Best wishes & good luck in resolving your issue.
daphnesdad
Member
Hurrah! More updates later, but expensive diagnostics have lead to the conclusion 'it's the valves'. I'm getting my car back as it was! So I can check connections this weekend 
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
I can suppy you a valve block that works like new for a fraction of that price, but first of all as Wammers has stated make sure it is the valve block as if it isnt then you are going to have to spend out again.
Take your time and dont panic and rush into changing things that maynot need changing
daphnesdad
Member
I can suppy you a valve block that works like new for a fraction of that price, but first of all as Wammers has stated make sure it is the valve block as if it isnt then you are going to have to spend out again.
Take your time and dont panic and rush into changing things that maynot need changing
Thanks Kurt, will bear that in mind and let you know, as you say, first things first, Wammers' et al's wiring checks.
daphnesdad
Member
Hi there, so exactly where am I looking, and what am I looking for?
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Good man, i assure you my valve block will work fine if required
Good luck mate and check the plug as stated that connects the driver box to the valve block. If that is not fully home that can cause all sort of gremlins with EAS
let us know how you get on and hope you repair it without any outlay
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As Wammers has said, you need to know what the actual fault really is, valve faults are rare and usually a sign of something else.
If it just came up with "EAS Fault" and rose to wade height rather than drop to the bump stops, it's possible for example that it's corrosion in the white connector at the foot of the A post behind the kick panel on the passenger side. It's also possible it's the driver pack playing up and the connectors in the EAS box that others have mentioned..
If you have a laptop with Windows OS, you need the RSW EAS diagnostic software which is a free download and you need a connecting cable which I can supply for not a lot together with the software on CD.
If it just came up with "EAS Fault" and rose to wade height rather than drop to the bump stops, it's possible for example that it's corrosion in the white connector at the foot of the A post behind the kick panel on the passenger side. It's also possible it's the driver pack playing up and the connectors in the EAS box that others have mentioned..
If you have a laptop with Windows OS, you need the RSW EAS diagnostic software which is a free download and you need a connecting cable which I can supply for not a lot together with the software on CD.
In addition to the info in Technical Archive, read through this page http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/
There are two multi-pin connectors in the EAS Box. The one at the front connects back to the EAS ECU, and is usually less of a problem. The connector underneath the valve block (see pictures attached), connects the Driver Pack to the Solenoids that trigger the valves. If this one is intermittent, then you will get Valve Faults in the diagnostics. Clean them both with good quality Electrical Contact Cleaner.
There are two multi-pin connectors in the EAS Box. The one at the front connects back to the EAS ECU, and is usually less of a problem. The connector underneath the valve block (see pictures attached), connects the Driver Pack to the Solenoids that trigger the valves. If this one is intermittent, then you will get Valve Faults in the diagnostics. Clean them both with good quality Electrical Contact Cleaner.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
EAS software is free. Press some silver into Datatek's palm and he'll make up a lead to connect to your laptop, although you may also need an adapter.
Hi follow everyone's advice and you will sorted out and save a lot of money. Also you will learn something as I have done and one day be able to help some other poor soul and feel the satisfaction it gives
daphnesdad
Member
Well, he seems to have checked everything properly, so we're back to the valve block again. He can't find any individual valves, so is looking for s/h block. I'll check and clean the connectors, though, over the weekend, and download the EAS software. I used to have a cable, and a kicker, when I had my old P38 many years ago, but it's long gone now. Will ask Datatek nicely
daphnesdad
Member
Good man, i assure you my valve block will work fine if required
Good luck mate and check the plug as stated that connects the driver box to the valve block. If that is not fully home that can cause all sort of gremlins with EAS
let us know how you get on and hope you repair it without any outlay
Thanks, what would you like for your valve block and postage? Don't know how to start a private conversation from here!
Little envelope icon, top right in the green area.
P38Rover
Well-Known Member
Youre ready to throw in a new valve block and you dont even have any known symptoms yet? I see you have gone with the "throw some money at it" approach..
Good luck, I really hope it works out for you. Many people before you have put in brand new valve blocks and still not have had any change in their problems (such as my own issue with the fronts dancing). Probably best to get your car back and get to know it a little better until you can notice some consistent symptoms. Then maybe someone here can really help you out; instead of just plain guessing
For example, something like corroded wiring can be fixed in a half hour and a couple quids worth of wiring and heat shrink. And that wont fix itself by changing out new valve blocks how ever many times you want.
Has he checked the compressor outlet pressure by running it and putting his finger over it. Shouldn't be able to hold finger against the open end, if you can compressor U/S. Only remembered in the night but when my compressor went I had eas fault message and software gave valve block error readings. Read wammers how to in technical section for assistance, could save you a lot of time effort and money.Well, he seems to have checked everything properly, so we're back to the valve block again. He can't find any individual valves, so is looking for s/h block. I'll check and clean the connectors, though, over the weekend, and download the EAS software. I used to have a cable, and a kicker, when I had my old P38 many years ago, but it's long gone now. Will ask Datatek nicely
Youre ready to throw in a new valve block and you dont even have any known symptoms yet? I see you have gone with the "throw some money at it" approach..
Good luck, I really hope it works out for you. Many people before you have put in brand new valve blocks and still not have had any change in their problems (such as my own issue with the fronts dancing). Probably best to get your car back and get to know it a little better until you can notice some consistent symptoms. Then maybe someone here can really help you out; instead of just plain guessing
For example, something like corroded wiring can be fixed in a half hour and a couple quids worth of wiring and heat shrink. And that wont fix itself by changing out new valve blocks how ever many times you want.
Kurt will sort him out. Just make sure those pins pwood999 was on about are clean and nipped up so they grab tightly.
Then take the old one apart and refurb with an oring kit.
daphnesdad
Member
No, I'm ready to accept that a) he might be right,
b) never turn down the offer of good parts,
c) Americans are bloody rude.
b) never turn down the offer of good parts,
c) Americans are bloody rude.
daphnesdad
Member
Hm, good point - possible, but I'm assured the compressor is new(ish). I accept that doesn't mean it won't die though.
It's very hard to know exactly what has been done, as it's a case of Chinese Whispers from mechanic to mechanic to me. But shhh, Big Red (aka Timmy2) is behaving so far this weekend
No they are not, just trying to give you good advice.
