An empty shell is not a fob in my mind so whe you said you bought a new fob i thought about the whole thing ... if that fob is a D2 one and you have the problem you described it means the passive coil is gone.
The car came with two keys both of which worked fine. Then first one then the other had the flexible plastic bits on the fobs go, so I pushed the microswitch with whatever I had to hand as my fingers are too big, and they carried on working. then I did what I said earlier. After what you said I'll try the other key where all the works are still in one key and see if this does the same thing as the other one does, then let you know and you can tell me what is up with it.
 
I have bridged the perpendicular cavities in the fusebox and it is still not starting...
......what about the inertia switch plug? .... i think you didnt listen or i'm speking in vain ? read again may first feply but try to concentrate on my advices.. or knock yourself out
 
......what about the inertia switch plug? .... i think you didnt listen or i'm speking in vain ? read again may first feply but try to concentrate on my advices.. or knock yourself out

Calm down @sierrafery
You're a valuable asset, and trust me, a whole bunch of us really appreciate the treasure trove of knowledge that you are, but we all dont know the innards of our discos like you do and sometimes do get sidetracked a bit in our attempts to follow your council. You may not realise it, but you sometimes sound a bit mean when addressing some of the responses and although it may appear justified to you on account of you thinking your advice is not being taken, I believe its uncalled for.
Just my two cents, and apologies if this rubs off the wrong way on ya.
Cheers.
 
Tried to take off the cover to the engine to get to the injector harness and first two bolts I loosened snapped off... I have now deemed the car un-driveable until I replace the bolts on cover so it is secured along with the injector harness...

Do you mean the black plastic acoustic cover that covers the engine and is secured with 3 bolts? If so, Stanleysteamer is spot on, just take it off and carry on driving. It does nothing but hide the engine from the non-mechanically inclined, and supposedly reduces engine noise. Many people don't bother with it at all.
If you mean the aluminium "rocker" cover with the yellow oil filler that gives access to the injector harness, then I would be more cautious. With some areas unsecured there could be potential for warping if you drove it for a long period. I would consider it driveable with caution, but I would want to remove and replace the snapped bolts asap.
In the meantime, keep the faith and follow Sierrafery's advice.
 
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......what about the inertia switch plug? .... i think you didnt listen or i'm speking in vain ? read again may first feply but try to concentrate on my advices.. or knock yourself out
I did try resetting the inertia switch but it didn't really do anything... I guess if I bridge a wire around it it will tell me if there is a problem with the switch itself...

tested the inertia switch all was okay.
To be fair, he did say this in posts #8 and #10
 
Do you mean the black plastic acoustic cover that covers the engine and is secured with 3 bolts? If so, Stanleysteamer is spot on, just take it off and carry on driving. It does nothing but hide the engine from the non-mechanically inclined, and supposedly reduces engine noise. Many people don't bother with it at all.
If you mean the aluminium "rocker" cover with the yellow oil filler that gives access to the injector harness, then I would be more cautious. With some areas unsecured there could be potential for warping if you drove it for a long period. I would consider it driveable with caution, but I would want to remove and replace the snapped bolts asap.
In the meantime, keep the faith and follow Sierrafery's advice.
Thank you, It is the Cam cover which is missing two bolts... I have driven it but not for long journeys until I can get to a bolts shop to buy two new ones...
 

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