NicP38 said:

Thanks to all for your replies,
I very much appreciate your advice.

I’ve checked the high sensor readings with the software. Seems OK to me. I’ll check the compressor output this weekend. As the car don’t drop I developed the following battle plan:

I’ve ordered a sealing kit for the valve block, new piston and new rings for the compressor and also a new pressure switch. Some lube for the new rings and loctite for the pressure switch bolt and the inlet filter… and also a new air dryer. I thought it won’t do any bad to replace it if the valve block is overhauled.
If this won’t cure the problem I’ll sadly go for the driver pack. There is something in the back on my mind telling me it is the driver pack. Hope not.

I’ll keep you informed of developments.

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NicP38 said:

Thanks to all for your replies,
I very much appreciate your advice.

I’ve checked the high sensor readings with the software. Seems OK to me. I’ll check the compressor output this weekend. As the car don’t drop I developed the following battle plan:

I’ve ordered a sealing kit for the valve block, new piston and new rings for the compressor and also a new pressure switch. Some lube for the new rings and loctite for the pressure switch bolt and the inlet filter… and also a new air dryer. I thought it won’t do any bad to replace it if the valve block is overhauled.
If this won’t cure the problem I’ll sadly go for the driver pack. There is something in the back on my mind telling me it is the driver pack. Hope not.

I’ll keep you informed of developments.

Click to expand...

kooky_guy said:

Or heaven forbid, the fault could actually be caused by precisely what the switch is reporting - ie insufficient pressure to trip the pressure switch!

I thought replacement pressure switches were nearer £30 anyway?

Check the compressor output first - is cheapest.

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eightinavee said:

That should give a constantly low fault.There were some faulty replacement switches around a few years ago too,but I cant remember what they did or didnt do.
I dont see much of P38 EAS anymore,(Thankfully - I did an awful lot of it) I guess I should have a clear out of all the bits.There must be about 40 compressors,5 valve blocks,various height sensors and a few ecu's.......

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Datatek said:

You could always donate the bits to me, then I could offer an exchange recon service

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kooky_guy said:

Or me! I keep being outbid on EAS bits to overhaul on fleabag.

I think it was Storey that told me that the 'Pressure Signal is constantly high' was a bit misleading and really just meant that the switch isn't reporting a change of state - ie the correct pressure isn't being reached. It doesn't actually mean it's constantly high - it reports the same if it's constantly low.

A lot of the fault messages need a bit of interpretation. But you all have far more hands on knowedge than me so I'll bow to your combined wisdoms. I'm still struggling to replace my propshaft UJs - bleeding things.

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wammers said:

This is very true. But there is also a pressure constanly low fault. Most faults Eg: FL stuck open or FR stuck closed. Simply mean something the ECU expected to happen within a certain timespan, has not actually happened. Most of the valve stuck open or closed problems stem from lack of air pressure. People then refurbish their valve blocks ( not a bad thing to do) but very rarely if ever do the valves sick in any direction shut or closed. Usually a compressor with low or no output is the problem in those cases. It would seem however, that although the driver pack has no connection to the compressor circuit and pressure switch, other than it activates the diaphragm solenoid, malfunctions within it can cause the ECU to throw a tantrum. First job if any EAS system fails and the vehicle drops to the bump stops, other than a very obvious bag explosion, is to check for air pressure. If there is no air pressure nothing can work.

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NicP38 said:

Here an update of my EAS problem.
This weekend I rebuilt my EAS compressor.
The pump is “only” 5 years old and looked like as attention wasn't urgently needed. Piston seal was ok, cylinder and o-rings too. Anyway I changed everything. The compressor pumps a little bit faster (I think) but the problem is still present. It runs almost all the time. The car still doesn’t move at all during the night (when parked of course).
So the next step will be overhauling the valve block incl. pressure switch and probably changing the Driver Pack at the same time.
If I had an air leak in the air reservoir would the car drop on the bumps overnight?

I think most of you already went through a compressor repair but maybe the pictures I’ve taken can help someone:

By the way could somebody explain to me how to insert pictures in a thread without attaching them?:doh:

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