Datatek said:
Could still be the blue pipe leaking Tony, if it is the same one used on both compressors it could well be the problem. There have been a few reports of failure and the finger test would show little pressure if done at the end of the pipe as is common practice.
Click to expand...

A leak in the blue pipe should be reasonably easy to spot Keith. The finger test should be done at the compressor outlet. If that is fine then it is something beyond that. You don't start singing in the middle of a song and work back towards the beginning do you?
 
Hi,
your right the finger should be sufficient, it is best done without the pipe on then again with the pipe on but make sure you remove the intake filter as a blocked one will stop the air from entering and will overheat the compressor thereby making it constantly cut in and out. also make sure air is entering the compressor by putting a thin feeler gauge by the intake hole to see if its pulled in and make sure air is not exiting the compressor from the intake hole.
 
wammers said:
A leak in the blue pipe should be reasonably easy to spot Keith. The finger test should be done at the compressor outlet. If that is fine then it is something beyond that. You don't start singing in the middle of a song and work back towards the beginning do you?
Click to expand...

You would think so !!! but I must confess I was well into the song before I found the problem :eek:. The blue teflon pipe is the last place I thought of checking and also came across the very same fault recently with another LZ members range. Will be interesting to learn of OP's problem
 
wammers said:
A leak in the blue pipe should be reasonably easy to spot Keith. The finger test should be done at the compressor outlet. If that is fine then it is something beyond that. You don't start singing in the middle of a song and work back towards the beginning do you?
Click to expand...
A small split is invisible when the pipe is not under pressure.
 
yes same here. a flexi pipe is always going to be a weak link. had a strange problem with mine, once a week it would go into a 'pressure constantly high' fault and either drop or raise the car, replaced the pressure switch,ecu,compressor and valve block reseal, it was the valve block driver unit at fault, took over a year to sus out!
 
Datatek said:
A small split is invisible when the pipe is not under pressure.
Click to expand...

That pipe will wear through but very rarely split. As i said do the compressor check at the compressor outlet. If it's good then look at everything after that. You could i suppose start by checking the tank connection and working back toward the compressor. But that would be a bit silly don't you think? To quote a song, "Lets start at the very beginning, that's a very good place to start". :):)
 
Mikey46 said:
yes same here. a flexi pipe is always going to be a weak link. had a strange problem with mine, once a week it would go into a 'pressure constantly high' fault and either drop or raise the car, replaced the pressure switch,ecu,compressor and valve block reseal, it was the valve block driver unit at fault, took over a year to sus out!
Click to expand...

Considering the driver pack has nothing to do with pressure signal circuit you did well there. Blocked exhaust silencer is usual cause of pressure constantly high problem. But it is noted that driver pack change has solved what on the face of it are unrelated problems.
 
Yes, sometimes you have to read between the lines with diagnostics! realising the effect that two seemingly unrelated items can have on each other can be mind bending at times.
 
So the soap test? Washing up liquid mix in a spray thing.

With engine running and after a lift? Spray the side of the EAS box, top of air bags, dryer top and bottom, cylinder connector and big nut on cylinder. Anywhere else?

Also, how do I get to connectors on rear air bags?

Determined to stop the damn compressor. (which is fine).

Thanks.
 
I did say a guage would show any leaks over time with bags and there lines or there nrv's intank and its line and its nrv pump pressure etc etc

The gauge has a tap you can turn off , thus locking the air as to what side it's turned , with the tap turned off if the guage goes down you have a leak simple .
keep squiring tho its such fun.

That's the thing with the eas diagnostics as good As it , its bad at detecting leaks :):):)
 
Rachelkgr said:
So the soap test? Washing up liquid mix in a spray thing.

With engine running and after a lift? Spray the side of the EAS box, top of air bags, dryer top and bottom, cylinder connector and big nut on cylinder. Anywhere else?

Also, how do I get to connectors on rear air bags?

Determined to stop the damn compressor. (which is fine).

Thanks.
Click to expand...

If as you said the car sits without losing height you can discount bags and connections to them. Pressure side is what you need to be looking at. Compressor should stop at around 140 PSI and not start again until the storage pressure drops below 120 PSI. A 20 PSI drop in pressure over a short period has to be detectable. If you can't find any leaks on the pipe work from valve block to tank or generally around valve block then it is either NRV1 leaking inside valve block or pressure switch is duff. Bad connections to pressure switch where the two red wires go into the plug can also cause this.
 
Rachelkgr said:
So the soap test? Washing up liquid mix in a spray thing.

With engine running and after a lift? Spray the side of the EAS box, top of air bags, dryer top and bottom, cylinder connector and big nut on cylinder. Anywhere else?

Also, how do I get to connectors on rear air bags?

Determined to stop the damn compressor. (which is fine).

Thanks.
Click to expand...

lift suspension and in wheel arches you can get to rear bag connectors

nb: I had a gauge installed in tank line to sort mine out (helps understanding whats going on), but now it's good I'm running without gauge.
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
If as you said the car sits without losing height you can discount bags and connections to them. Pressure side is what you need to be looking at. Compressor should stop at around 140 PSI and not start again until the storage pressure drops below 120 PSI. A 20 PSI drop in pressure over a short period has to be detectable. If you can't find any leaks on the pipe work from valve block to tank or generally around valve block then it is either NRV1 leaking inside valve block or pressure switch is duff. Bad connections to pressure switch where the two red wires go into the plug can also cause this.
Click to expand...

And the best way to find this out is
This gauge is fitted with the correct size collets and a cut off tap you will require a short piece of air line .

This little beauty is brilliant for isolating tank pressure whilst you work on the system and can be left in situ on line 6 next to the valve block afterwards to monitor air compressor performance. You can pressure test the tank, air springs and valve block for leaks giving you piece of mind that your system is airtight which is a big worry less



Remove purple line put gauge on air line( tap away from storage tank) put your own short pice of air line in to the tap side reconnect open door start car when pump stops shut off tap storage tank is now isolated of its pressure check gauge in time for leaks .....

Reverse gauge this time close tap when pump stops check valve block for leaks

You can repeat this for each and every bag when the bag in question is up close tap check for leaks in time

If a bag doesn't rise reverse gauge tap to check valve block .

At least you will know where you are at and have the added pleasure of pressure reading .

No altering or your p38 original pipe work :):):)


Merry xmass

Washing liquid contains hi quantity a of salt
Salt sprayed all over your valve block and its electrical connections does it a world of good not:rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Grit Valve said:
And the best way to find this out is
This gauge is fitted with the correct size collets and a cut off tap you will require a short piece of air line .

This little beauty is brilliant for isolating tank pressure whilst you work on the system and can be left in situ on line 6 next to the valve block afterwards to monitor air compressor performance. You can pressure test the tank, air springs and valve block for leaks giving you piece of mind that your system is airtight which is a big worry less



Remove purple line put gauge on air line( tap away from storage tank) put your own short pice of air line in to the tap side reconnect open door start car when pump stops shut off tap storage tank is now isolated of its pressure check gauge in time for leaks .....

Reverse gauge this time close tap when pump stops check valve block for leaks

You can repeat this for each and every bag when the bag in question is up close tap check for leaks in time

If a bag doesn't rise reverse gauge tap to check valve block .

At least you will know where you are at and have the added pleasure of pressure reading .

No altering or your p38 original pipe work :):):)


Merry xmass
Click to expand...

If you are saying what i think you are saying there. B****cks.
 
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