J

Joems

Member
hello all, whilst driving my defender 90 td5 along the motorway trying to reach 70mph, my engine would cut out and the eml would light up. i have had this problem for ages and have spent a hefty amount of money trying to solve it however i still cant seem the crack down on the issue

Things i have done:
new injectors (as apparently the old ones failed the test)
new startermotor
new fuel pump
new genuine crank sensor and spacer(ran a new loom from the ecu plug to cps just incase the wiring loom was knackered)
new fuel temp sensor
new boost hoses(however was quite a bit of oil in it so a new turbo might be the next thing to purchase)
new fuel filter, air filter, cleaned map, maf
made sure that the wastegate valve was not stuck(will test pressure on it with compressor soon)
all earths have been extensively cleaned
new injector loom, also checking for oil creep in the plug
new fuel filter valve

i suppose with the help of a nanocom, i could see if it was boosting properly. if so what would the correct pressure be?

Any help will be much appreciated
 
tottot said:
So you wait a bit and then it goes again? if so likely an ecu issue, common enough.
Click to expand...
+1
Was a spacer fitted to the old crank Sensor?
Set Boost pressure with Nanocom to 1.2bar max.
 
Last edited:
Joems said:
hello all, whilst driving my defender 90 td5 along the motorway trying to reach 70mph, my engine would cut out and the eml would light up. i have had this problem for ages and have spent a hefty amount of money trying to solve it however i still cant seem the crack down on the issue

Things i have done:
new injectors (as apparently the old ones failed the test)
new startermotor
new fuel pump
new genuine crank sensor and spacer(ran a new loom from the ecu plug to cps just incase the wiring loom was knackered)
new fuel temp sensor
new boost hoses(however was quite a bit of oil in it so a new turbo might be the next thing to purchase)
new fuel filter, air filter, cleaned map, maf
made sure that the wastegate valve was not stuck(will test pressure on it with compressor soon)
all earths have been extensively cleaned
new injector loom, also checking for oil creep in the plug
new fuel filter valve

i suppose with the help of a nanocom, i could see if it was boosting properly. if so what would the correct pressure be?

Any help will be much appreciated
Click to expand...
So put us out of our misery, what was it ?
 
Tim4x4 said:
+1
Was a spacer fitted to the old crank Sensor?
Set Boost pressure with Nanocom to 1.2bar max.
Click to expand...
no their wasnt one before. however i replaced the flywheel with a lof one so im unsure if im now ment to add a spacer or not? nicked the ckp off my dads one with a spacer and still no joy.
 
tom1979 said:
So put us out of our misery, what was it ?
Click to expand...
its still at the garage. they are struggling to sort it out aswell. im now wondering if maybe the bearings on the crank have gone leading to excessive play in the shaft leading to the crank sensor shutting the ecu off?? lost for ideas on this head scratcher. i do get the error code of high speed crank logged on he nanocom so surely its to do with that?
 
Joems said:
no their wasnt one before. however i replaced the flywheel with a lof one so im unsure if im now ment to add a spacer or not? nicked the ckp off my dads one with a spacer and still no joy.
Click to expand...
Very few require a spacer. A small number of bellhouses were machined incorrectly (too much material removed), not wanting to scrap them LR decided to add a shim (to make up the deficit). In true LR style no identification was stamped on the offending units. So don't add one if yours was previously running OK without a shim.
 
Tim4x4 said:
Very few require a spacer. A small number of bellhouses were machined incorrectly (too much material removed), not wanting to scrap them LR decided to add a shim (to make up the deficit). In true LR style no identification was stamped on the offending units. So don't add one if yours was previously running OK without a shim.
Click to expand...
what do you recon the next step is to do then. had a donor ecu from a d2 td5 with defender map on and still has the same issue. starting the think its ore mechanical now. do the cranks tend to float on td5s? starting to think it could be excessive movement in the flywheel which triggers the crank sensor to cut the engine out
 
Unlikely to be flywheel issue. The flywheel has a series of holes which when they pass the sensor interrupt the magnetic field causing a change in the electrical current to tell the ECU to get some fuel into them cylinders.

Did you check with a Nanocom the maximum Boost pressure? What is it.

Have you checked for holes in the small bore pipe from the wastegate actuator to the turbo hose? A hole will cause over boost.

Is there an aftermarket boost control valve fitted? (It fits in the above pipe.) These are not everyone's cup of tea but some fit them.

Have you given it a motorway run whilst using the Nanocom to analyse the live reading's?

Check the ECU plugs both plugs to the ECU, are each making a good contact with the ECU pins? (Maybe close the female part a little to be sure of the conection but be gentle with them they are easily damaged.)
 
Last edited:
Tim4x4 said:
Unlikely to be flywheel issue. The flywheel has a series of holes which when they pass the sensor interrupt the magnetic field causing a change in the electrical current to tell the ECU to get some fuel into them cylinders.

Did you check with a Nanocom the maximum Boost pressure? What is it.

Have you checked for holes in the small bore pipe from the wastegate actuator to the turbo hose? A hole will cause over boost.

Is there an aftermarket boost control valve fitted? (It fits in the above pipe.) These are not everyone's cup of tea but some fit them.

Have you given it a motorway run whilst using the Nanocom to analyse the live reading's?

Check the ECU plugs both plugs to the ECU, are each making a good contact with the ECU pins? (Maybe close the female part a little to be sure of the conection but be gentle with them they are easily damaged.)
Click to expand...
Didnt check with nanaocom put had put new waste gate actuator along with a new pipe on it with about 20 or so threads on it and even blanked the egr to see if that had any effect. Also changed the potentiometer out with another td5 to no result. AA and landy mechanic both recon its definitely not overboosting. Might have a go at maybe adjusting the spacings of the crank sensor from the fly wheel. Ive bought so many cps sensors now some with metal shaving on, some without. No aftermarket boost control valve fitted to my knolwedge. Havent been able to get it out on a motorway with the nanocom however it would get to around 65mph then it would cut out. Would have to stop turn the key and start all over again. Fiddled with the pins of the plugs when i ran an overlay cable to the cps and made sure they were all fit.
Starting to run out of ideas! have a spare td5 might just throw it in if i cant get this one sorted
 
Hi, if with two different ECUs the symptom and fault code is the same and the crank sensor and it's wiring were 100% ruled out then IMO the problem is mechanical but i cant guess what can it be especially if it was so from the beginning without knowing the full history of the vehicle

unless there is some other wiring issue in the main harness which would cause such thing due to a power loss or bad earth to the ECU
 
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