Toseland

Active Member
This was an obvious side effect of the egr blank, as mine was fitted with a cooler (15p), the engine now takes longer to warm up.

Now this begs the question about a coolant in line heater, dunno what they would be officially called by my Peugeot (2.0hdi) hasa non cooled egr, and a small block with 4 glow plugs in which had the sole task of bringing the coolant up to nearer running temperature faster. It goes off after about 5 minutes and is connected to the thermostat via a timed relay, .

Basically the idea is to heat the engine faster I guess for more fuel efficiency or warmer heaters faster whatever .

Now I don't feel the need for a preheater/ block heater, but is this doable? Maybe via a manual momentary switch in the cabin and via a timed relay? And possibly utilising the Water lines from the egr cooler which I assume are pre-thermostat.
 
The Td5 is usually a bit slow to come up to temperature, especially in weather such as we've been witnessing this week, but bear in mind that the dashboard temperature gauge doesn't tell the whole truth, some would say nothing like the whole truth. Mine takes something like 5 - 7 miles to start warming the cab heater.
When you removed the EGR, the method often adopted for engines with the heat exchanger unit is to leave it in place and fit the blanking plate to the EGR valve end instead of blanking off at the exhaust manifold end.
 
Now this begs the question about a coolant in line heater, dunno what they would be officially called by my Peugeot (2.0hdi) hasa non cooled egr, and a small block with 4 glow plugs in which had the sole task of bringing the coolant up to nearer running temperature faster. It goes off after about 5 minutes and is connected to the thermostat via a timed relay, .

but is this doable?

Perfectly doable, but dependent on whether the electric heat exchanger is stand alone unit and what it needs power wise? Plumbing for example might need an extra flow pump and non return valve to push the water round.

You could obviously invest in a Webasto or Ebespacher as a coolant heater that you could put on a remote switch or timer? Not sill money for good second hand units with all the necessary to fit.

Do you have a picture of the Peugeot coolant heater?
 
The cooler still is in place, and it has been blanked valve side (this was easier anyway)
This is the heater unit from most of the hdis, it is simply a little body that sits along side the engine and has no valves or additional pumps, water passes over the tips of four glow plugs (very similar to the diesel ones in the engine itself, as these can be used as a replacement) and heats up.

The pipes are 1 inch id if I remember correctly
https://www.megaparts.eu/uploads/productgalleryfile/images/960x635/DSC_87241443182159.JPG
 
Do you have a picture of the Peugeot coolant heater?

DW10 Coolant heater.jpg


Great bit of kit to have for your veg oil guzzler as well :).

Best thing is to head down to local scrappy and start rummaging through the late 306 HDI's and 307 / 407 etc for the heater block, wiring and relay to go with (wiring and block is most important). Stick it inline just before the inlet for the heater core and jobs a goodun. I'm keen on just a switched supply for such things but if you prefer a clean setup a temperature tripped switch (dependant on ignition of course) works great as well.
 
Beat me to it.. hah.. I have one sat in the garage on the dw10 with loom attached

Answered my question nicely.

Thankyou again gents
 
Ahh not a running pug then, might as well make use of it. if you've got a whole(?) car, I think there is switch somewhere on the system that operates the plugs at 100% cycle until it sees 40c, and then cycles load around 50% until it sees 60c at which point it shuts them off - just remember you don't want them on while trying to crank the engine on a frosty morning
 
View attachment 143507

Great bit of kit to have for your veg oil guzzler as well :).

Best thing is to head down to local scrappy and start rummaging through the late 306 HDI's and 307 / 407 etc for the heater block, wiring and relay to go with (wiring and block is most important). Stick it inline just before the inlet for the heater core and jobs a goodun. I'm keen on just a switched supply for such things but if you prefer a clean setup a temperature tripped switch (dependant on ignition of course) works great as well.

Oooh, looks like I will be looking for a new scrap yard to go visit, Silverlake was sh!t last trip there! All the cars were shot to bits in the pick a part yard and anything that I thought might be useful was fcuked up by sum twunt for no reason :mad: Did tell them they needed to get them swapped around soon or my next visit will be my last.
 
It's something I always say to people "go down the local scrappy", whereas in reality Silverlake is my nearest biggest scrappy as well - and it is thin pickings at best. They've got some strange "posh scrappy" M.O for the business now it seems, with their big flash glass showroom and greased up polyester salesmen. Bizarre behaviour :confused:
 
This was an obvious side effect of the egr blank, as mine was fitted with a cooler (15p), the engine now takes longer to warm up.
Now this begs the question about a coolant in line heater, dunno what they would be officially called by my Peugeot (2.0hdi) hasa non cooled egr, and a small block with 4 glow plugs in which had the sole task of bringing the coolant up to nearer running temperature faster. It goes off after about 5 minutes and is connected to the thermostat via a timed relay, .

Basically the idea is to heat the engine faster I guess for more fuel efficiency or warmer heaters faster whatever .

Now I don't feel the need for a preheater/ block heater, but is this doable? Maybe via a manual momentary switch in the cabin and via a timed relay? And possibly utilising the Water lines from the egr cooler which I assume are pre-thermostat.


IMO I don't think the removal of the EGR, and as you suggest the cooler will result in the engine taking longer to warm up. The purpose of the cooler, hence its name, is to COOL the exhaust gases before they are fed back into the inlet manifold, where temperature is crucial to fueling needs. I would suggest that in this weather they just take considerably longer then normal. And ignore the in-dash temperature gauge, it is almost useless. If you want to know what the engine is really doing fit a proper digital temperature gauge, with a proper sender unit, as a mod.

Tony
 
It's something I always say to people "go down the local scrappy", whereas in reality Silverlake is my nearest biggest scrappy as well - and it is thin pickings at best. They've got some strange "posh scrappy" M.O for the business now it seems, with their big flash glass showroom and greased up polyester salesmen. Bizarre behaviour :confused:
We were just talking about scrappies 'back in the good ol' days' at work recently, and how you'd quite happily clamber three cars up to get to something you needed, oil dripping out everywhere, usually some bloody Alsatian dog growling at you - but you try telling the kids of today that....
 
IMO I don't think the removal of the EGR, and as you suggest the cooler will result in the engine taking longer to warm up.

by it's very nature it will, because immediately the engine is turned on and on low load the exhaust gases are applying heat directly to the coolant flowing around the block.

i have a stack digital temp gauge and it takes on average an extra 5 minutes to reach running temp, in most conditions.

it will have more of an effect if you are in slow moving traffic and/or dont get a good amount of revs going,
 
We were just talking about scrappies 'back in the good ol' days' at work recently, and how you'd quite happily clamber three cars up to get to something you needed, oil dripping out everywhere, usually some bloody Alsatian dog growling at you - but you try telling the kids of today that....

I used to go to a place in Great Blakenham, exactly like that, 3 cars high and dive in, it was great! Cheap as chips for whatever you wanted and they were golden for lending you tools so long as you took em back.

It's something I always say to people "go down the local scrappy", whereas in reality Silverlake is my nearest biggest scrappy as well - and it is thin pickings at best. They've got some strange "posh scrappy" M.O for the business now it seems, with their big flash glass showroom and greased up polyester salesmen. Bizarre behaviour :confused:

What they do now with most of the cars is to strip the high value fast turn over goodies off them and then shred the rest for scrap, throw a few token motors in the pick a part yard and hardly ever turn them over, they've had two D2s in the front left hand corner for 2yrs and there is nothing good left on them, maybe an obscure trim clip or summit, but for the most part all the good stuff has gone or been broke, I was looking at a heat exchanger and noticed it had been hacked up and was no longer serviceable at all, god knows why someone did that but there was no need for it at all, same with loads of other stuff too that might have been useful.
 

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