Electric window repair with a £3 bicycle brake cable.
Just thought I would give my process for a repair to the front drivers window which packed up the other day.
I all the screws out that were necessary to remove the door card, then placed on one side.
Slacken off the 2 nuts on the clamp holding the glass in place.
Rotate the glass anti-clockwise and carefully lift the rear edge out of the slot in the top of the door.
Slacken off the 4 bolts holding the runners in place, undo the bolt holding the motor. Turn both parts horizontal and remove from the door through the large hole. remember to remove the wire from the bottom of the motor by squeezing the metal clips together.
now you can see which of the 3 cables has broken.
In my case it was one of the cables that terminates in the motor so remove the 4 torx screws from the motor casing.
Lift off the casing lid to reveal the plastic pulley. The pulley will just lift out remove the broken cable. The cable I bought was twice the length I needed and had a nipple on both ends so I cut in half.
I had to file the nipple down slightly for it to fit into hole in the pulley.
Lay the runners on the floor or bench and slide the glass clamps to the bottom. Locate all cable sleeve ends into the runners. pull the cables tight.
Carefully wind the new cable onto the pulley keeping as tight as you can. you will also need to wind the other cable on at the same time. Once you have both cables relatively tight on the pulley locate it back onto the toothed cog. This took me several goes but I got there in the end. Screw the cover back on with the torx screws. I read that in some of the repair kits that the glue provided doesn't hold the nipple onto the cable so I used a rivet by sliding it onto the cable and clamped it with a cable connector with the plastic cut off, just leaving the brass block and 2 screws. I pulled the cable as tight as I could and clamped it. Have a dry run before fitting back in the door. You can unclip the motor wire from inside the door and connect it so you can try your handy work. I admit it was a bit trail and error but it worked so I put everything back and its been great! I did think if the cable connector doesn't hold I can always solder it in place. I don't know what a garage would have charged but it took me a couple of hours and £3 to do so I'm a happy bunny!
Just thought I would give my process for a repair to the front drivers window which packed up the other day.
I all the screws out that were necessary to remove the door card, then placed on one side.
Slacken off the 2 nuts on the clamp holding the glass in place.
Rotate the glass anti-clockwise and carefully lift the rear edge out of the slot in the top of the door.
Slacken off the 4 bolts holding the runners in place, undo the bolt holding the motor. Turn both parts horizontal and remove from the door through the large hole. remember to remove the wire from the bottom of the motor by squeezing the metal clips together.
now you can see which of the 3 cables has broken.
In my case it was one of the cables that terminates in the motor so remove the 4 torx screws from the motor casing.
Lift off the casing lid to reveal the plastic pulley. The pulley will just lift out remove the broken cable. The cable I bought was twice the length I needed and had a nipple on both ends so I cut in half.
I had to file the nipple down slightly for it to fit into hole in the pulley.
Lay the runners on the floor or bench and slide the glass clamps to the bottom. Locate all cable sleeve ends into the runners. pull the cables tight.
Carefully wind the new cable onto the pulley keeping as tight as you can. you will also need to wind the other cable on at the same time. Once you have both cables relatively tight on the pulley locate it back onto the toothed cog. This took me several goes but I got there in the end. Screw the cover back on with the torx screws. I read that in some of the repair kits that the glue provided doesn't hold the nipple onto the cable so I used a rivet by sliding it onto the cable and clamped it with a cable connector with the plastic cut off, just leaving the brass block and 2 screws. I pulled the cable as tight as I could and clamped it. Have a dry run before fitting back in the door. You can unclip the motor wire from inside the door and connect it so you can try your handy work. I admit it was a bit trail and error but it worked so I put everything back and its been great! I did think if the cable connector doesn't hold I can always solder it in place. I don't know what a garage would have charged but it took me a couple of hours and £3 to do so I'm a happy bunny!
