Hi Guys, I own a 2014 Freelander 2, which is keyless. It is automatic. When it so chooses this vehicle refuses to start the engine when the start button is pushed, but simply swings the speedo and rev counter needles across the dials before returning to their start positions and makes an audible click. This can happen several times, but not to be beaten by the beast, I have discovered that by moving the gear shift between P and N, it will, after several goes, start the engine. I might add that I keep the brake pedal depressed throughout all of the operation. This is the second Freelander that I have owned with this problem, and I have heard of others doing the same. I have taken the vehicle to specialist Land Rover garages, but they have failed to resolve the problem. Have any of you guys with Freelander's encountered something similar? Thanks in anticipation.
Alteredtech
Well-Known Member
Hi
Start stop engine ?
No it's not a feature of the car, the car should start on the button.
Change the battery if it has more than 4 or 5 years.
No fault codes ?
Does the engine start on the button when at tempeture ?
Does the start stop is working ?
Start stop engine ?
No it's not a feature of the car, the car should start on the button.
Change the battery if it has more than 4 or 5 years.
No fault codes ?
Does the engine start on the button when at tempeture ?
Does the start stop is working ?
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Alteredtech
Well-Known Member
If they can't fix a 10 year old standard diesel car ... they are certainly specialist, but certainly not car specialists.
AllanWorms
Well-Known Member
Did anyone check any basics? Is the click from the starter solenoid? or a relay?
Hook a buzzer up to the starter motor, and if it buzzes, but doesn't start, the system is working and the starter is faulty. Work you way back through the system using the wiring diagram, until you find the fault.
It could easily just be a relay too.
Hook a buzzer up to the starter motor, and if it buzzes, but doesn't start, the system is working and the starter is faulty. Work you way back through the system using the wiring diagram, until you find the fault.
It could easily just be a relay too.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Also make sure the Battery terminals and any nuts on any of the wiring are on tight
freelanderguy99
Member
True.
If u drive car on low RPM (1000-1700) it can cause huge battery draining. Try figuring out to start car somehow and take it for a drive at higher speeds, so alternator could charge the battery. At lower RPMs, alternator almost isn’t recharging battery because of low engine revolutions which causes belt to be circulating slower.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
That's assuming the car hasn't turned off the alternator.
I have a dickens of a job trying to get vans to charge the battery (when its stationary) even when they are not 100% SOC.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Switch on some electrical items to load it, creating demand, if yer fink the alternater is having a nap.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Yeh, its quite funny.
You'd think the headlights would do the job, but nah.
Headlights and fan blower on highest, nah.
The thing that I've found has the best chance of pumping some amps is to turn on the wipers, but not guaranteed.
These are mainly VW Crafters.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Measured ma hippo some years ago. Lights and seat heaters dun't take much. The electric heater took a fair bit of power. FL2. Stationary on tickover you can get to 90 amps if putting everything on. Battery was low but only took around 10 to 12 amps. They saturate when charging so don't take much.
Thank you for all your comments guys. All noted, and being followed up. I will let you know how things pan out as I know there will be others out there, who will get the same problem. Just at the moment she is behaving herself, and I am loath to mess about with her, but I am sure her mood will change soon.
