DollyBird
Member
Hi y’all
- when needed a tow for eas fault (now fixed), rac driver opened the keys and was messing with them, i asked him not to but he wouldn’t listen he said he had to run through his checklist ;( …he said there were loose metal pieces inside both keys. Key 1 he said the metal piece (see arrow) is missing so that one is not working at all
- all key batteries had good life
- he put Key 2 back together in a hack job and it worked ok with the remote buttons working and car starting fine
- yesterday went to start the car and Key 2 would not work to open the doors (no red light coming on), buttons not working, unlocked the car and it wouldn’t start, went out and used the eka code method in the car door, it worked and the car started
- got home and sat in the car for 10 min with the key out and car unlocked while on phone. got out locked the car w/key
- this morning was prepared to do the same eka code in door and it worked to open all doors but this time engine wouldn’t start (and cannot press button on remote because remote doesn’t work)
- then tried grrrr’s guide “Re-synching the Range Rover P38 diesel engine with the BECM using a Nanocom” but the correct immobilization code was already in there (the eka code wasn’t so i put that in but i’m not sure if i have the right version becm bc the version number is smudged off)
- in nanocom also tried BECM/Utility/Disarm with eka code that didn’t work
- then in Alarm i tried to disable the immobilizer, eka and alarm and that put it into ‘diagnostics mode’ so i changed them all back to enabled except alarm and “write setting” but it was still showing diagnostics mode on the dash until i tried “disarm” again, it didn’t work but it got rid of the diagnostics mode
1) just trying to get to work tomorrow, was planning to order a new key from Les but any help to start the car in the short term would be much appreciated
2)in terms of the keys (please see picture)
- does anyone know if the metal clip in Key 2 is in the right place (this is how the rac driver put it in) this is the piece missing from the Key 1, seems like it’s not touching the top of the battery when it closes and no idea what its supposed to touch on the other side…i think if i can fix this i can push the remote button when the dash asks for that, that was working yesterday
- is the little rubber thing missing from key 2 important?
Somehow i guess sitting in the car with the key out of the ignition and doors unlocked messed things up
Thanks a bunch ~ dolly
- when needed a tow for eas fault (now fixed), rac driver opened the keys and was messing with them, i asked him not to but he wouldn’t listen he said he had to run through his checklist ;( …he said there were loose metal pieces inside both keys. Key 1 he said the metal piece (see arrow) is missing so that one is not working at all
- all key batteries had good life
- he put Key 2 back together in a hack job and it worked ok with the remote buttons working and car starting fine
- yesterday went to start the car and Key 2 would not work to open the doors (no red light coming on), buttons not working, unlocked the car and it wouldn’t start, went out and used the eka code method in the car door, it worked and the car started
- got home and sat in the car for 10 min with the key out and car unlocked while on phone. got out locked the car w/key
- this morning was prepared to do the same eka code in door and it worked to open all doors but this time engine wouldn’t start (and cannot press button on remote because remote doesn’t work)
- then tried grrrr’s guide “Re-synching the Range Rover P38 diesel engine with the BECM using a Nanocom” but the correct immobilization code was already in there (the eka code wasn’t so i put that in but i’m not sure if i have the right version becm bc the version number is smudged off)
- in nanocom also tried BECM/Utility/Disarm with eka code that didn’t work
- then in Alarm i tried to disable the immobilizer, eka and alarm and that put it into ‘diagnostics mode’ so i changed them all back to enabled except alarm and “write setting” but it was still showing diagnostics mode on the dash until i tried “disarm” again, it didn’t work but it got rid of the diagnostics mode
1) just trying to get to work tomorrow, was planning to order a new key from Les but any help to start the car in the short term would be much appreciated
2)in terms of the keys (please see picture)
- does anyone know if the metal clip in Key 2 is in the right place (this is how the rac driver put it in) this is the piece missing from the Key 1, seems like it’s not touching the top of the battery when it closes and no idea what its supposed to touch on the other side…i think if i can fix this i can push the remote button when the dash asks for that, that was working yesterday
- is the little rubber thing missing from key 2 important?
Somehow i guess sitting in the car with the key out of the ignition and doors unlocked messed things up
Thanks a bunch ~ dolly
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