You can make some blocks from an old broom handle with a bit of tape around the top to keep them in the bump stops then either drop to access height or if that doesn't get it low enough (would have to be something very wrong) then you can use nanocom to deflate the bags.
Once it is sitting on the blocks you can read the sensor values and see if they are in range.
If they aren't in range you're never going to make it work properly.
It's quite easy once you get your head around it.
 
I put it on extended, put blocks in (man #2 helping) selected the height below what the blocks were for and then took a photo of the live readings on my phone, then selected extended again. Don't stay down too long as it just vents all the air out and then you have to wait for the compressor to put it back. You just need to plug the readings in as target heights after that.

Blocks will hold it while you're adjusting height sensors physically rather than electronically.
 
Either use the Nanocom, or get the EAS-Unlock comms working first. The latter is easier to use for calibration adjustment.

Then you manually use Up-Down (not select stored height) until the chassis rests on the blocks to give a fixed point of reference. Alternatively you can do the same thing by measuring from Wheel Centres to the Arch Lip on each corner.

Once you set the required height manually, this gives you the actual sensor readings for the height you moved the body to. If these differ from the ECU stored readings then the ECU cannot level the car. Ideally the sensors would be almost equal between L-R.

There's videos on doing this on YouTube, but can't find them at moment.
 

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