Looks like it, rusty too the solenoid was full of brown dust too..

Is there a way to test the solenoids with a meter to check their operation?

thks.
A 9 volt battery connected briefly across the coil will tell you if it's operating.
 
Had more of a look, the dryer looks ok inside everything is intact no dust or rust present

using EAS unlock software I can raise/lower the car manually the car will lower with the diaphragm solenoid connected and disconnected, in both scenarios the air escapes through the 4.0mm pipe..

The diaphragm solenoid does click when powered directly.

rather peculiar fault..
 
Had more of a look, the dryer looks ok inside everything is intact no dust or rust present

using EAS unlock software I can raise/lower the car manually the car will lower with the diaphragm solenoid connected and disconnected, in both scenarios the air escapes through the 4.0mm pipe..

The diaphragm solenoid does click when powered directly.

rather peculiar fault..
A strange one, none of the galleries in the block bunged up? Diaphragm valve the right way round?
 
+1 on only use 9V battery on solenoids, or do it via the driver pack so they het the "hit & drop" waveform.

The diaphragm solenoid is the only one that can be tested with 12V, because it's wired in parallel with the pump.
 
I agree with all the above but. Why does she drop from standard to access no problem but slowly from wade to standard?
Does the exhaust from wade go a different route? I thought all exhausts went through the dryer to dry the drier?
 
I agree with all the above but. Why does she drop from standard to access no problem but slowly from wade to standard?
Does the exhaust from wade go a different route? I thought all exhausts went through the dryer to dry the drier?
Yes all exhaust air goes the same route. No idea why they sometimes do this, but my green P38 has done it a few times recently.
 
Really peculiar to be honest i've had EAS issues before and managed to find the fault, usually quite quickly this has me stumped to be honest..

Only thing else i can think of is either an issue with the solenoids or the eas ecu..

the latter from what i recall rarelt goes wrong, i've had a look at it no corrosion of moisture issues.

might get a 2nd hand valveblock and go from there.
 
Really peculiar to be honest i've had EAS issues before and managed to find the fault, usually quite quickly this has me stumped to be honest..

Only thing else i can think of is either an issue with the solenoids or the eas ecu..

the latter from what i recall rarelt goes wrong, i've had a look at it no corrosion of moisture issues.

might get a 2nd hand valveblock and go from there.
EAS ECU failures are pretty rare but the driver pack can play up and the connectors in the EAS box definitely give problems. Worth also checking the earth points under/near the EAS box.
 
Mine did this again yesterday evening. About 45 seconds to go from High to Standard.
 
conclusion to the issue..

Seems all along it was the diapragm valve causing the issuel!!

Replaced the diapragm and seal and she's going up and more importantly coming back down and it's exhausting out of where it should..

So there we are.

Happy now one less issue off the list! :)

cheers gents for all the advices, appreciated..
 
conclusion to the issue..

Seems all along it was the diapragm valve causing the issuel!!

Replaced the diapragm and seal and she's going up and more importantly coming back down and it's exhausting out of where it should..

So there we are.

Happy now one less issue off the list! :)

cheers gents for all the advices, appreciated..
Nice one Henry :)
 
now it won't calibrate, seems my rear sensors are going out of range..

FL - 105 FR 106

RL -156 RR 116.

Above are calibration bits, seems the RL sensor is giving issues.
 
now it won't calibrate, seems my rear sensors are going out of range..

FL - 105 FR 106

RL -156 RR 116.

Above are calibration bits, seems the RL sensor is giving issues.
Bent arm, duff sensor or corroded connector are all possibilities.
 

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