You've got what's known as a 'soft-fault' which is the prelude to a 'hard fault' when it will drop you down on to the bump stops for a very 'interesting' drive home. If you have a bad leak you're goin to wear out your compressor pretty soon. You need to get the fault read and cleared first chance you get.
The LR dealer will charge you around £50 for the pleasure of telling you that 'the pressure switch is not changing state' which actually means your compressor is staying on too long as a) its knackered or b) you've got a bad leak.
If you do go to a dealer don't let him fix the problem there and then unless its a leaking hose or collet (they'll either try to sell you a new compressor or airbags). Get it reset and come back on here with the fault and you'll get good honest advice. Almost everything with EAS can be sorted by yourself and step by step instructions are here if you use the search function.
There is a free sofware download available on Rangerovers.net that allows you to sort out any of the faults with EAS using your laptop and a lead that can be bought off ebay or made by yourself. Its a bit tricky to set up but very good when you get it going.
Alternatively there are two off the shelf products that you can throw in your glove box and always have with you: the EAS Buddy from the USA (sold through rover-renovations.com) and Blackbox Solutions EAS Kicker from Cyprus.
The Buddy is a very easy to use simple fault resetter. The Kicker is the most sophisticated of the standalone systems giving you exactly the same fault code reading and resetting capability as the main LR dealer (but only for EAS) in a package the same size as an old mobile phone.
I have a Kicker for sale if you're interested, check them out on blackbox-solutions.com (Its surplus to requirements as I've bought their faultmate extreme MSV2 which allows you read and reset all faults, not just EAS)
