disconnected lpg, no change, even cut off the gas at the tanks to make sure.
took to yard, took off exhausts and found left bank steaming, otherside ok. checked for performance of engine found pot 1 to be dead, check for spark all fine. removed plug, fired up and droplets of water came flying out. taken heads for pressure check.

if heads check out i'm gonna assume its block and take it from there!!!

how much will a block cost me?
is it worth replacing block?
 
i paid about £2000 for a brand new coscast short engine when you see the casting of it you can see how much better the new castings are. then fitted it myself which i actually found easier than removing the heads! i reinstalled complete with the exhaust manifolds and heat shields on
 
well the car already stands me at around 3000-3200, dunno if another 2k can be thrown at it, after all its a 96 and seen better days!

i dont mind the cost so much as the overall value for money.

do i cut my losses or continue to throw money away!
 
mine's an 02 and at the time i had no choice even tho the diagnostic was wrong ala all the f##kin experts once i linked the water pipes going to the vaporizer together all my problems where solved sorry to go on but it still tastes bitter even after nearly 12 mths
 
i wouldn,t worry about the block just yet,concentrate on the heads if they are fine,then worry about the block,personally i would put a new block in if it was me,as i love my rangie to bits even though they can be a pain,but all cars are a pain and they all have there own problems,and a new block can be picked up cheap now with the credit crunch,ive seen new coscast blocks with new cranks cam timing gear all the pistons rods and bearings going for a grand now,or even get your own block top hat lined for around £600,it,s more just about time and money.but get the heads done first and go from there..
 
i'm just trying to prepare for the worst! i'm eager to get in it again. i just love driving it and although the engine was still buggered it still felt lovely when it was cold to drive! it seemed to want to behave properly but didn't know how!!

thought it was only women who got soppy over cars!!
 
just a thort gav but when you did run up the engine did you have plenty of antifreeze? if not then the coolant be frozen and you be overheating all over again mega quick.adam
 
everything was loose and free, i dont think the coolant was a proper mix but it was around 25-30 %.

wish i could freeze it, might not go in the pots then!!! lol !!
 
i dont think it the block gav, are you sure all the water ways are clear and you get a good flow through one end out the other if bottom hose of the rad is dissconnectd and stat is out?
 
after reassembling again, the plot has thickened. it's still steaming at the ass end, filled and bled best i could, ran the car till up to temp topped up ran some more and the steam all but went away, now the tank is bubling over as appose to a steady rythmic bubbling indicating airlock in system. can't seem to get rid of this airlock (i'm assuming its still combustion gasses). the wierd thing is, when the exp. tank cap is on no water flows through the top vent of the rad. open the tank and water bubbles over. open the vent pipe on top of rad and the tank cap water comes out of rad and water goes down in exp. tank!
reconnect rad vent and cap on water dissapears from tank and gas build up in rad, open vent pipe and air or water comes out til tank is opened.

it used to come out all the time i think.

is this normal. am i going mad?

also brutus if it wasnt the block or gasket or head how is water getting in to combustion?

it's really taxing me as i dont want to spend ££££ on a new coscast block if its something else, vice versa i dont want to spend any money on other bits if the block's cack and i need a new/donor car!!

i will have to have a look at the rave cd on flow but i'm sure if the system was pressurised the water would **** out the rad, on the other hand if water comes out the top of the rad into the plenum then whats the pint in that as hot water will always rise to the top!!!

I GOT HEADACHE!!!!!!
 
getting air out is a pain i did it like this i removed main top hose from rad and filled the system until water came out of rad ie thru the engine and quickly put hose on trying not to spill! then started engine at fast tic over with heater in car set to high not sure if that makes any difference top up when level drops as thermostat opens refit cap again rev engine level should now settle allow to cool top up
 
it might of been head gasket but you already done that so that why you have the exhaust steam. you still have coolant problems i beleive, do you have another rad you can swap ova. it worth a try. also i pmd ya a message it only a thought worth looking at.
 
if you look on the rave cd at the engine cooling discription section 26 page 7, it give you the flow of the system. now if the (ive just solved that little puzzle i think, mor in a minute) water flows from the manifold to the rad will this be positive pressure or negative pressure.

** i think the small pipe inside the exp.tank is blocked, mind you water ****es out of this in the opposite or wrong way when exp.tank is under high pressure so it can't be.
 
brutusmotorsport said:
it might of been head gasket but you already done that so that why you have the exhaust steam. you still have coolant problems i beleive, do you have another rad you can swap ova. it worth a try. also i pmd ya a message it only a thought worth looking at.
Click to expand...


all your thoughts are appreciated believe me!! the deeper i look the more unclear it becomes!!
 
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