killerhaggis

killerhaggis

Member
Hi, I'm about ready to scrap it...

2000 4.6 , before I had a flat battery everything worked as it should remote,central locking etc, I put a fully charged new battery in, waited 30 mins before i tried anything, first thing was the remote wouldn't work on the central locking , I used key on drivers side to open, tried key in ignition and the message 'press remote or enter key code came up. Pressing the remote did nothing so I then entered the EKA code (after 4 turns to left) nothing.. tried entering EKA several times without success.. Am I missing something obvious? any thoughts appreciated before I send it to scrap
 
Are you entering EKA code correctly would be first thought. Find someone with a Nanocom to disarm it for you. Then you can sync the fob.
 
Does the red light come on the fob strongly? 2nd fob?
If your lucky the batteries gone weak in the fob if you can disarm with the fob key press in ignition would get you going
 
I can on mine being à 1999, turn the remote in the door to lock while pressing lock and unlock while pressing unlock. It may or may not help:D
 
Resist the temptation to scrap it, it's doing exactly what it's meant to. Key fob lost sync due to flat battery, so that won't resync until you have sorted the immobilisation (second key suggestion above is a good shout). I would resist the temptation to tinker (and make things worse) and try and find the nanocom - either you have the wrong EKA, using the wrong process, or the microswitches aren't co-operating. Nano will solve for the last 2, but not the first. p16/ Locks and Alarm of 2000/ 2001 Owners Manual for precise EKA procedure. Open the door every second failure to avoid EKA lockout.
 
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.
 
DanClarke said:
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.
Click to expand...
That's exactly the method I have been using, it's looking likely that it could be micro switches
 
Have you had any issues with the locks activating by themselves?
Thats normally a sign of dodgy microswitches. ;)
 
I have the same year and engine as you. Every year due to working away it sits with the battery off for about 9 months, so each time i reconnect i get the engine immobilised enter EKA. I always use the method as Danclarke describes and never had an issue until the micro switches packed in. Replaced the door assembly (at an eye watering cost as bought from Rimmers ) but all solved and bobs your auntie. Get in touch with Martyyuk and he might be able to sort you out at a much better rate. But micro switches are preferable to scrapping. Hope you get some success. You would miss the V8
 
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