M

mwbm

New Member
Hi guys,

Apologies in advance for the length of this post.

Right, My suspension has been playing silly buggers for a while now and I'm running out of ideas.

Started off with the usual set of issues (lights flash nothing happens etc).

Compressor replaced along with a full set of new airbags. Sorted! Or so I thought.....

The main problem now is the compressor won't run on its own, but will run by bridging the relay or using the EASunlock software.

I've tested both the pressure and thermal switches on the compressor both of which were fine. The compressor itself was new from Land Rover.
I then cleaned all the plugs in the EAS box, passenger footwell and ECU.

Still no joy.

Replaced ECU

Still nothing.

I found on ebay a full EAS box with everything in (valve block, drive pack, compressor the lot) which I bought for less than the price of a compressor. Fitted it today and everything started working as it should. Compressor fired up straight away. Only thing i noticed was the compressor seemed to be running too much. 30secs on 5secs off, continuously, even after the system was fully pressurised.

I then put my old (the one i owned first, from Land Rover) compressor on it to see if made a difference. Went back to not running on its own. :mad:

So i put the other compressor back on. Same :mad::mad::mad::doh::doh::doh:

So now after it all working perfectly this afternoon I'm back to square one.:(

Only thing that happened that was a bit odd is I had EASunlock running and it randomly threw up every fault in the dictionary, like when you read it for the first time, almost like it had reset itself??

Any ideas would be greatly received

Oh and I put a new battery on this morning as well.
 
what's most likely is that both compressors are a bit dodgy. you can get an overhaul kit for not much online. or try switching around just the driver packs. or clean the connectors at the EAS ecu under the passenger seat.
 
One of the compressors was brand new from land rover, and Ive had two other compressors on it as well. I would be rather unlucky if all 3 were dodgy. Already cleaned the ECU multiplug and swapped out the ecu as well.

Will try swapping just the drive packs.
 
dave4x4 said:
I would fit a pressure gauge first so you can see what is going on.
Click to expand...
Yep i'd do that too
228162_202967346410090_100000904773276_555862_6979381_n.jpg


As you can see, my tank is low
 
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The two second hand ones could have worn barrels or teflon piston rings (easy to replace) the new one may be faulty = square one. Do you lock the EAS in the software ? I leave mine unlocked and disconnect but making sure I finish on the height setting on the dash. If the compressors work with it bridged on the relay it may well be the thermal cut out has gave up inside the brush end of the compressor, you can get round this by earthing the small black lead leading from the compressor, theres an earthing nut down the side of the EAS box.
 
P38A4.6 said:
The two second hand ones could have worn barrels or teflon piston rings (easy to replace) the new one may be faulty = square one. Do you lock the EAS in the software ? I leave mine unlocked and disconnect but making sure I finish on the height setting on the dash. If the compressors work with it bridged on the relay it may well be the thermal cut out has gave up inside the brush end of the compressor, you can get round this by earthing the small black lead leading from the compressor, theres an earthing nut down the side of the EAS box.
Click to expand...


For your information. Small black lead from compressor should already be earthed to position E0557 on inner wing. To cut out a duff thermal switch you need to earth Orange lead from compressor, WITHOUT removing it from plug. But if you do and leave it like that, have a fire extinguisher handy.
 
wammers said:
For your information. Small black lead from compressor should already be earthed to position E0557 on inner wing. To cut out a duff thermal switch you need to earth Orange lead from compressor, WITHOUT removing it from plug. But if you do and leave it like that, have a fire extinguisher handy.
Click to expand...
Spot on wammers:cool:. Didn't even read that he wasn't earthing the "correct lead"

_110826-4x4-incendie.jpg
 
I really need to change those oil cooler and steering pump leaking lines before my under hood extinguisher serves ;)
 
996TURBO said:
I really need to change those oil cooler and steering pump leaking lines before my under hood extinguisher serves ;)
Click to expand...

Think main problem with V8 is transmission fluid getting on cats. They burn nicely i believe.:D:D:D
 
hi!
i am new to this forum, this summer i bought a 1999 range rover diesel automatic, which had blown transmision, replaced it and had no problem till now.
i have the same problems as mwbm , i had replaced piston seal on compresor, renew the valve block (new orings and diaphragma), and when all the work was done i did fire up the rangie and it took around 10min to fully raise from the ground and i thought this must be because tank was empty and bags too, but now it always take 5-10 min to raise up..the light for standard ride height is constantly flashing but the compresor sometimes just doesnt work. Few days ago hard error begin flashing (55km/h, eas error) and now i am out of ideas what doesnt work, because i also tested the thermal cut out on compresor and it is working fine. I also did wiring the pin 1 and 8 and compresor turns on and sometimes lift up the car. So i do not know is this problem caused by ecu or somthing else?? i would be really thankfull for all the anwsers :D (by the way..front bags are good max 3years old(no leaking), rear were replaced this summer with new).
and sory for my bad english (i am from Slovenia) :D
BR, Nejc
 
nejc003 said:
hi!
i am new to this forum, this summer i bought a 1999 range rover diesel automatic, which had blown transmision, replaced it and had no problem till now.
i have the same problems as mwbm , i had replaced piston seal on compresor, renew the valve block (new orings and diaphragma), and when all the work was done i did fire up the rangie and it took around 10min to fully raise from the ground and i thought this must be because tank was empty and bags too, but now it always take 5-10 min to raise up..the light for standard ride height is constantly flashing but the compresor sometimes just doesnt work. Few days ago hard error begin flashing (55km/h, eas error) and now i am out of ideas what doesnt work, because i also tested the thermal cut out on compresor and it is working fine. I also did wiring the pin 1 and 8 and compresor turns on and sometimes lift up the car. So i do not know is this problem caused by ecu or somthing else?? i would be really thankfull for all the anwsers :D (by the way..front bags are good max 3years old(no leaking), rear were replaced this summer with new).
and sory for my bad english (i am from Slovenia) :D
BR, Nejc
Click to expand...

A gauge on the #6 line is the only way to know what's going on.

Maybe you have a leak on that melted line (very often on diesel with a bad center exhaust).

I've seen that 4 times on a basis of 100 P38...
 
nejc003 said:
hi!
i am new to this forum, this summer i bought a 1999 range rover diesel automatic, which had blown transmision, replaced it and had no problem till now.
i have the same problems as mwbm , i had replaced piston seal on compresor, renew the valve block (new orings and diaphragma), and when all the work was done i did fire up the rangie and it took around 10min to fully raise from the ground and i thought this must be because tank was empty and bags too, but now it always take 5-10 min to raise up..the light for standard ride height is constantly flashing but the compresor sometimes just doesnt work. Few days ago hard error begin flashing (55km/h, eas error) and now i am out of ideas what doesnt work, because i also tested the thermal cut out on compresor and it is working fine. I also did wiring the pin 1 and 8 and compresor turns on and sometimes lift up the car. So i do not know is this problem caused by ecu or somthing else?? i would be really thankfull for all the anwsers :D (by the way..front bags are good max 3years old(no leaking), rear were replaced this summer with new).
and sory for my bad english (i am from Slovenia) :D
BR, Nejc
Click to expand...

Either you have a leak or the compressor is shot:)
 
mwbm said:
Hi guys,

Apologies in advance for the length of this post.

Right, My suspension has been playing silly buggers for a while now and I'm running out of ideas.

Started off with the usual set of issues (lights flash nothing happens etc).

Compressor replaced along with a full set of new airbags. Sorted! Or so I thought.....

The main problem now is the compressor won't run on its own, but will run by bridging the relay or using the EASunlock software.

I've tested both the pressure and thermal switches on the compressor both of which were fine. The compressor itself was new from Land Rover.
I then cleaned all the plugs in the EAS box, passenger footwell and ECU.

Still no joy.

Replaced ECU

Still nothing.

I found on ebay a full EAS box with everything in (valve block, drive pack, compressor the lot) which I bought for less than the price of a compressor. Fitted it today and everything started working as it should. Compressor fired up straight away. Only thing i noticed was the compressor seemed to be running too much. 30secs on 5secs off, continuously, even after the system was fully pressurised.

I then put my old (the one i owned first, from Land Rover) compressor on it to see if made a difference. Went back to not running on its own. :mad:

So i put the other compressor back on. Same :mad::mad::mad::doh::doh::doh:

So now after it all working perfectly this afternoon I'm back to square one.:(

Only thing that happened that was a bit odd is I had EASunlock running and it randomly threw up every fault in the dictionary, like when you read it for the first time, almost like it had reset itself??

Any ideas would be greatly received

Oh and I put a new battery on this morning as well.
Click to expand...

I'd be looking for broken wires or pins pushed back in the connectors in the EAS box:)
 
and i have one more question for now :D a litle bit offtopic but anyway..i am thinking about coil over conversion, because wit this i can evade many problems in the future (i think that this EAS is very good when it is working but when it doesnt in some cases you cant even normally drive back home and there so much parts that you cant know which one is to replace if something is not working (like in my case)). is there big difrence in driving on EAS or coils?
 
nejc003 said:
and i have one more question for now :D a litle bit offtopic but anyway..i am thinking about coil over conversion, because wit this i can evade many problems in the future (i think that this EAS is very good when it is working but when it doesnt in some cases you cant even normally drive back home and there so much parts that you cant know which one is to replace if something is not working (like in my case)). is there big difrence in driving on EAS or coils?
Click to expand...
That's not true if you get some emergency inflation valves. I always carry a set in the glove box (MARS kit).

Yes there's a big difference in driving because you're going back to stone age...

More vibes from the diff, more body roll, less comfortable...That's what my customers coming for a conversion back to air complains about.
 
and one more thing that i forogot to mentoin it is when ecu is contected hard fault is constantly beping and flashing (when i had my first eas fault it only beped once for fault and once for speed limit) but now it is just repeting, when two erors are beped on the dash second or two is silence then again that ugly noise beep beep :D). Does this sound like an ecu needs replacment?
Where does this line melt? where should i search this? but if the line was melted wouldnt be strange that on some ocasions rangie rises up?
 
nejc003 said:
and one more thing that i forogot to mentoin it is when ecu is contected hard fault is constantly beping and flashing (when i had my first eas fault it only beped once for fault and once for speed limit) but now it is just repeting, when two erors are beped on the dash second or two is silence then again that ugly noise beep beep :D). Does this sound like an ecu needs replacment?
Where does this line melt? where should i search this? but if the line was melted wouldnt be strange that on some ocasions rangie rises up?
Click to expand...

No, Ecu replacement is rarely mandatory.
Land Rover screwed many people with that when communication wasn't possible with the ECU (often due to bad connections on diagnostic plug or greenish wires in that zone)

That a buzzer noise comes from behind the speedo and i think about installing a pot to reduce it's noise (i don't like the buzzer for something as silly as windscreen liquid low).

It melts near the center exhaust on the rear crossmember. In a place that isn't easy of access. Usually i test the pressure and at first doubt run a test line outside of the vehicle with a 10 meters roll of 6mm pipe directly from valve block to EAS tank but running on RHD side (in order to avoid center exhaust) if i go for replacement.

I've seen melted lines making some strange things because until pressure builds up very high, it's fine (let's say 6 bars), then it goes wrong. It's always a tiny hole...

Why did land rover went cheapy and didn't run heat insulation on the all length of those 2 lines (EAS tank and rear RHD spring)?
 
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