the red light when pushed) , so is next step hook up to testbook or similar ?

give Mozz a call, he'll sort it

tacr2man said:

Got the EKA code and put it in , and it started OK

But still wont respond to key buttons (on either key and both are flashing the red light when pushed) , so is next step hook up to testbook or similar ?

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Keys have lost sync or the RF receiver has failed and maybe burnt your locks

Good Morning, I recently went through the exact same thing. I have a 95 se that i thought was immobilized or the ecu was not communicating with the becm. After continuous research and 10 days of trying things...
I finnally got her started (thanks to datatek & mozz who posted on a past thread)

So, to give a lil back story......
I did everything you did..... with no luck at all
I changed my fob battery.. no luck or light on the fob
I changed the truck battery.. no luck
I entered the generic eka (1515).. no luck
I tried the positionII and battery disconect.. no luck

I have a 99 4.6 as well that has had the the alarm and central locking removed (how i dont know, purchased it that way); i took the key pad and battery back off of the 99 and put them on the 95 key. Now my my (the 95) remote lights up with no problem & key batt low message is gone. (the keypad was worn and the batt connector was a little loose; now firm and perfect)

I go to the truck resync the key and try to start.... NO LUCK!!
I removed my battery and put it in the 99.. the 99 started right up; so i knew the battery was fine...
Replaced the battery, set the windows & LOCKED THE DOORS tried to start.
I got the 'engine disabled press remote mess'.. pressed remote tried to start. no luck. Took key out of ignition and tried again.. This time i recieved the alarm triggered, ignition tampered message. That message was new, and remember reading something about the ignition

I pulled out my laptop and remembered reading a comment by datatek and mozz.
I go to a past thread and read to go under hood and check the 30 amp fuse in slot 2.. and to switch the relay from number 16

YUP YOU KNOW IT.. Fuse was good. Relay was brown at 2 points. I switched it with the air susupension relay since i converted her to coil, turned the key and VRRRRRM..
switched it back to make sure.. nothing just a click in the door and under passanger seat.
Switched them back... PERFECT..
I got in the truck.. LOCKED THE DOORS WITH KEY FOB, attempted to start. got message, hit button, turned key, VRRRRRM. She started right up.

Ive read that the relays can immulate becm conditions. Ive oredered a new relay kit from AB..

LONG STORY SHORT... HAVE YOU CHECKED YOUR RELAYS?
Thanks to datatek and Mozz; my rangie is rovering...

Yeah, it is the drivers side. I covered my receiver in tinfoil as per Nick-The-Geek and it seems to work.

I think using the key all the times seems to lead to loss of synch. Sure that's what did mine. I've no idea how or why this should be the case. It shouldn't matter!

Grrrrrr said:

Yeah, it is the drivers side. I covered my receiver in tinfoil as per Nick-The-Geek and it seems to work.

I think using the key all the times seems to lead to loss of synch. Sure that's what did mine. I've no idea how or why this should be the case. It shouldn't matter!

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Loss of FOB sync is inevitable if you use the key all the time, the rolling code changes on every lock/unlock cycle. Covering the RF receiver in tin foil may reduce the pick up of spurious RF signals but it won't stop your locks burning when the receiver finaly fails