8v_chris said:

I get beeps from the nanocom unit itself, not the dash. Could it be a simple relay issue?

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Datatek said:

No beeps from the dash means that Nanocom is not triggering the EAS relay to start the communication.
A faulty relay is possible but unlikely to have 2 with the same fault.
Without scrolling back through the thread, the white connectors in the left side passenger footwell are a common cause, if you have not already done it, cut the connectors out one wire at a time and solder them insulating with glue filled heat shrink.
The easiest test is to get the free EAS software and the inexpensive cable which will prove if the problem is the Nanocom or the car.

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8v_chris said:

Do you know which pin going into the ecu triggers the relay and where it comes out? I’d like to check it for continuity. I’ve looked at RAVE but im not great with electrical diagrams

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pwood999 said:

F24 is permanent 12V for the relay, and F44 is the main power for the EAS ECU which is switched by the relay. In normal operation with ignition on, the BECM enables the relay (pin 5), and the relay passes 12V to the EAS ECU.

To allow diagnostics, the timer-relay is triggered directly Off & On again from Pin-1 on the diagnostic connector. This resets the EAS ECU and allows either Nanocom or EAS-Unlock to start the correct data sequence.

As said above, the diagnostic lines go via C104 & C204 in Left footwell, so check them & solder the wires if necessary.

I'm not sure if the trigger to the relay needs to be 12V or a Ground signal. I will check this morning if I get time.


View attachment 299375

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pwood999 said:

In the meantime, get EAS-Unlock V3 and either buy or make the cable.

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