brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Could you hold your finger over the end of the pipe you should not be able to.
Could you hold your finger over the end of the pipe you should not be able to.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Do your mean the filter?
Pression de Gonflage
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I meant the little white thingie on the valve block, which I gather is the exhaust silencer. Not sure how to decide if it is blocked. Am I right in thinking that the exhaust on the valve block only lets out excess air if for example one is lowerering the suspension ? If that is correct then blocked or not, I have no excess pressure to lose. Wish I had.
To recap on my original problem. Valve block replaced, compressor replaced, air drier replaced. All faults (apparently cleared, according to EASUnlock.
To recap on my original problem. Valve block replaced, compressor replaced, air drier replaced. All faults (apparently cleared, according to EASUnlock.
Pression de Gonflage
Well-Known Member
In my recap, I should have mentioned that all four airbags had been replaced within the last 18 months. I have since picked up on Whammer's advice to check the exhaust outlet on the valve block for any pressure. None at all.
The pressure on the compressor outlet is very strong. Still the darned car won't rise off the stops. I have driven the car up and down my drive and over bumps, to try to provoke faults or "35mph." Nothing triggered.
When I change the height settings with the up & down button the 4 lights react correctly.
No reaction to my soap squirting apparatus at any of the connections that I can get at, so it looks like an expensive trip to the garage to get at the airbag connections checked. Will somebody please tell me I am wrong !
The pressure on the compressor outlet is very strong. Still the darned car won't rise off the stops. I have driven the car up and down my drive and over bumps, to try to provoke faults or "35mph." Nothing triggered.
When I change the height settings with the up & down button the 4 lights react correctly.
No reaction to my soap squirting apparatus at any of the connections that I can get at, so it looks like an expensive trip to the garage to get at the airbag connections checked. Will somebody please tell me I am wrong !
Have you cleared the faults in the eas ecu?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Is the pump actually running, and have you looked at a set of inflation valves they will help you track down leaks
First step is back to basic checks:
- Remove the exhaust silencer from valve block (not the pump inlet filter).
- Start the car with drivers door open (this stops the ECU trying to adjust).
- Pump should start on it's own unless:-
- Tank is actually full, so pump doesn't run.
- Thermal switch is bad, so ECU does not run the pump.
- Pump relay faulty.
- Check there is no air coming out of exhaust port.
- If there is air leaking, then Diaphragm valve is not working or leaking.
- Diaphragm solenoid is powered by pump relay, so should engage when pump runs
- Check the pump is actually trying to fill the tank.
- Easy way is to remove the tank feed from the valve block and check for air-flow. If yes, then refit the tank airline.
- If not then valve bock NRV-1 might be wrong way round.
- Now wait for 10mins with door open for the pump to fill the tank. It should stop when the tank exceeds 130psi.
- After pump stops, close the doors and the rear should rise first followed by fronts.
You don't put your finger over the exhaust filter for the EAS box but over the exhaust from the compressor, the brass fitting with the blue pipe will have to be unscrewed first. The exhaust feom the valve block that comes off the EAS box can be unscrewed - it'll sound like a truck each time it dumps air!
If your checking the "washer thingy what's its name... Arrrrr.... Washer.. Seal.. Membrane.... Wtf" ... You do, to see if it's leaking.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Diaphragm?
Pression de Gonflage
Well-Known Member
Good morning Mark.
Yes, all faults cleared with Mr.Storey's facility. Everything, 4 lights etc., seems correct except that the darned thing just doesn't lift off the stops. Goodly amount of pressure (by my finger gauge, at least) from the compressor outlet. Now if I can get it on M. Renault's ramp in the next couple of days I can see if there is a great 'ole in one of the pipes.
Tony. (at 46200.)
For not a lot of money you can get a pressure guage and a T piece and some airline and put it on the line to the tank. That way you can tell if you're holding air.
You could try leaving a door open for ten minutes while the tank fills and then shut it and see what moves.
You could try leaving a door open for ten minutes while the tank fills and then shut it and see what moves.
Pression de Gonflage
Well-Known Member
What diaphragm and where ?Thanks @RangeRoller dt
Pression de Gonflage
Well-Known Member
Tried leaving the door open for 30 mins. Compressor got hot but nothing else happened.
Presumably Monsieur Renault would be able to attach his airline c/w pressure gauge to the tank feed. Would a leak from one of the individual airbag feeds give the result of no pressure to any of them or would the valve block isolate it and inflate the other three ? I am anticipating discussing the options with M. Renault who of course speaks no English, and definitely no Rangeroverspeak, so it's very much a matter of the blind leading the blind, with much of the EAS jargon being outside normal French vocabulary , his and mine !
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
I still say get some emergency inflation valves and you can fault find at home or even get it up and running, and it will be cheaper than going to the garage.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Diaphragm valve In here
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/checking-eas-compressor-and-diaphragm-valve.172555/
+1 on that especially if garage doesn't know anything about the RR EAS system
No. It tpens the rears first, then the fronts and goes up in stages like that. If the rears don't shift the fronts won't.
All the valves, diaphragms and solenoid piston things are in the valve-block. There's a site called something like PaulsP38a that had a very good overview of the EAS and how it works. Worth reading.
It won't go anywhere without air. If the compressor is running and making good air then either the air is leaking out (and will burn out the compressor) or it isn't getting where it is needed. In short, the valve block is the junction of it all and the driver pack controls what opens and when based on what the EAS ECU under the seat tells it. In order to decide what to do the EAS ECU looks at the height sensors plus some other inputs like whether the doors are open or not and the speed signal from BECM to determine height setting (can be overridden to some extent by rocker switch on dash - in combination with inhibit switch next to it).
Best way to find a leak is the get it up, pull the delay relay and see what drops. If compressor won't raise it then direct connection to each bag but care will be required. Start with 50psi and then slowly work round adding 5psi at a time. As the car rises the weight transfers and the opposite corner will dip. Go over 80psi and you might blow a cap off a bag and then it is new bag time.
If bags aren't leaking then air isn't getting there. Airline to tank goes all the way down the chassis rail, over the back then back up to the reservoir tank. Exhaust blows, even a linhole leak, have been known to melt that pipe. If that happens then you're going nowhere.
If tank is filling then it might be the driver pack isn't ooening the valves. Check connections first. Driver packs can fail, especially the v8 in hot countries where it cooks the thing but it is rare. I would expect a fault though. More likely is a door ajar switch is telling it a door is open when it isn't but your diag should show that as system will be inhibited / disabled - not sure on EAS suite as I have never used it. @Saint.V8 is the expert with that although he's got newer toys these days.
