bluedog333

Well-Known Member
I’m fed up with guessing what the temperature is and after the HG change I want to be sure all the time!
The current gauge has always read hot as it and the Disco sender are mis-matched. If I bought a Durite (or VDO) gauge, how do I know if I’d need an adapter? Just buy it and try I guess?
I was hoping someone on here has a Durite gauge fitted in a Disco 200-engined Landy and could let me know.
Thanks!
 
It has been done cos I've read it on this ere forum, have you searched?
I got a Steve Parker sender which works with the original gauge. You will need to remove the old sender and check the threads because 2 thread pitches were used on the 200. I can't remember exactly how you tell but I do remember it was easy once I rang them and they explained how you tell.
It might be on their website but when I did mine I didn't have internet 16yrs ago.
 
It has been done cos I've read it on this ere forum, have you searched?
I got a Steve Parker sender which works with the original gauge. You will need to remove the old sender and check the threads because 2 thread pitches were used on the 200. I can't remember exactly how you tell but I do remember it was easy once I rang them and they explained how you tell.
It might be on their website but when I did mine I didn't have internet 16yrs ago.
It was the how to check bit that I wasn’t sure about. I’ll give Steve Parker a ring. Thanks
 
I can tell you that the Durite sender is the same thread as the Defender 300TDi because that is what I am running (and very good it is too).
Based on the assumption that 200TDi & 300TDi senders are a different thread then yes, you will need an adaptor.

DSCF0040.JPG
 
I can tell you that the Durite sender is the same thread as the Defender 300TDi because that is what I am running (and very good it is too).
Based on the assumption that 200TDi & 300TDi senders are a different thread then yes, you will need an adaptor.

View attachment 240427
I think the Disco 200 sender is different to the Defender sender and the Disco had two different threads at various points. I might be wrong about that. I’ve ordered a Durite gauge from my local factors, so I’ll just see what happens! Hopefully they can supply an adaptor if necessary.
 
Early disco 200tdi had a m16 x 1 thread on the temperature sensor. Later ones seem to be m16 x 1.5. The early fine thread adapters can be difficult to get, i bought a die and made my own.
 
Early disco 200tdi had a m16 x 1 thread on the temperature sensor. Later ones seem to be m16 x 1.5. The early fine thread adapters can be difficult to get, i bought a die and made my own.
Stupid question, how does an adapter work if both sizes are M16? Surely any adapter would decrease the diameter and the M16 sender thread wouldn’t fit?
 
@Litch
Your dash looks modded e.g. the hex head bolts. Does it pull out from the binnacle or just attached that way? If you want to get to the dials etc do you still have to remove the whole binnacle or does the front pull away?
Sorry for the interogation :eek: been working behind mine and it just looks different.
 
Stupid question, how does an adapter work if both sizes are M16? Surely any adapter would decrease the diameter and the M16 sender thread wouldn’t fit?
The senders that come with the durite gauge are something like 1/8th NPTF, so you need an adapter. There are packs of adapters available, but I couldn't find one that fitted - so made my own. I should have a spare if you are stuck.
 
"@Litch
Your dash looks modded e.g. the hex head bolts. Does it pull out from the binnacle or just attached that way? If you want to get to the dials etc do you still have to remove the whole binnacle or does the front pull away?
Sorry for the interogation :eek: been working behind mine and it just looks different."


It is a Raptor binnacle and the front plate is just that, a plate (it is available in different finishes but I went for black) and the clocks are mounted in the normal way.
I had been pressing Raptor for years to make the binnacle (I already had the mount & console) and then back in 2015 they finally came up with it (just after I had bought a brand-new LRGP item!). It is an excellent piece of kit.
 
@zeaphod I should have just listened to you in the first place! I bought the metric Durite adaptors, but I have exactly the same problem as you did to begin with - original thread is fine, adaptor is coarse. Did you end up ever converting any of the adaptors to fine thread? I’m going to buy a m16x1 die, is there enough meat on the supplied m16x1.5 adaptor to cut a new fine thread? thanks!
 
@zeaphod I should have just listened to you in the first place! I bought the metric Durite adaptors, but I have exactly the same problem as you did to begin with - original thread is fine, adaptor is coarse. Did you end up ever converting any of the adaptors to fine thread? I’m going to buy a m16x1 die, is there enough meat on the supplied m16x1.5 adaptor to cut a new fine thread? thanks!
Yes, I did convert a couple - there is enough meat on the supplied adapters. However I found an M16x1 die was pricey/hard to get - PM me your address and I'll post you an adapter I made out of the set.
 
Yes, I did convert a couple - there is enough meat on the supplied adapters. However I found an M16x1 die was pricey/hard to get - PM me your address and I'll post you an adapter I made out of the set.
Thanks for the offer chap! I ordered a M16x1 split die from fleaBay before I saw this. Only £8, so I’ll see what turns up. If I get stuck and give up I’ll be in contact! Thanks again.
 
Well, all fitted today, seems to work fine. The needle would still move about if lights/indicators/brakes were used, so I popped another earth between the bulkhead earths and the engine block. She now sits rock steady, seems a bit low at around 80, but it does rise a bit higher when slogging it uphill. I’ll keep an eye on it and see if I can borrow an IR thermometer to confirm temperatures.
Now I’m going to have to change the other gauges to match!
 

Similar threads