Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
How much is 
price & how the hell do ya change the batterys????
price & how the hell do ya change the batterys????
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Well I took the diode off the circuitry this morning and tested it by
1. Setting my multi-meter to Ohms
2. testing the resistance both ways as stated.
3. Results were with the +ve at the front of the switch & -ve to the rear .677
4.repeated the test with leads other way around & got no reading.
AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!
needmoretools
Active Member
Instead of me typing for ages and drawing etc I've found a clip on youtube for you diode bit starts around 5 and half mins in look for how to test a transistor and diode ......by mjlorton that is the quickest way I can help you
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Wits end now really. From todays exploits I have found that
1. I now have all 4 doors switches working.
2. The diode IS working correctly - after testing it like Discool advised
3. There is no power whatsoever to pins 1 & 16 of the alarm box.
So looking at this I then scratched me 'ead again, and went back to the MFU to check pin 5. I did this as looking at the diagram power exits pin 5, and should travel down to S261, where it then is split going to left front door switch, right rear & left rear, which it is doing now. It should (but isn't) also provide to Pin 16 Theft Alarm Unit & through the one way Tailgate diode to the rear tailgate & up to PIN 1 Theft Alarm Unit. Correct so far????
Now I have cut MFU Pin 5 at a reasonable working distance to check it. I then put the tester on the bit poking out of the MFU plug - 12V. Which if I'm correct I should expect to see????
I then put it on the other side of said cut wire and got 12V again??? Which I don't think I should be seeing, should I???
1. I now have all 4 doors switches working.
2. The diode IS working correctly - after testing it like Discool advised
3. There is no power whatsoever to pins 1 & 16 of the alarm box.
So looking at this I then scratched me 'ead again, and went back to the MFU to check pin 5. I did this as looking at the diagram power exits pin 5, and should travel down to S261, where it then is split going to left front door switch, right rear & left rear, which it is doing now. It should (but isn't) also provide to Pin 16 Theft Alarm Unit & through the one way Tailgate diode to the rear tailgate & up to PIN 1 Theft Alarm Unit. Correct so far????
Now I have cut MFU Pin 5 at a reasonable working distance to check it. I then put the tester on the bit poking out of the MFU plug - 12V. Which if I'm correct I should expect to see????
I then put it on the other side of said cut wire and got 12V again??? Which I don't think I should be seeing, should I???
Dragonwalker
Well-Known Member
Wits end now really. From todays exploits I have found that
1. I now have all 4 doors switches working.
2. The diode IS working correctly - after testing it like Discool advised
3. There is no power whatsoever to pins 1 & 16 of the alarm box.
So looking at this I then scratched me 'ead again, and went back to the MFU to check pin 5. I did this as looking at the diagram power exits pin 5, and should travel down to S261, where it then is split going to left front door switch, right rear & left rear, which it is doing now. It should (but isn't) also provide to Pin 16 Theft Alarm Unit & through the one way Tailgate diode to the rear tailgate & up to PIN 1 Theft Alarm Unit. Correct so far????
Now I have cut MFU Pin 5 at a reasonable working distance to check it. I then put the tester on the bit poking out of the MFU plug - 12V. Which if I'm correct I should expect to see????
I then put it on the other side of said cut wire and got 12V again??? Which I don't think I should be seeing, should I???
Could be feedback via another circuit
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
I been searching for while now for a new Multi-function unit, managed to get one from one of my dads old mates (he has a scrapyard) took the whole fuse box and white MFU off it. The truck it came off WAS running, until I butchered it, it was in because of dreaded tin worm. Everything electrical worked on it before I took off the box (got the alarm sounder too) now I've come home & removed my unit complete, powered everything up and STILL got ign & interior lights on . So it must be an earthing fault somewhere......But God knows where?????
. So it must be an earthing fault somewhere......But God knows where?????
I been searching for while now for a new Multi-function unit, managed to get one from one of my dads old mates (he has a scrapyard) took the whole fuse box and white MFU off it. The truck it came off WAS running, until I butchered it, it was in because of dreaded tin worm. Everything electrical worked on it before I took off the box (got the alarm sounder too) now I've come home & removed my unit complete, powered everything up and STILL got ign & interior lights on
OMG!
I feel for you. Good luck.
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Might have to enlist the help of a professional, any Auto electricians local to Manchester / Oldham recommended or even on this site???
Jasonmichael
Well-Known Member
Well auto-spark visited today and we have results
The alarm ECU is buggered
He did all sorts of tests, even simulated the interior lights dimming and extinguishing, got it all working (How I don't know) but as soon as he plugged the connector back into the alarm ECU it all went tits -up.
The alarm ECU is buggered
He did all sorts of tests, even simulated the interior lights dimming and extinguishing, got it all working (How I don't know) but as soon as he plugged the connector back into the alarm ECU it all went tits -up.
