tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Wasn't that his compressor connector?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
There's three connector's on the driver pack.
Attachments
mikerajjers
Well-Known Member
Right, I've ckecked this. CDL test 1 and 2 pass. Door adjar test 1 and 2 pass. Didn't do key switch test as on other door.
CDL motor test... I am getting an initial 28-30ohms and drops down to a steady 2.7ohms. Which is less than the resistance in the chart.
mikerajjers
Well-Known Member
How do I get to the other connectors on the driver pack? Does the valve block need to come out?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
You may get to them with the block loosened.
The block needs to come out . . . . . .. unless you have tiny weeny & strong long fingers.
The problem is this:
The connector is at the bottom, next to the pressure switch:
And for clarity, the inside of the driver pack looks like the picture below.
6 wires in middle are from the ECU.
12 wires at bottom right are the solenoids.
The problem is this:
- ECU tries to trigger height changes & sends 12V signals to the driver pack input (connector at front of housing).
- Note: the Driver pack to solenoid signals are NOT 12v but pulsed waveforms.
- If driver pack to solenoid connections are intermittent the valves don't respond properly, so heights don't change.
- ECU flags various faults such as "valve stuck open, valve stuck closed, etc."
- As the faults mount up, after a while the ECU goes into soft fault mode, and flashes the four LED's at you !!
- Next time you start & drive the valve block connections are ok, so the "soft fault" disappears until later !!
- The connector pins & sockets are loose inside the housing, even though the housing seems tight.
- You need to use a spare pin such as spare pressure switch, to test the socket fit one by one.
- The wires that go inside the driver pack have bad solder connections on the PCB.
- In this case you either spend months digging out the PCB, or replace the driver pack.
The connector is at the bottom, next to the pressure switch:
And for clarity, the inside of the driver pack looks like the picture below.
6 wires in middle are from the ECU.
12 wires at bottom right are the solenoids.
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mikerajjers
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your indepth explanation pwood999. I am getting a better understanding of how the system works and quite enjoying the problem solving. I´m not really confident I will be able to repair the driver pack so I may be better off buying a new one. Are they expensive or even possible to buy new?
I have been reading some instructions how to remove the valve block recently as I was planning to replace the o-rings and overhaul the compressor. It seems to work ok but I thought it would be a good preventative measure. I have been waiting for the kit since December and forgot to collect it from the bloomin post office on Friday! Some parts take ages to arrive from the UK since Brexit, which has become very inconvenient for my land rover ownership.
Just another quick question... I read that the system needs to be de-pressurrised before removing the valve block. Is there a way round this as I don´t have a nanocom yet?
Thank you to everyone who has been helping, I value your contributions very much.
I have been reading some instructions how to remove the valve block recently as I was planning to replace the o-rings and overhaul the compressor. It seems to work ok but I thought it would be a good preventative measure. I have been waiting for the kit since December and forgot to collect it from the bloomin post office on Friday! Some parts take ages to arrive from the UK since Brexit, which has become very inconvenient for my land rover ownership.
Just another quick question... I read that the system needs to be de-pressurrised before removing the valve block. Is there a way round this as I don´t have a nanocom yet?
Thank you to everyone who has been helping, I value your contributions very much
.tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
You don't need Nanocom, Pm @datatec for his cable and Eas unlock disc.There is a depressurise facility, or just wear eye protection and press in the collets and pull the pipe's out.take a photo first so you put them back in the right place.Thanks for your indepth explanation pwood999. I am getting a better understanding of how the system works and quite enjoying the problem solving. I´m not really confident I will be able to repair the driver pack so I may be better off buying a new one. Are they expensive or even possible to buy new?
I have been reading some instructions how to remove the valve block recently as I was planning to replace the o-rings and overhaul the compressor. It seems to work ok but I thought it would be a good preventative measure. I have been waiting for the kit since December and forgot to collect it from the bloomin post office on Friday! Some parts take ages to arrive from the UK since Brexit, which has become very inconvenient for my land rover ownership.
Just another quick question... I read that the system needs to be de-pressurrised before removing the valve block. Is there a way round this as I don´t have a nanocom yet?
Thank you to everyone who has been helping, I value your contributions very much
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There should be coloured labels on each pipe. Position is in diagram below (this is already posted many times, but here it is again for good luck). I never bother to de-pressurise properly anymore. Just unplug compressor, and then put the car to access mode to reduce to minimum. Then do as Alan said and pull the pipes. (push collet into the block & release pipe)
Next undo 3 bolts holding the block into the housing & lift it out !! If you have petrol cruise control, you need to remove the two screws holding the bracket to the EAS housing first.
Next undo 3 bolts holding the block into the housing & lift it out !! If you have petrol cruise control, you need to remove the two screws holding the bracket to the EAS housing first.
mikerajjers
Well-Known Member
ok, cheers mate! I´ve found a new driverpack off fleabay for around 100pounds so will wait till that arrives and then remove valve block and replace the unit. It will probably be a couple of weeks till it gets to the EU and clears customs.
mikerajjers
Well-Known Member
Right, I changed wheels today and the air bags are properly buggered. Perhaps not quite leaking but they are totally perished. I will change these first, then monitor whether the EAS LEDs flash up again and if so my replacement driver pack should arrive by then. Parts for the compressor and valve overhaul have arrived! Hopefully the refresh of these parts will get the EAS working great for years to come.
Island 4x4 for the air bags. Dunlop are the originals. Don't forget to get new clips. There's a post in technical archive on how to replace . Did mine this way. 21/2 hrs to do front and rear, Oh plus an overnight stay in hospital. But that's a different tale
mikerajjers
Well-Known Member
Island 4x4 for the air bags. Dunlop are the originals. Don't forget to get new clips. There's a post in technical archive on how to replace . Did mine this way. 21/2 hrs to do front and rear, Oh plus an overnight stay in hospital. But that's a different tale
That is a good shout! I was gonna buy from Paddocks but the fronts are 10 pounds cheaper each from island. Plus their airfreight is cheaper. Cheers! What did you do... I think I may have read a post about what happened months ago but can't remember
domino
Well-Known Member
The block needs to come out . . . . . .. unless you have tiny weeny & strong long fingers.
The problem is this:
So there's two most common possibilities:
- ECU tries to trigger height changes & sends 12V signals to the driver pack input (connector at front of housing).
- Note: the Driver pack to solenoid signals are NOT 12v but pulsed waveforms.
- If driver pack to solenoid connections are intermittent the valves don't respond properly, so heights don't change.
- ECU flags various faults such as "valve stuck open, valve stuck closed, etc."
- As the faults mount up, after a while the ECU goes into soft fault mode, and flashes the four LED's at you !!
- Next time you start & drive the valve block connections are ok, so the "soft fault" disappears until later !!
I have two driver packs with problem-2 that I'm still trying to de-pot & repair, plus two others that had problem 1 and now work since i gently squeezed the 12 sockets inside the housing.
- The connector pins & sockets are loose inside the housing, even though the housing seems tight.
- You need to use a spare pin such as spare pressure switch, to test the socket fit one by one.
- The wires that go inside the driver pack have bad solder connections on the PCB.
- In this case you either spend months digging out the PCB, or replace the driver pack.
The connector is at the bottom, next to the pressure switch:
And for clarity, the inside of the driver pack looks like the picture below.
6 wires in middle are from the ECU.
12 wires at bottom right are the solenoids.
View attachment 233683
I've found it tends to be that big electrolytic that fails so just digging the pot out of that area and replacing it works wonders.
With my heart problems and arthritis I b*ggered myself up and collapsed
Lucky for me I have a brilliant neighbour who works for beer tokens and completed all the work for me Me I got a Saturday night in hospital on morphine tripping the light fantastictomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
New thread required,how knackered are you, bit like Top Trump's.With my heart problems and arthritis I b*ggered myself up and collapsed
All the above is in a thread of mine somewhereNew thread required,how knackered are you, bit like Top Trump's.
