Diesel leak needs sorting should be pretty easy to find. As for EAS pipes and coils look in my "How To" at valve block rebuild link there is a diagram of colour code pipe fitment and wire runs in that.
Diesel leak needs sorting should be pretty easy to find. As for EAS pipes and coils look in my "How To" at valve block rebuild link there is a diagram of colour code pipe fitment and wire runs in that.
Well put the ones colour coded in the correct positions then you only have two to worry about. The fronts are obvious you can trace them.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
One up for the RAC, normally scratch their arse and tow to a proper garage
and the AA are no better
crumble
New Member
I know right, very helpful.
His first comment was "What on earth possessed you to buy one of these?"
He did offer to tow it to the garage because of the wonky suspension. I told him it was in hand, and he looked quite sorry for me.
Still wonky this morning. Having to use EASUnlock to get the right hand side off the ground each time I use it. Too dark and cold to play in the evenings at the moment, but next plans are:
Work out how/whether FL and RR have been swapped over somehow
Go over my valve block reassembly and check pipe location and more importantly the solenoid cap location.
Then want to re-clean and completely dry the plugs in footwells.
Then clean connectors on all height sensors.
Then check NRVs.
His first comment was "What on earth possessed you to buy one of these?"
He did offer to tow it to the garage because of the wonky suspension. I told him it was in hand, and he looked quite sorry for me.
Still wonky this morning. Having to use EASUnlock to get the right hand side off the ground each time I use it. Too dark and cold to play in the evenings at the moment, but next plans are:
Work out how/whether FL and RR have been swapped over somehow
Go over my valve block reassembly and check pipe location and more importantly the solenoid cap location.
Then want to re-clean and completely dry the plugs in footwells.
Then clean connectors on all height sensors.
Then check NRVs.
NRVs won't cause what you've got.
crumble
New Member
I'll hold you to that. It makes my jobs list a lot easier!
Thanks
NRV 1 holds pressure in the tank. Unless you are losing air pressure in the tank overnight it is fine. NRV 2 prevents air from the bags flowing into an empty tank when the inlet valve and corner valves are opened. NRV 3 prevents high pressure air from flowing into the exhaust cavity against the exhaust valve when the compressor is running.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
one of the nrv is in the other way from the other 2. have you got them in the right way?
crumble
New Member
I have indeed. Took a photo of that and everything
It does seem to be dropping after I get out now - immediately though, rather than over a long period.
I have indeed. Took a photo of that and everything
It does seem to be dropping after I get out now - immediately though, rather than over a long period.
I will say again for those who cannot read. NRVs CANNOT cause the suspension to drop. Bags leaking can, pipes leaking can, solenoid valves leaking can, the small O'ring under the solenoid valve seat leaking can. The only possible time a NRV can cause the suspension to drop, is if the tank is empty and NRV2 is duff. So that when you start up and the valves open to lift the rear end, air flows from the bags into the empty tank. That is the only possible scenario.
crumble
New Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
crumble
New Member
And a new exhaust. I left it on the drive in the rain and it ot driven over.
Presume I'd have needed to replace anyway due to white powder?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Yep, they should be replaced from time to time, you can run without if you can stand the noise
crumble
New Member
Fed up of the thing leaning so much, so decided to brave the dark and cold tonight.
Got the valve block out. Sure enough, I had put RR and FL solenoid lids back to front (RR was on FL and vice versa.)
Reassembled, then re-sprayed the plugs in the footwells, and then dried with hair dryer.
Started up, and left it all to repressurise with door open.
Sat in the car, and it all works, perfectly. Button does what iit's supposed to do and everything!!
Wait and see what happens when I drive it tomorrrow, but for the moment, it seems all good. Additionally, the new stereo works great too. Couldn't get it working with the loom adaptor I bought from Nexxia, but it works fine without. The feedback I was getting from the right door speaker was resolved by recleaning and drying the connector in the driver footwell.
Thanks so much for all help!
Got the valve block out. Sure enough, I had put RR and FL solenoid lids back to front (RR was on FL and vice versa.)
Reassembled, then re-sprayed the plugs in the footwells, and then dried with hair dryer.
Started up, and left it all to repressurise with door open.
Sat in the car, and it all works, perfectly. Button does what iit's supposed to do and everything!!
Wait and see what happens when I drive it tomorrrow, but for the moment, it seems all good. Additionally, the new stereo works great too. Couldn't get it working with the loom adaptor I bought from Nexxia, but it works fine without. The feedback I was getting from the right door speaker was resolved by recleaning and drying the connector in the driver footwell.
Thanks so much for all help!
PPP38vouge
Active Member
Hi, glad to hear that you are getting it sorted. I know from experience that the EAS can give you grief but there are some top members on this site who know what they are talking about and have also helped me out on more than one occasion, if you read up lots on the EAS system like I do it's not really that bad, it's biggest down fall is leaks, keep an eye out for them and you should be ok. Good luck,
Paul
Paul
Big grins.....
