Orangebean
Active Member
If you ever get to this, buried at the bottom of Mystery's post...
When the message display is blank, with ignition off:
R Rover P38
Motronic
Bottom right green arrow to BECM button
Select it
Bottom right hand arrow to Utility
Select it
Type your 4 digit EKA into the box
Hit disarm
That's it
Have a practice using the emulator. You can't do it all, but it'll help you get the idea
When you've finished, use your Nano to test all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch so you know they're all good (or not)
When the message display is blank, with ignition off:
R Rover P38
Motronic
Bottom right green arrow to BECM button
Select it
Bottom right hand arrow to Utility
Select it
Type your 4 digit EKA into the box
Hit disarm
That's it
Have a practice using the emulator. You can't do it all, but it'll help you get the idea
When you've finished, use your Nano to test all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch so you know they're all good (or not)
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
It’s a1999 but with the Thor V8.
Guess it could be the mircoswitches. I had the spare key repaired the other year but have never been able to get it to sync or work with EKA.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Didn’t know about the emulator. Will give it a go tomorrow morning and report back.
Only works on BECMs PAM v36 or better will not work on earlier versions.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
Can you still disable the immobiliser though? I thought you just couldn't enter the eka in earlier BECM
The Nanocom disarm function will not work on BECMs prior to PAM v36, however the the need for the EKA code and the immobiliser can be disabled on all versions with the BECM in diagnostic mode.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify, if the car is asking for eka, you can disable that and the immobiliser on ALL BECM but only the later ones allow you to enter the eka code via BECM.
In other words, with nanocom, you can always get it going?
Correct.
When I was with Marty the other week he spotted the BECM in my '95 Land Rover was actually from 1997 and was a version 36. Given everything on it was genuine, stickers etc, we concluded it had been replaced by Land Rover on warranty.
The point of this is that you were surprised in the past that my 95 had v36 software and also that anything post 97 is probably v36 or above.
The one I have in mine now is v37, thanks to Marty.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip. But I couldn’t get this work. After step 4 it would only turn over. Not start. If I took the key out and put it back in it would start right up. But couldn’t get either key to sync
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300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Thought I’d give an update.
1. Have managed to start it by entering the EKA on my Nanocom. At least I can move it about now.
2. I still can’t get either of my keys to sync. Have tried 3 or maybe 4 or more different ways that I’ve seen posted over the net. None seem to work.
3. The central locking isn’t working any more. Either with the key or even with the engine running using the sill buttons on the door cards. It did ‘unlock’ the first time I entered the EKA on the Nanocom however.
4. EKA via the door using the key does not seem to work.
Anyone suggest what I try next?
-First priority getting at least one key to sync
-Second priority finding out why the EKA via the door doesn’t work
But I have no idea how to go about either of these
1. Have managed to start it by entering the EKA on my Nanocom. At least I can move it about now.
2. I still can’t get either of my keys to sync. Have tried 3 or maybe 4 or more different ways that I’ve seen posted over the net. None seem to work.
3. The central locking isn’t working any more. Either with the key or even with the engine running using the sill buttons on the door cards. It did ‘unlock’ the first time I entered the EKA on the Nanocom however.
4. EKA via the door using the key does not seem to work.
Anyone suggest what I try next?
-First priority getting at least one key to sync
-Second priority finding out why the EKA via the door doesn’t work
But I have no idea how to go about either of these
martyuk
Well-Known Member
If it turns over then you are no longer in an EKA lockout - but rather the immobiliser is just still on.
I would test your door latch microswitches - it sounds like it's the root cause.
If you have the 'IMMOBILISER' setting turned off in the BECM then the key WON'T sync in the ignition as the immobiliser setting just disables the passive immobiliser, which stops it automatically immobilising after a time-out period - BUT it also stops the 'friendly sync' of the key in the ignition.
If you can't lock/unlock the doors with the sill lock button, then that to me says that your CDL microswitch has failed. This is also used when you turn the key in the lock, so if it's faulty then you will NOT be able to sync the key to the vehicle at all.
My suggestion - take the door card off, check the wiring to the door latch as it can get caught by the window regulator sometimes if it's been moved before and not clipped back properly (this can cause a broken wire and then weird things to happen). If the wiring looks ok, then test the door latch microswitches - either with my test sheet that can be downloaded from the 'Technical Information' section of my website http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71, or with the Nanocom (BECM -> INPUTS -> DOORS/LOCKING from memory).
And I feel I should make a note that I do NOT recommend ANY owner trying the 'connect battery with key in position II' method. a) it doesn't do anything special with regards to getting it working - I've heard it works for some people, but it's pure luck - knowing how the system works, there is NO reason that it would magically fix anything. and the more important reason b) Connecting the battery with the key in position 2 will provide a massive instant load on the battery, and can produce a very decent spark. with the key out of the ignition, the most current draw you have is from the BECM powering up and maybe the interior lights. If you have the key in position II then you have a lot more powering up - some items of which draw a substantial inrush current. ABS pump, Blower motors, fuel pump etc - to name a few.. as well as thinks like HEVAC ECU, Radio, Engine ECU - the list goes on. Whilst some things don't draw a LOT of current, the total instantaneous draw from the battery is massive compared to if the ignition is off.
But back to your issue... I'm 95% sure it's your door latch which is the root cause of the problem.
I would test your door latch microswitches - it sounds like it's the root cause.
If you have the 'IMMOBILISER' setting turned off in the BECM then the key WON'T sync in the ignition as the immobiliser setting just disables the passive immobiliser, which stops it automatically immobilising after a time-out period - BUT it also stops the 'friendly sync' of the key in the ignition.
If you can't lock/unlock the doors with the sill lock button, then that to me says that your CDL microswitch has failed. This is also used when you turn the key in the lock, so if it's faulty then you will NOT be able to sync the key to the vehicle at all.
My suggestion - take the door card off, check the wiring to the door latch as it can get caught by the window regulator sometimes if it's been moved before and not clipped back properly (this can cause a broken wire and then weird things to happen). If the wiring looks ok, then test the door latch microswitches - either with my test sheet that can be downloaded from the 'Technical Information' section of my website http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71, or with the Nanocom (BECM -> INPUTS -> DOORS/LOCKING from memory).
And I feel I should make a note that I do NOT recommend ANY owner trying the 'connect battery with key in position II' method. a) it doesn't do anything special with regards to getting it working - I've heard it works for some people, but it's pure luck - knowing how the system works, there is NO reason that it would magically fix anything. and the more important reason b) Connecting the battery with the key in position 2 will provide a massive instant load on the battery, and can produce a very decent spark. with the key out of the ignition, the most current draw you have is from the BECM powering up and maybe the interior lights. If you have the key in position II then you have a lot more powering up - some items of which draw a substantial inrush current. ABS pump, Blower motors, fuel pump etc - to name a few.. as well as thinks like HEVAC ECU, Radio, Engine ECU - the list goes on. Whilst some things don't draw a LOT of current, the total instantaneous draw from the battery is massive compared to if the ignition is off.
But back to your issue... I'm 95% sure it's your door latch which is the root cause of the problem.
But you are not immobilised and at least you are Started(?) and that's a good thing.Thanks for the tip. But I couldn’t get this work. After step 4 it would only turn over. Not start. If I took the key out and put it back in it would start right up. But couldn’t get either key to sync
I have had my keys start the vehicle but not work as remote fobs. Clearing the RF memory with a Nanocom fixed my remote key-fob working in both cases.
Find someone local with a Nanocom to clear the RF memory for you and see what happens.
As @martyuk says the battery reconnect with key in position 2 is a "desperation/no immediate alternative" measure when you are stuck and need to get the car going again. Key fob sync is a secondary issue.
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