PastyMuncher83

PastyMuncher83

Active Member
How do all,

I've been running on my newly re-fitted EAS for a couple of months now but seems i still have a leak. I have 4 new bags, new compressor & new valve block.
Also i have replaced both rear lines with 15 Bar rated vacuum tube, cut with the proper tool and chamfered with a pencil sharpener.
I remember seeing a guide to leak finding but cant find it in the technical section, can anyone help point me in the right direction for this article or did i imagine it?!
 
You have to get under the car with a spray bottle of washing-up liquid to pin-point the leak exactly, but I've found the following method works great to narrow the search: Get 4 emergency inflation valves and disconnect the four air lines which feed the bags from the valve block. Fit one valve on the end of each line and inflate to about 4.5Bar. Check that the connections on the valves don't leak by spraying them with soapy water. Once satisfied that your valves are properly sealed to the lines, leave overnight and see which corner(s) drops. Provided they don't all drop, you now know which line to follow and which bag to inspect more closely from underneath.
 
Sounds like a good place to start. I've got the valves and had a problem with the n/s rear going down so replaced the feed line. I guess the spray bottle method is just set it to high and spray everything you can get too. Will give it a try thanks
 
Henrik97 said:
Well, it worked for me. A leak at the inflation valve is very easy to detect and rectify.
Click to expand...

Yes only pulling legs. I think maybe Alan was saying fitting them permanently may lead to problems. Using them as a diagnostic aid then taking them off is another matter.
 
Aha.. Got me ;). Yes, tee'ing them in on the lines as a permanent fixture wouldn't be much use for leak finding. So to be clear, my suggestion is to pull the pipes from the valve block and fitting the inflaltion valves directly to the ends.
 
Henrik97 said:
Aha.. Got me ;). Yes, tee'ing them in on the lines as a permanent fixture wouldn't be much use for leak finding. So to be clear, my suggestion is to pull the pipes from the valve block and fitting the inflaltion valves directly to the ends.
Click to expand...

Yes a logical way of finding which area or individual bag or line is leaking. ;)
 
Well it spat it's dummy out on the way home for the first time since switching to eas.
Came up with an EAS fault left the arse end in the air and the front deflated on bump stops.
Got it home like that's as the eas kicker I bought did nothing ;(, and plug in the eas suite cleared the fault and went back to normal functioning again?!
I thought the compressor may have burned out but seems ok. I did screen grab the fault codes but had to restart the PC and lost it.
Was something like-
Vehicle has moved
LR valve stuck open.

Either way will go leak hunting on the weekend....
 
Are you sure you've been following the correct procedure for the EAS-kicker? Mine works like this: Pull over and switch ignition off. Switch ignition back on to pos.2. Plug in kicker and wait for green flash. Switch ignition off and then unplug kicker. Re-start.
 
Yes followed the instructions that came with it as above. Only difference being mine has a red LED on it.
I've started carrying the laptop with me wherever I go now!
 
PastyMuncher83 said:
Yes followed the instructions that came with it as above. Only difference being mine has a red LED on it.
I've started carrying the laptop with me wherever I go now!
Click to expand...

I am not entirely sure i don't have a kicker. But if it's anything like the Syncmate it flashes blue whilst working. Solid green if successful and solid red if it fails. If it stays red all the time i would think it does not have a connection.
 
Ok, the one I've bought says its stays red just stays on for 3 seconds then goes off for 10 and comes back on red when codes cleared. Might open it up and check connections.
Since the above incident I know get what can only be described as whale noises from the front when I've been driving for a bit and reach my destination and switch it off?! Sounds like the front airbag?!
 
PastyMuncher83 said:
Ok, the one I've bought says its stays red just stays on for 3 seconds then goes off for 10 and comes back on red when codes cleared. Might open it up and check connections.
Since the above incident I know get what can only be described as whale noises from the front when I've been driving for a bit and reach my destination and switch it off?! Sounds like the front airbag?!
Click to expand...

If it's a BBS EAS kicker lite it should work as i said. Only two kickers i know of that one and Storey Wilsons version. If yours is a cheap copy of either that is possibly why it doesn't work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Flossie
P38A Eas issues
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
ar1g3
P38A Cutting EAS lines shorter
Replies
4
Views
635
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
B
P38A P38A 1996 4.6 Auto HSE EAS slow to lower and rise + random height change to extended height + compressor running too frequently.
Replies
9
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
IandiscoV8
P38A EAS Fault finding threads or files.
2 3
Replies
55
Views
5K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
ar1g3
P38A Which EAS repair kit to get?
Replies
18
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr