OK, so I put it all back together on Monday. Everything seemed fine until I went any distance. Runs, starts and idles fine. However, if I drive about 10 miles in a single journey the engine loses power and cuts out. It starts again after about 5 seconds on the key and is then is fine for about another 10 miles. I'm suspecting an air leak somewhere but why is it fine for such a distance?

I've dropped the tank again, just enough to check my connections. There was a lot of air in the fuel line from the housing to the engine when idling but not any more. No obvious leaks visible.

Any ideas please?
 
OK, so I put it all back together on Monday. Everything seemed fine until I went any distance. Runs, starts and idles fine. However, if I drive about 10 miles in a single journey the engine loses power and cuts out. It starts again after about 5 seconds on the key and is then is fine for about another 10 miles. I'm suspecting an air leak somewhere but why is it fine for such a distance?

I've dropped the tank again, just enough to check my connections. There was a lot of air in the fuel line from the housing to the engine when idling but not any more. No obvious leaks visible.

Any ideas please?

I know it may sound daft but you have got the lines on the correct sides on the lift pump i take it. Pressure to left return to right looking forwards.
 
Yes, checked and double checked. Would it still run if they were the wrong way around?

Maybe not it was a wild thought, but dafter things have happened. Can't think of a reason it would run for ten miles then stop and restart. Unless you have a quantity control servo fault. Does it stop from idle or when pulling up at lights? Maybe some good diag would help you.
 
Maybe not it was a wild thought, but dafter things have happened. Can't think of a reason it would run for ten miles then stop and restart. Unless you have a quantity control servo fault. Does it stop from idle or when pulling up at lights? Maybe some good diag would help you.
It just cuts out when driving at the normal 2000rpm. I feel a slight hesitation in the power and then about 100 metres later the engine dies.
 
It just cuts out when driving at the normal 2000rpm. I feel a slight hesitation in the power and then about 100 metres later the engine dies.

Diag may help you if it's a pump problem. You would be guessing for the rest of the year otherwise. Sounds like its running out of fuel you need to find out why. If it wasn't doing it before it's odds on something you have done.
 
Diag may help you if it's a pump problem. You would be guessing for the rest of the year otherwise. Sounds like its running out of fuel you need to find out why. If it wasn't doing it before it's odds on something you have done.
It did do it before but after about a quarter of a mile not 10. That is how this episode started back in December when I had to be recovered by me within sight of my house.
If the sealing ring that screws onto the tank to secure the lift pump wasn't sealing properly would it produce these symptoms?
 
It did do it before but after about a quarter of a mile not 10. That is how this episode started back in December when I had to be recovered by me within sight of my house.
If the sealing ring that screws onto the tank to secure the lift pump wasn't sealing properly would it produce these symptoms?

Sealing ring on tank just stops fuel leaking when it is sloshing about. Diagnostics is first port of call as i have said. If you have fitted a new lift pump and new fuel lines and you have no air in system. It maybe an injection pump problem. Fuel cut off solenoid maybe dropping out. I don't know my crystal ball is away for service. ;);)
 
Sealing ring on tank just stops fuel leaking when it is sloshing about. Diagnostics is first port of call as i have said. If you have fitted a new lift pump and new fuel lines and you have no air in system. It maybe an injection pump problem. Fuel cut off solenoid maybe dropping out. I don't know my crystal ball is away for service. ;);)
OK thanks :-D
 
Sorted. Dropped the tank, changed the fuel pipes again with a smaller internal diameter and therefore a tighter fit. Runs fine now, went for a 25 mile test with no issues.


Until I left work and the engine was disabled. Key fob battery message on dash, walked to Tesco to get new batteries, no joy, tried resynching fob, still had message, walked home to get spare main battery, carried it half a mile back to the RR, changed batteries, no key fob message but keycode lockout, went for a walk came back, EAC entered, no joy, tried resynching, no joy. After 4 hours of trying to leave work I gave up but I've had another idea, so I'll finish my coffee have a smoke and then I'll walk back and try again.
Oh, and the OS sidestep broke when I stepped on it....
 
Bugger just when you think your winning they strike back at you, I am sure they are alive:D:D:D
Problem solved, if only I'd looked in the handbook in the glovebox...... :oops::(

Good news is the trailer electrics work which is what I was going to check 6 hours ago. If you see a P38 towing a six foot long marine ply box trailer on Friday heading South to Devon on Friday 'tis me! :D
 
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