When you did the soapy water test for leaks did you do the valve block as well?

I replaced the bags on mine and checked all the hose connections but it would still sometimes drop in the night (and sometimes not). I then found that I've got a leak in the valve block and so have bought a o-ring replacement kit from Rover Renovations in the states and plan to repalce all o-rings and the compressor seal and fingers crossed this will sort it.

I've also bought a bag of air dryer silica, has anyone refurbed the air dryer and is it an easy thing to do?

I've not heard of emptying air tank of water is this something that's recommended? If the air system is going to be drained then maybe something to do at the same time although don't know if there is any in there.

Dr W said:

When you did the soapy water test for leaks did you do the valve block as well?

I replaced the bags on mine and checked all the hose connections but it would still sometimes drop in the night (and sometimes not). I then found that I've got a leak in the valve block and so have bought a o-ring replacement kit from Rover Renovations in the states and plan to repalce all o-rings and the compressor seal and fingers crossed this will sort it.

I've also bought a bag of air dryer silica, has anyone refurbed the air dryer and is it an easy thing to do?

I've not heard of emptying air tank of water is this something that's recommended? If the air system is going to be drained then maybe something to do at the same time although don't know if there is any in there.

Click to expand...

I didn't try the soapy water test on the valve block. Is that a good idea, considering the electronics in there? Pretty sure I've got this problem, but I'm bored with it now so it's going to the garage to investigate when I get back from my holiday.

The act of compressing air generally releases some water from it, but I assume the design assumes the dryer removes moisture before it gets into the system, hence the lack of a drain.

Guy

I was talking to my local LR garage about it when I was picking up the car after having 4th injector replaced and he simply got a spray (those cheap gardening ones) full of soapy water and was able to accurately direct the jet so only went in gaps where seals are and this showed bubbles.

Decided to do a full replacement of o-rings since I would have to take the unit off anyway. I also ordered a bag of replacement silica for the air dryer, apparently you just unscrew top, empty old and replace with new. I reckon when I've done this and the compressor seal it sould be working ok (fingers crossed).

Then to clean out intercooler

Hi. Reading your description of faults ,I`ve a possible partial explanation.
This concerns the seeming intermittant operation of the air-pump: the pump can be mechanically o.k. but have a fault on the electric motor side. If the commutator is excessively worn some of the segments can wear/break off. The motor will not start to turn if it stops here, but with a bump it can be nudged to a point where the brushes make contact `n` off you go!
To check is not too easy, as with all intermittant faults, but can be done. Easiest with pump out of car, in warm kitchen with 12v source & tea /coffee to hand.
Take top off pump..
Apply 12v. If pump runs turn off. Try again, until pump fails to start, then gently push down on piston. The motor will make contact and try to chop your finger off!
To confirm diagnosis strip off cover from other end, from the pump. gently ease cover off. If it`s like one I had bits of carbon dust & black bits of commutator & sparkly bits of copper will drop out. It will be difficult to impossible to re-assemble; so only do this if you`ve already got a replacement handy!
Not a very clear description I`m afraid , but think you`ll get the idea.