R

Range0815

New Member
Hello,
i will change, because my EAS system makes trouble, the Drive Box, the Air suspension ECU and the Air suspension Delay Relay for my RR P38.
Should i put the battery out of the car?
Can i put then my old parts out and then the new parts into the Range Rover?
I'm a very bit fearfully that i make an big mistake and the new parts will be distroyed.
Or must i go to my local dealer that i can use his testbook for mutch money?
Regards
Range0815
 
Before you do anything get the EAS software. Then you can clear any problems yourself. DATATEK on here does probably the best deal that you can get.
 
Range0815 said:
Hello,
i will change, because my EAS system makes trouble, the Drive Box, the Air suspension ECU and the Air suspension Delay Relay for my RR P38.
Should i put the battery out of the car?
Can i put then my old parts out and then the new parts into the Range Rover?
I'm a very bit fearfully that i make an big mistake and the new parts will be distroyed.
Or must i go to my local dealer that i can use his testbook for mutch money?
Regards
Range0815
Click to expand...

The EAS ECU rarely gives trouble, changing all that stuff without having a definate reason is just asking for more trouble.
 
Hello,
don't forget:

after changing:
* Air suspension valve block o- rings
* Air suspension valve block diaphragm
* Air suspension dryer
* Air compressor
* All air springs
* Air suspension air pressure switch
* both front height sensors

i do last week , not the first time, the recalibration with the eas software. I used for the prozedure calibration blocks.

The up and down problem of the front, i have a long time.
The symtom is also when i drive on a street or offroad or stand in front of an traffic light.

The truck do not loose air in the air bumpers. The system has no leak.

But my Range is ever going up and down at the front. When i open a door, the truck stop going up and down.

Regards
Range0815
 
Sorry to piggy-back Range0815, its either this or start yet ANOTHER eas thread!

Quick question about diagnostics, if you have the delay relay out will the diagnostics stop working? I'm using Hawkeye (I'll pause here for you all to mentally tell me that's my first mistake!) but actually it generally works great for EAS. However after unplugging the relay the hawkeye was not connecting anymore. Replugging relay has not helped. Now I had the ignition on when I did this and also I did have a bit of a struggle to get the relay off. I'm getting ready to take off the relay cover and see if I pulled out a wire or something but thought I'd ask you guys fursst! I hope having the ignition on will not have caused a problem? Eep! Scared now!
 
Rash get the dedicated EAS software EASunlock. That is by far the best you can get for the least money. You are going to screw something up big style if you keep buggering about with relays Etc. Very rarely does the timer relay fail.
 
Last edited:
rasheed said:
Sorry to piggy-back Range0815, its either this or start yet ANOTHER eas thread!

Quick question about diagnostics, if you have the delay relay out will the diagnostics stop working? I'm using Hawkeye (I'll pause here for you all to mentally tell me that's my first mistake!) but actually it generally works great for EAS. However after unplugging the relay the hawkeye was not connecting anymore. Replugging relay has not helped. Now I had the ignition on when I did this and also I did have a bit of a struggle to get the relay off. I'm getting ready to take off the relay cover and see if I pulled out a wire or something but thought I'd ask you guys fursst! I hope having the ignition on will not have caused a problem? Eep! Scared now!
Click to expand...

Never pull anything when it's live, asking for trouble, you may even have scrambled the hawkeye software:eek:
 
Fanks data. :(

Wammers I have Storey's AllComms in which in theory the EAS part for the P38 should work but that never has either. Was a waste of money tell the truth even though I got a reduced price as was one of the beta versions. Sometimes even Testbook struggles with my car but the Hawkeye has actually never failed. Other sections in the Hawkeye still work by the way but they do use a different cable. So I've either buggered the cable or tomorrow I will look at the fuses and relays in the main fusebox. Comes to it I suppose I'll go try my kit with another P38. That way if the kits good I'll know its my car and proceed by elimination.

Anyway, so as far as anyone knows, having the delay timer out won't interrupt the diagnostics?
 
Could be dodgy pins in the vehicles OBDII connector for the comms to the EAS ecu....!!
 
rasheed said:
Fanks data. :(

Wammers I have Storey's AllComms in which in theory the EAS part for the P38 should work but that never has either. Was a waste of money tell the truth even though I got a reduced price as was one of the beta versions. Sometimes even Testbook struggles with my car but the Hawkeye has actually never failed. Other sections in the Hawkeye still work by the way but they do use a different cable. So I've either buggered the cable or tomorrow I will look at the fuses and relays in the main fusebox. Comes to it I suppose I'll go try my kit with another P38. That way if the kits good I'll know its my car and proceed by elimination.

Anyway, so as far as anyone knows, having the delay timer out won't interrupt the diagnostics?
Click to expand...

Did not know the AllComms had any P38 functionality. You could have a bad connection on the OBDII port if other things also struggle to connect. But what is your problem, why have you had delay relay out. What are you trying to do?
 
if you have poor coms on diagnostic there is two three way spliced wires which corrode away and cause problems when connecting diagnostic devices.
the loom runs just under the allways leaking and problematic heater matrix o rings and coolant drips onto it and corrodes the splice.
each splice sits next too each other i think by memory one is pink and something and the other is green and something!
worth checking as i have had this before one i could only read certain ecus and the other time had intermittant coms sometimes would work other times wouldnt
 
wammers said:
Did not know the AllComms had any P38 functionality. You could have a bad connection on the OBDII port if other things also struggle to connect. But what is your problem, why have you had delay relay out. What are you trying to do?
Click to expand...

Allcomms does the P38 EAS Tony, it's the only P38 system covered by Allcomms and it's likely that it will remain that way.:)
 
Datatek said:
Allcomms does the P38 EAS Tony, it's the only P38 system covered by Allcomms and it's likely that it will remain that way.:)
Click to expand...

OK, but Rash does not say what he is trying to do or why he has had the delay relay out. Or have i missed something?
 
wammers said:
OK, but Rash does not say what he is trying to do or why he has had the delay relay out. Or have i missed something?
Click to expand...

Datatek said:
I think he's trying to see what he can destroy:smash:
Click to expand...

:hysterically_laughi

Oi!

Tony I've a leaky drain plug on the reservoir tank. I can rather slowly and painfully get the car up and so I decided to do that and then disable the EAS so it won't try self-level or anything. Using the inhibit switch has mixed results, mostly it will hold but sometimes on start up and shut down it does still try to level and if it opens the In valve as well as a corner valve, instead of air filling the spring it goes from the spring to fill the tank instead! Simple pressure gradient. So the next solution was to take out the delay timer, which by the way has worked. Only I buggered the relay in the process cause I pulled it while it was live. Today tested with a relay from another car and all was fine so basically its a new drain plug and a new relay for me.

FWIW - little nugget for future ref: EAS diags will not work if the delay timer relay is out.
 
rasheed said:
:hysterically_laughi

Oi!

Tony I've a leaky drain plug on the reservoir tank. I can rather slowly and painfully get the car up and so I decided to do that and then disable the EAS so it won't try self-level or anything. Using the inhibit switch has mixed results, mostly it will hold but sometimes on start up and shut down it does still try to level and if it opens the In valve as well as a corner valve, instead of air filling the spring it goes from the spring to fill the tank instead! Simple pressure gradient. So the next solution was to take out the delay timer, which by the way has worked. Only I buggered the relay in the process cause I pulled it while it was live. Today tested with a relay from another car and all was fine so basically its a new drain plug and a new relay for me.

FWIW - little nugget for future ref: EAS diags will not work if the delay timer relay is out.
Click to expand...



NRV 2 is there to stop air from bags exhausting into an empty tank. It is faulty and needs looking at. So you buggered the delay relay for a two penny O ring. :eek::eek:
 
Hello,
i find the problem, why my valve block don't work well. My Range was jumping in the front. The next time i will buy an new valve block and hope that the jumping is gone!
Remember i change all parts of the eas system, without the ventilblock!

The valve seat of the middle non return valve isn't round, it is oval!!!!!
So the air is ever running by the ventil. So my range is jumping!


11067706kz.jpg
 
wammers said:
NRV 2 is there to stop air from bags exhausting into an empty tank. It is faulty and needs looking at. So you buggered the delay relay for a two penny O ring. :eek::eek:
Click to expand...

No, I buggered it because I was too impatient to wait for the new drain plug. :D

I didn't have a clue about the NRV. Crap. I did the valve block once a couple of years ago and didn't enjoy it.


Hey Range0815, good job finding your problem! Wanna do my block now?
 
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