I can definitely hear something clicking under passenger seat obvs got to be the relay still getting pp in the rx also what or where is the baud rate if you mean the sliders for idle delay they only go from 0-500

I will dig my cable out this evening (when it's cooler), and check all the serial port settings, although I heard the software sets the rate when starting, so it should not matter.

The three delay values will depend on the Laptop you are using. Defaults usually work, but I have had similar issues with other serial console devices. Not gonna explain in detail here, but if anyone is interested it's about "inter-packet delays", where the data rate is correct, but the gaps are wrong.
 
Check mine with Laptop & EAS Unlock this morning. Here's what should happen:
  1. Plugged in diagnostic cable to car.
  2. Connect FTDI USB-Serial to diagnostic cable - get 3 beeps & 35mph message.
  3. Connect USB to Laptop - another 3 beeps.
  4. Start EAS-Unlock, and select correct comm port (mine doesn't remember the correct port, but changes depending on what USB socket !!)
  5. Click Initialise and it connects - sequence is shown in screenshot below.
Just in case I did try changing the Byte Delay settings, but it seems to connect ok regardless.

Serial Port is configured for 9600 baud, 8 bit, 1 stop bit & no parity.

EAS Unlock Initialise sequence:
EASunlock Startup Sequence.png


EAS Unlock Good Idle:
EASunlock Good Idle.png
 
I will run through the process again hopefully tomorrow night and post my comparison (obviously I don’t get good idle just red) and PP in the RX
 
I’m hoping to go see a guy this weekend who has a T4 diagnostics machine…. He said it “May” enter the eas in a slightly different way to the RSW program? Anyone know if this sounds plausible????
 
I’m hoping to go see a guy this weekend who has a T4 diagnostics machine…. He said it “May” enter the eas in a slightly different way to the RSW program? Anyone know if this sounds plausible????
The basics should be the same but worth a try.
 
+1 on bad connector or ground wire. Also wondering if you have fusebox issues ?

At least T4 is telling you more, although I suspect T4 is reporting related symptoms as well as the actual root cause. It probably failing to start communications, hence reporting likely problems !!

  • F24 & F44 are the power feeds to the Delay Relay. C118 pin6 = relay ground
    • Any one of these impact the delay relay, which T4 is grouping as the same issue.
    • If the relay is toggling when you start communications, then it's more likely the ECU connections, check the relay passes 12V to ECU.
  • F33 = 12V feed to diagnostic socket.
    • This is required for Nanocom power, but maybe not for T4 or EAS Unlock ?
    • Check the fuse & wires anyway.
  • C117 Pin 18 on ECU, goes via splice S110 to ground.
    • ECU might not be powered on? - hence all the problems above.
 
Ok…. I have bridged serial comms received and serial comms transmit straight from odb2 to very near eas ecu to rule out wire breaks in those 2 . I don’t know how to check whether 12 volts are going from relay to ecu. And where does c117/8 (the black wire from pin 18) actually earth on the vehicle as I’ve tried tracing it but it disappears into the loom under dash?
 
Ok…. I have bridged serial comms received and serial comms transmit straight from odb2 to very near eas ecu to rule out wire breaks in those 2 . I don’t know how to check whether 12 volts are going from relay to ecu. And where does c117/8 (the black wire from pin 18) actually earth on the vehicle as I’ve tried tracing it but it disappears into the loom under dash?
You need more than Tx & Rx, you need the RTS signal to activate the EAS relay.
 
7FE0F0CF-5618-486D-AFFF-6BD193B32D23.jpeg
6E5A1DE6-1895-4B66-8A53-39BBD5D0656B.jpeg
CC016075-2F2A-4499-ABEF-9DE8FBB55A54.jpeg
B0376540-E808-4EF3-9E26-B305FFDC5079.jpeg
CC016075-2F2A-4499-ABEF-9DE8FBB55A54.jpeg
CC016075-2F2A-4499-ABEF-9DE8FBB55A54.jpeg
Thanks for the pic I can see something that looks like this on the passenger side inner wing so I will clean that up tomorrow. The eas relay already activates.
7FE0F0CF-5618-486D-AFFF-6BD193B32D23.jpeg
6E5A1DE6-1895-4B66-8A53-39BBD5D0656B.jpeg
 
Ok cleaned the earth still no joy,, I have a question being as I’ve just ordered another 2nd hand eas ecu before my airbag let go the air suspension was in full working order would the suspension be in full working order if the eas ecu was dead?
 
Ok cleaned the earth still no joy,, I have a question being as I’ve just ordered another 2nd hand eas ecu before my airbag let go the air suspension was in full working order would the suspension be in full working order if the eas ecu was dead?
It doesn't need OBD comms for the EAS to work
 
Right then!!!! Received replacement eas ecu, plugged it in, connected laptop and as soon as I fired up the eas unlock program the vehicle cleared faults and proceeded to raise, this is before even pressing initialise, however when initialising program still get pp in the comms and tbh the vehicle seems to be riding really high on std height mode and just seems to be behaving a little odd suspension wise. Should I now plug the old unit back in maybe?
 
Right then!!!! Received replacement eas ecu, plugged it in, connected laptop and as soon as I fired up the eas unlock program the vehicle cleared faults and proceeded to raise, this is before even pressing initialise, however when initialising program still get pp in the comms and tbh the vehicle seems to be riding really high on std height mode and just seems to be behaving a little odd suspension wise. Should I now plug the old unit back in maybe?
The new ECU probably did not have any faults recorded, it cannot clear faults all on it's own nor can the EAS unlock program clear faults if there is no comms.
A height calibration will need to be done with the new ECU as it will hold the settings for a different car.
No comms may still be down to the driver you are using in Windows if you are using a USB to serial adaptor or the adaptor itself. I certainly sounds like your old ECU is faulty but no harm in putting it back if you want to, it will still have the faults recorded that it had before you unplugged it.
 

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