ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
I suppose it is... just not inside the car !
I suppose it is... just not inside the car !
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
If you drop the car often then you will wear the compressor out quicker than if its just replacing air after normal levelling.
Get some side steps if she has trouble getting in and out.
domino
Well-Known Member
If you drop the car often then you will wear the compressor out quicker than if its just replacing air after normal levelling.
I don't usually - that was just for testing purposes
10 seconds is good and normal. That would have been with a full tank. Think you had better look for a leak. Compressor maybe stopping short of full pressure, overheating feeding a leak. That would be causing the slow raising you have been getting, low air pressure. Would cause all the problems you have listed. Now maybe a good time to think about refurbing valve block to eliminate another possibility. And have a really good look at all pipes connections and bags.
domino
Well-Known Member
With regards to the pipes from the block out to the rear bags, I presume people jack up their car and put them on high axle stands to get underneath and have a proper look? Just from the location of them it looks like it's a lot easier to get it up on a ramp somehow.
Are we calling time on the idea of replacing the rear sensors completely then? Based on my original post/problem.
Are we calling time on the idea of replacing the rear sensors completely then? Based on my original post/problem.
At the moment yes, problems seem air pressure related to me. Check for leaks everywhere. You said you had diag look at live height settings, actual compared to stored. Live at any height setting should be within a couple of beats of stored up or down. Check all heights see if there are any big discrepancies at any height. If there aren't any, sensors would be ok.
domino
Well-Known Member
Okay. I'll grab the laptop and go out for a check - stored versus actual and I'll report back
domino
Well-Known Member
So I sat in the car there with EASUnlock taking some measurements.
I've noted them below however, with the 'low' profile, I had to take it a few times as every time I set it to go to low (from the calibrate screen) it came with with different heights.. sometimes quite a lot different. Anyway:
High profile (actual/stored)
FR - 139/134
FL - 118/122
RR - 126/126
RL - 123/122
Standard
FR - 114/109
FL - 98/99
RR - 100/107
RL - 106/104
Low
FR - 82/93
FL - 69/84
RR - 88/96
RL - 96/93
Access
FR - 68/66
FL - 57/58
RR - 69/75
RL - 71/71
As you can see, in 'low' mode, the values vary quite significantly. When I did one of the readings the rears were up in the 100's, then another down in the 60's, 70's.
Does this give any insight?
I've noted them below however, with the 'low' profile, I had to take it a few times as every time I set it to go to low (from the calibrate screen) it came with with different heights.. sometimes quite a lot different. Anyway:
High profile (actual/stored)
FR - 139/134
FL - 118/122
RR - 126/126
RL - 123/122
Standard
FR - 114/109
FL - 98/99
RR - 100/107
RL - 106/104
Low
FR - 82/93
FL - 69/84
RR - 88/96
RL - 96/93
Access
FR - 68/66
FL - 57/58
RR - 69/75
RL - 71/71
As you can see, in 'low' mode, the values vary quite significantly. When I did one of the readings the rears were up in the 100's, then another down in the 60's, 70's.
Does this give any insight?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Was it on a level surface? The actual height can vary by about 5mm from the measured height each time you try so you will get small differences.
The readings look a bit erratic to me, have you checked the sensor connectors are clean and dry?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Think you better change your motor description now to - not so original and well molested.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
TAKdriver
Active Member
Martin
I've just PM'd you : I should have read the forum first which would have given me a better idea of your problem ! I sympathise : I just got back down from Peterhead in similar weather and will be heading for sunny Stornoway ina week or two !!
For your consolation....or not....I have replaced the airbags and replaced the piston in my pump on my own : I have also serviced my valve block : I have not had to replace a sensor . I am therefore reasonably familiar with the operation of the system. I think that I also have a spare pump which probably needs the standard piston service ( repair kit about £20).
PM Datatek right now and ask him to send you the cable : I never go out without mine and a very old very slow laptop.
PM me and we'll get something sorted out. Unfortunately my programme is knid of tight just now but I suspect we could get something arranged in the course of the coming week.......beer money unnecessary in view of the new driving limits !
TAKdriver
TAKdriver
Active Member
I saw but wasn't biting as it's still true
It's me again.....sorry, I really should have read the whole of the thread before I replied to you. You are getting all the info you need from the guys here who know what they're talking about. Ignore me unless I can still be of any local assistance. happy to help if I can.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Definitely not WD40, contact cleaner and a toothbrushYes, with a linked double track, one rising the other falling as the wipers move so not a simple potentiometer.
domino
Well-Known Member
ahaha, sorry, I meant on the joins of the arm (elbows), not on the actual sensor itself
Castor
Trainee maniac
AHA! Thanks Datatek - that could explain a lot - double track, hmmmmmm.
<aside> Controls Engineering 101 - Stockton & Billingham Tech. 1973-ish.
"Never, never, never use resistive feedback systems anywhere where moisture, dirt, vibration and great clods of flying earth can be expected - use a non-contact system".</aside>
<another aside>In fact, never use resistive feedback at all - it fails.</another aside>
