A quick update, I plugged into a mates P38 and the software ran as expected. Rx and Tx values running in both columns so lead is good and the OBD port on my vehicle is duff with corrosion. I’ll try and clean with rat tail and abrasive paper then if still no Rx signal change the OBD socket....... Can’t say I’m looking forward to that! I’ll let you know.
 
Richdove said:
A quick update, I plugged into a mates P38 and the software ran as expected. Rx and Tx values running in both columns so lead is good and the OBD port on my vehicle is duff with corrosion. I’ll try and clean with rat tail and abrasive paper then if still no Rx signal change the OBD socket....... Can’t say I’m looking forward to that! I’ll let you know.
Click to expand...
You could try lemon juice then wash it with a water spray then contact cleaner. Did you check the back of the socket?
 
IPA is best, or electrical contact cleaner (like break cleaner) not anything with a grease or silicone in it
 
Baking soda or vinegar might clean the connector corrosion, but you run the risk of damaging the plating so it will re-occur. Better to replace the connector, and probably cheaper than cleaning materials in the long run.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-Und...520988?hash=item23cc6c8b5c:g:IckAAOSwlPld6~9-


s-l1600.jpg
 
That looks like a better idea, the one I’ve got coming today/tomorrow has 16 flying wires that I’ll need to solder and shrink sleeve or put bullet connectors on. That’s a week away time I order it and get it. What to do ........
 
You stick with the fly leads, those little crimp connectors are a nightmare to crimp tight enough to get into the housing.
 
Popped the panel down and got a look at the back of the OBD socket, looks ok, no corrosion as far as I can see. I’m thinking what’s next after I change the OBD socket and there’s still no return signal? I guess I’ll cross that bridge tomorrow......
EBA91363-9CD9-46AF-A7BA-DAC28B099169.jpeg
 
Richdove said:
Popped the panel down and got a look at the back of the OBD socket, looks ok, no corrosion as far as I can see. I’m thinking what’s next after I change the OBD socket and there’s still no return signal? I guess I’ll cross that bridge tomorrow......View attachment 230209
Click to expand...

It looks wet? and the pink/yellow one look like it has a nick in it?
 
Richdove said:
Popped the panel down and got a look at the back of the OBD socket, looks ok, no corrosion as far as I can see. I’m thinking what’s next after I change the OBD socket and there’s still no return signal? I guess I’ll cross that bridge tomorrow......View attachment 230209
Click to expand...

Someone hasn't replaced the delay timer with a standard relay to stop it self-levelling?
 
+1. If they have replaced timer relay to stop self levelling then diagnosis definitely cannot start.

What does othe side of connection look like ?
 
Richdove said:
Grrr, that’s over my head.... OBD connector and relays?
Click to expand...

The timer relay for the self leveling when the car is locked, its a tall relay under the passenger seat, if that has an ordinary relay fitted the diag will not work slide the seat back and you should see it.
xtndtimer-jpg.219785
 
E3DCD627-1161-456C-B8D8-2FEF2265180A.jpeg
pwood999 said:
+1. If they have replaced timer relay to stop self levelling then diagnosis definitely cannot start.

What does othe side of connection look like ?
Click to expand...
Hi there! In answer to the timer question there has been no work on the vehicle on that system in the 6 years I’ve had it. Pic of back side of connector attached.
I took the vehicle to a shooting buddy of mine who runs a garage and is an ex LR tech. I got him to connect his diagnostic to the port to see if he could read it. He could see some but not EAS, Engine, Gearbox and body control. It suggests the connector but I have a niggling doubt (it’s a P38 after all) I cut the connector off and before soldering the new one back I continuity checked pin to wire. The connector rang out on the 10 pins.
Could it be a duff levelling relay? Any other thoughts?
 
Pins 1, 11 & 12 are all that matter for EAS ECU.
  • Pin 1 goes to Pin 3 on the timer relay. This needs to be triggered for EAS Diagnostics to start.
  • Pins 11 & 12 are the transmit & receive data lines to the ECU.
  • All three go via connectors C104 & C204 in the left footwell, which also cause diagnostic issues if corroded.


upload_2021-2-6_12-22-26.png
 
Many thanks, I’ll find those connectors and check for corrosion. In the meantime I found fuse 44 blown, air suspension. Perhaps if I’d checked fuse 44 before I cut the OBD connector off?
 
Richdove said:
Many thanks, I’ll find those connectors and check for corrosion. In the meantime I found fuse 44 blown, air suspension. Perhaps if I’d checked fuse 44 before I cut the OBD connector off?
Click to expand...
If the OBD connector was corroded, it was corroded. You'd have had to sort it out permanently sooner or later.

Still, fix fuse 44 and see where that gets you.... post the results!
 
0AD66E69-38D1-4E37-9814-A80BECA79CD3.jpeg
pwood999 said:
Pins 1, 11 & 12 are all that matter for EAS ECU.
  • Pin 1 goes to Pin 3 on the timer relay. This needs to be triggered for EAS Diagnostics to start.
  • Pins 11 & 12 are the transmit & receive data lines to the ECU.
  • All three go via connectors C104 & C204 in the left footwell, which also cause diagnostic issues if corroded.
Here’s a pic of the worst of the 2 connectors, not pretty

View attachment 230240
Click to expand...
 
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