Dan333

Member
Hi has anyone else had problems programming issues with codes etc done by dealers, just wondering if this is an issue or maybe it's not that common, just had a new electric hand brake module fitted and the garage had a nightmare programming it, it was about 16 hours on my bill to fix looking forward to your replys
 
Hi, if 16 hours was just for programming then IMO it's outrageous... in general any kind of programming should work with the proper firmware following the procedure untill the end which can take max 1 hour or if it doesnt work that way i can't imagine what to do in 15 hours more other than scratching your head :vb-headbang: .
 
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Hi my bill was just under £4000 module &2060 MOT and oil change on the Bill says problems getting it coded,I haven't spoken to them yet just a bit grumpy still, thanks for your reply
 
I was wondering if there is a problem somewhere times programming coding etc on the disco sport
 
It was a technical bulletin about the diagnostic software but valid only for later modells so your's being the early one i have no explanation other than those who had programmimg issues with it are incompetents or missing the proper firmware... if it was a main dealer the firmware is ruled out but the mechanics are not the best, all they know well is the maintainance while it's under warranty they dont care about older vehicles(at least that's how it is in my country)
 
It was a technical bulletin about the diagnostic software but valid only for later modells so your's being the early one i have no explanation other than those who had programmimg issues with it are incompetents or missing the proper firmware... if it was a main dealer the firmware is ruled out but the mechanics are not the best, all they know well is the maintainance while it's under warranty they dont care about older vehicles(at least that's how it is in my country)
This what is on the bill do you think they know what they are doing
 

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There is no 'coding' as such of the rear brake modules - the Discovery Sport (L550) has a motor on each caliper, the current is controlled by the ABS block and the current flow direction swapped to power the park brake on or off. The only calibration needed upon replacement is to store the current draw for each motor & direction in the ABS - a twenty minute job.
I would suggest that there may be a wiring or connection issue causing the calibration to fail. If this is the case, then it will rear it's head again - hopefully not with the park brake applied....

It would be useful to know what diagnostics they were using, if it's of the same era as the invoicing software, then It's no surprise they struggled. I'd also question which parts they change exactly - the park brake motors are available separate to the calipers and obviously cheaper.

Not all independent tech's are 'the best thing since.....' just as not all dealer tech's 'just follow what the computer says'. I've worked in both environments (currently indie) and there's a full range of awful to excellent in most workshops. The best thing I can suggest is try and see the condition of the cars the tech's drive - if they're snotters, then why would they care about your car and not their own?
 
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There is no 'coding' as such of the rear brake modules - the Discovery Sport (L550) has a motor on each caliper, the current is controlled by the ABS block and the current flow direction swapped to power the park brake on or off. The only calibration needed upon replacement is to store the current draw for each motor & direction in the ABS - a twenty minute job.
I would suggest that there may be a wiring or connection issue causing the calibration to fail. If this is the case, then it will rear it's head again - hopefully not with the park brake applied....

It would be useful to know what diagnostics they were using, if it's of the same era as the invoicing software, then It's no surprise they struggled. I'd also question which parts they change exactly - the park brake motors are available separate to the calipers and obviously cheaper.

Not all independent tech's are 'the best thing since.....' just as not all dealer tech's 'just follow what the computer says'. I've worked in both environments (currently indie) and there's a full range of awful to excellent in most workshops. The best thing I can suggest is try and see the condition of the cars the tech's drive - if they're snotters, then why would they care about your car and not their own?
I have known many mechanics over the years, and the vast majority ran heaps as personal transport, and I know for a fact a few of them had money, the rest earnt decent money but would not spend it on cars.
 
There is no 'coding' as such of the rear brake modules - the Discovery Sport (L550) has a motor on each caliper, the current is controlled by the ABS block and the current flow direction swapped to power the park brake on or off. The only calibration needed upon replacement is to store the current draw for each motor & direction in the ABS - a twenty minute job.
I would suggest that there may be a wiring or connection issue causing the calibration to fail. If this is the case, then it will rear it's head again - hopefully not with the park brake applied....

It would be useful to know what diagnostics they were using, if it's of the same era as the invoicing software, then It's no surprise they struggled. I'd also question which parts they change exactly - the park brake motors are available separate to the calipers and obviously cheaper.

Not all independent tech's are 'the best thing since.....' just as not all dealer tech's 'just follow what the computer says'. I've worked in both environments (currently indie) and there's a full range of awful to excellent in most workshops. The best thing I can suggest is try and see the condition of the cars the tech's drive - if they're snotters, then why would they care about your car and not their own?
Hi thanks for reply and taking your time, the garage isn't a land rover dealer so not sure what software they are using the problem started with the DSR brake sticking on would clear driving a bit, was intermittent first but after a while it wouldn't come of , had to take the wheel off and rewind the motor on the brake and just unplugged the motor it only stuck on the drivers side, don't know if this is of any help to you
 
There's not a lot else I can comment on - it's one of those 'in real life' jobs that can't really be progressed on the internet.
As I said, the symptoms suggest electrical connections - and leaving the motor disconnected won't help with corrosion TBH.
It is possible that the motors were / are out of sync which can lead to issues with calibrating, it's usual practice to ensure that both calipers are wound fully off before replacing one or both motors but without knowing what was done and with which diagnostic software, it's impossible to second-guess what has been done, incorrectly or otherwise.
 
There's not a lot else I can comment on - it's one of those 'in real life' jobs that can't really be progressed on the internet.
As I said, the symptoms suggest electrical connections - and leaving the motor disconnected won't help with corrosion TBH.
It is possible that the motors were / are out of sync which can lead to issues with calibrating, it's usual practice to ensure that both calipers are wound fully off before replacing one or both motors but without knowing what was done and with which diagnostic software, it's impossible to second-guess what has been done, incorrectly or otherwise.
Can I ask you one more question, just wondering if it's an common issue with the DS or problem with them showing faults and programming them, I also getting a low battery Will shut down in 3 minutes now as well, and battery is good
Thanks again 👍
 
I don't understand what you're referring to in the first question - what faults in which system?
With regard to the battery, have you had the starter battery and the secondary battery tested? either will give that message. Or are you assuming the battery is 'good' because it still starts the engine? does your autostop function as expected?
 
I don't understand what you're referring to in the first question - what faults in which system?
With regard to the battery, have you had the starter battery and the secondary battery tested? either will give that message. Or are you assuming the battery is 'good' because it still starts the engine? does your autostop function as expected?
See the attachment this is on my bill about faults
 

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See the attachment this is on my bill about faults
The battery has been tested and charging is good still get start the engine or the system will shutdown in 3 minutes could it be that I had the battery disconnected
 
Oh, right - back to the brake faults, well you'd have to ask them what the 'different faults' that were displayed are, it's all a bit wishy-washy and manages to use a lot of words to say precisely nothing, other than they've spent a fair bit of your money.
The system used isn't unique to L550's, it's used on a lot of later JLR, Ford, PSA & Volvo products with similar systems used by VWG, M-B, etc. so it shouldn't be a challenge to get right. To be honest, the ABS block being changed reads as pure 'parts darts' as an internet post-mortem from your description and what passes for an invoice.
 

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