sierrafery
Well-Known Member
What i was trying to say about effect on emmisions was that a not 100% well working EGR can be the source of excessive black smoke so can be a power box or wrong remap
Certainly if the EGR is not working correctly it will cause problems. Smoke lack of power etc. Main problem with them is build up of crap around the EGR valve, in the manifold, cylinder inlet ports. If you disconnect the EGR benefits are lack of this crap build up. That is all. Claims of power increase, better fuel consumption are pie in the sky perceptions. Power boxes and chips may cause a little smoke at times on hard acceleration under load but that is usually well within the specs of the smoke test. My P38 is chipped in the ECU and flies, but does not bother the smoke test equipment at all. Smoke emissions are very low as far as the test goes.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I hope we'll not start a debate again about how the IAT and MAF readings are affecting power and consumption
...cos both are affected by EGR activity, but this post being about a D3 and not Td5 i'll not make any other statements cos even if they are diesel engines the electronic management is differentI should have said "a well done remap is the correct way"
Remap was done by a very well known company so well known they
I had several chips for the ecu and used to swap them about during my tea breaks, I was right into the TD5 engine as I loved the noise it made.
Out of curiosity who done your remap?
thks, had a box fitted on my td4 for 7x years and left it turn on at mots, passed every time
found out my engine is an eu2
appreciate the info
fantastic bit of info, thks for that , always good learning different things
do the egrs mainly work at tickover
spent ages last night scraping out all of the throttle body, finally got the butterfly out, reinstalled the actuator and butterfly rod back , so there wasn't a hole left
hope to get it all back min tues, weather dependants
fitting tha blanks on the engine are going to be fun, but got an idea with that , putting the bolts onto the plate, then putting some ptfe on the back to stop the bolts dropping out
kept the metal gaskets , wondering if i should seal it with something or maybe put some silicone grease on the gasket, assume that will just burn away though with the heat , haven't got any exhaust sealant
thks,
thought me doing the egr blank first to ensure as u say they are then omitted , so i can test the engine and get a true base figure on its performance , won't take any notice of the onboard mpg display but brim the fuel tank
I hope we'll not start a debate again about how the IAT and MAF readings are affecting power and consumption
agree, don't want the normal debate, lol
my engine had started to run slightly lumpy
when i connected the iid i noticed the egr live readings were around. 2% , where as before on tickover they were zero
most likely completely wrong, but from that reading i assume the egr was slightly open where before it was at zero
looking at the egr valves, they are coked , but don't want to touch them, in case trying to clean them i shove all the hard carbon into the engine
suppose the only way would be to remove them to clean, but look a right pig to get out
thinking i won't gain much, as they will now be redundant so might as well leave them well alone
Top tip is to jam and old towel/rag down under the egr valve flange so if you drop the bolts you can retrieve them easily.
When you have done it you will wonder what all the fuss was about.
I think you will find your D3 is Euro 3, Iirc later D3 07 ish onwards were Euro 4 these are the ones that need the egr/ecu software patch, D4 I think is Euro 5 right up until the last of the line which with ad-blue are Euro 6.
Euro 2 is real old crap like TDIs etc, I think later td5 is quite clean as well, not sure on early ones.
When you have done it you will wonder what all the fuss was about.
I think you will find your D3 is Euro 3, Iirc later D3 07 ish onwards were Euro 4 these are the ones that need the egr/ecu software patch, D4 I think is Euro 5 right up until the last of the line which with ad-blue are Euro 6.
Euro 2 is real old crap like TDIs etc, I think later td5 is quite clean as well, not sure on early ones.
thks, made sure as i took parts off to cover it with rags , to ensure nothing went into the engine
looking down at the egr they are full of crap , but will leave well alone
may i ask what revs do the egrs close the butterfly valve please
also thinking of what to put on the blanking plates that go onto the engine side , got metal gaskets , haven't got any exhaust sealant etc, are they ok without anything , know if i put some silicone grease that will just burn off , assume though the metal gasket should prevent any leak from the engine , seeing the pipes didn't have anything
thks again for the great info
I cant remember what I used for sealant it would have been either silicone sealant or exhaust paste, most likely the silicone great as an exhaust pipe sealant, people laugh and deride it but pound to a penny they havent tried it!
You will have to google egr function as its not as simple as you think, for example full throttle acceleration will switch egr off, idle will have low to no egr opening and I bet it varies maker to maker and even model to model.
If you watch the egr valve position as you tap the throttle you can see the percentages move up and down, not tried it on a road test but might be interesting to know, would make a good video for youtube as I bet most folk havent a clue.
This is the problem with early egr cars they are still dirty mofos under full chat, by early I mean anything pre Euro6
You will have to google egr function as its not as simple as you think, for example full throttle acceleration will switch egr off, idle will have low to no egr opening and I bet it varies maker to maker and even model to model.
If you watch the egr valve position as you tap the throttle you can see the percentages move up and down, not tried it on a road test but might be interesting to know, would make a good video for youtube as I bet most folk havent a clue.
This is the problem with early egr cars they are still dirty mofos under full chat, by early I mean anything pre Euro6
did put a smear of glazing silicone on the engine side blanks
let the engine run for a while and put some leak detector spray on it, all sound
thks ref the egr function, will have a look, always good to see how things work etc
they had a date label of 2011 on the egrs
pleased i don't have to worry about them anymore
seems to be smoother as well, but yet again might just me imagining it
at 3,000 revs it useto have a lag feeling , it now will just keep pulling
got to be better with all the junk out and not having to breath exhaust fumes anymore
looking forward when i turn on the tuning box , has 10 x settings, will put it on number 1 first , highest i will go is most likely to be number. 4 , but if it's ok at 2 , will leave it there
did try the egr live readings on the iid, tickover they were at zero, then went around 2-3% at tickover and engine started to run slightly lumpy , but now the rev counter on tickover is very stable
brian47
Well-Known Member
Exhaust sealants? there are two different ones I've used over time, good old "Gun-Gum" and "Exhaust Assembly Paste".
Gun-Gum is that very dark blue/grey putty like stuff which can be applied to the blank by spreading it all around the edge of the blanking plate so that it forms a hard gasket type seal when the plate is fastened in place. Very heat proof.
Exhaust assembly paste is a white paste in a tube, much like toothpaste (do not get them confused) applied to the edge of the plate and it forms a ceramic like seal after a short while exposed to the heat of the exhaust.
The only problem which I can see with using any such sealant is that in use they get very hard and if disassembly is ever undertaken there is a risk of small pieces breaking off and dropping into the exhaust manifold and consequently being blown into the "drive side" of the turbo.
Gun-Gum is that very dark blue/grey putty like stuff which can be applied to the blank by spreading it all around the edge of the blanking plate so that it forms a hard gasket type seal when the plate is fastened in place. Very heat proof.
Exhaust assembly paste is a white paste in a tube, much like toothpaste (do not get them confused) applied to the edge of the plate and it forms a ceramic like seal after a short while exposed to the heat of the exhaust.
The only problem which I can see with using any such sealant is that in use they get very hard and if disassembly is ever undertaken there is a risk of small pieces breaking off and dropping into the exhaust manifold and consequently being blown into the "drive side" of the turbo.
good to know, see what u mean , as time goes buy with the possibility of any bits going inside
only put a slight smear of the silicone , right on the edges as i only need it to seal there
did clean the metal gaskets really well
when i done an egr blank on my td4 some 5-6 years ago it was still sound , as there wasn't any indication of it leaking, no oil etc
so used the same on this blanking
did see once some ptfe type sealant but for some reason couldn't find it again
on the throttle body i only used some silicone grease, did come with O rings , didn't like to use any of the normal silicone on that , concerned with it being the throttle body of anything being dragged in , as it had 2 x O rings each side i felt that was enough to seal the throttle section
