Howdy

Whilst trying to work through my stuttering 1999 TD5 Defender problems, I keep coming across the EGR.

Do I even have one? As I have read one post pointing towards 'Post 2002'.

Can some one point me in the right direction as why I should remove it, and if possible a step by step guide.
I have read (I think), that some people disconnect it electrically, and others replace/ or blank it.

Also, will cleaning a MAF sensor make any difference to engine running, or does it either work, or not work???

Many Thanks.

egr is bolted to inlet manifold and has the large rubber hose running to it from the intercooler on rhs side of engine, as you have hot exhaust gas runnin through it at lower revs it cokes itself and inlet manifold up , you could just remove vac hose and bung hose to stop it operating but most get a kit and black exhaust feed to it on lhs of engine and replace egr with a flanged bare tube ,unless egr is stuck open at all times you shouldnt notice it causing rough running, have you checked injector loom were it joins engine loom for oil

jamesmartin said:

egr is bolted to inlet manifold and has the large rubber hose running to it from the intercooler on rhs side of engine, as you have hot exhaust gas runnin through it at lower revs it cokes itself and inlet manifold up , you could just remove vac hose and bung hose to stop it operating but most get a kit and black exhaust feed to it on lhs of engine and replace egr with a flanged bare tube ,unless egr is stuck open at all times you shouldnt notice it causing rough running, have you checked injector loom were it joins engine loom for oil

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Thanks James

I am just waiting for delivery of a new injector loom. I noticed oil at the red plug and a little on the ECU. I am hoping this is the problem.
I have wondered though..........
I have cleaned the ECU & red plug to within an inch of its life. It hasn't really made any difference. I thought that it was the oil leaking down the loom to the red plug, and then into the ECU that was making the engine run rough??
I thought that by cleaning this up, it would have solved the problem temporarily??

Why do folk mess with the EGR?

it creates more soot and acids in the oil ,and can choke inlet manifold /egr valve, , what is the stuttering , idle ,all the time or just at higher revs

The stuttering is all the way through the rec range, although slightly less when pushed hard. It has become so bad, that occasionally, the engine management light comes on the dash, and the Landy just stops. There have been a few times when the engine is running, the engine management light comes on, but there is no response from the accelerator. I initially thought it was fuel contamination or starvation, but I have changed the fuel filter without any success.
I have noticed though oil at the red plug.
As I mentioned before, I have cleaned both sides of the plug with brake cleaner, and then used a warm hair dryer to try and dry both ends out. I also took off the ECU (I didn't open it), turned it plugs down to see if there was any oil inside to drain. There wasn't.
Again, I am a little surprised that my cleaning antics haven't solved the problem at least temporarily. I have had seen from another forum member, that I won't know until Ichange the loom, but I cannot understand why, as I thought the problem was at the ECU end of things.
I have cleaned the MAP sensor, so that is ruled out.
I am wondering if I should touch the MAF sensor??
Thanks for your help.

Quick check for the MAF is to unplug it.
If no loss of engine response then its kaput.
If the engine runs smoother when unplugged its kaput.

If you are replacing the MAF then use OEM everytime or you'll be changing it again in six months time.

Shifty1962 said:

Quick check for the MAF is to unplug it.
If no loss of engine response then its kaput.
If the engine runs smoother when unplugged its kaput.

If you are replacing the MAF then use OEM everytime or you'll be changing it again in six months time.

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Thanks Shifty

If it is kaput, what affect would it have on general running??

Shifty1962 said:

Quick check for the MAF is to unplug it.
If no loss of engine response then its kaput.
If the engine runs smoother when unplugged its kaput.

If you are replacing the MAF then use OEM everytime or you'll be changing it again in six months time.

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Shifty
With my on going injector loom problem................
If I have cleaned thoroughly both sides of the red plug, checked the ECU, and dried with a hair dryer, should this at least give me some temporary relief from my engine stuttering problems??
I will be changing the loom as soon as it arrives, but I thought the issues were at the ECU end of things???
Many Thanks.

were about are you based there may be some one local who can read fault codes

jamesmartin said:

were about are you based there may be some one local who can read fault codes

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Hi James

In the back end of beyond in the mountains of Southern Spain.
I have a dealer about 1 hour away.
Will diagnostics pick up on any of the things I have mentioned previously??