If you had taken your RR to a 'specialist' for the EAS to be checked and sorted would you have expected them to have sorted it?

No, they would do bear minimum to get it working!!

Did you tell them to overhaul and refurb the whole system?
 
If you had taken your RR to a 'specialist' for the EAS to be checked and sorted would you have expected them to have sorted it?

Lots of specialists are very good at making expensive invoices out but not good at sorting things unfortunately. I would do it myself. I don't trust anyone to work on my cars.
 
Mine rises from access fairly swiftly, literally a few seconds. I often put it in access when parking after work cos I'm unloading tools and heavy stuff. Of course I'm making the compressor work more but I want to use the feature that the car was designed for. I overhauled the valve block a year ago, and everything else had been sorted before, and it's a fantastic system when maintained.
I know you've just had new airbags done, but would suggest the valve block should be where you turn your attention to next. As wammers says a garage (no matter how 'specialist') will do the minimum amount to get things working before handing it back to you and taking your cash.
A tired valve block will give you all sorts of symptoms and if air is escaping the compressor will be working hard and eventually wear the seals.
I bought a second hand valve block off flea bay for about £40, which was in quite good nick; so fitted this to the car and then replaced all the 'o'rings in the original block at my leisure. Easy job and you can still use the car, and end up with a spare block.
 
Well, I left it running for 10 minutes this morning with the door open. I then climbed in, shut the door and selected standard height. I could see it starting to raise immediately though it did take about 10-15 seconds for the light to stop flashing. I left the car, came back about 30 minutes or so later to head out and it had to raise again slightly taking, say, 6 seconds before the light stopped flashing - i hadn't modified the height manually at all.
 
Well, I left it running for 10 minutes this morning with the door open. I then climbed in, shut the door and selected standard height. I could see it starting to raise immediately though it did take about 10-15 seconds for the light to stop flashing. I left the car, came back about 30 minutes or so later to head out and it had to raise again slightly taking, say, 6 seconds before the light stopped flashing - i hadn't modified the height manually at all.

Did the car drop in the 30 mins, if it did its time to get the soapy water spray out.:)
 
If not a leak could be the sensors. When the specialists changed the airbags did they re calibrate the heights/set the car up properly??
 
Erm, I have no idea to be perfectly honest!

For what they charged you should have everything they have done written in gold leaf on your invoice!! Spray full of soapy water, spray where the pipes enter the valve block and air bags, look for bubbles. Check out wammers post in the "how to" section for leaking diaphragm and other faults:D
 
It has behaved itself since yesterday and moved between standard and motorway easily enough. Ended up on something of a dirt track and it raised to high and back down again without issue.
 
Calibration not required on change of bags.

Exactly - point being that just because a 'specialist' garage has changed the airbags you shouldn't assume they've checked the sensors or calibration, or even looked at the valve block for leaks etc - just new bags, show us yer money.
 
Exactly - point being that just because a 'specialist' garage has changed the airbags you shouldn't assume they've checked the sensors or calibration, or even looked at the valve block for leaks etc - just new bags, show us yer money.

Bags and compressor I think. If he doesn't find the leak soon it will need another one:)
 
But they can over extend the sensors if they don't know what they are doing.
Sounds to me like the OP's car has a leaky joint/pipe/valve.

They would have to remove shocks and drop axle below normal travel to do that. Can be extended to a part of track they have never been though, that can cause a problem. Yes sounds like a leak somewhere. ;)
 
They would have to remove shocks and drop axle below normal travel to do that. Can be extended to a part of track they have never been though, that can cause a problem. Yes sounds like a leak somewhere. ;)
There have been a few with either old shocks or maybe wrong shocks where they have allowed the sensors to be over extended.
 
There have been a few with either old shocks or maybe wrong shocks where they have allowed the sensors to be over extended.

Yes if someone has fitted front shocks on the rear it is possible as they have 2" more travel.:)
 

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