natas · Apr 17, 2012

I am soon going to change my suspension, springs and shocks on all four corners.
I have 2 questions.

1. I do not want to lift my truck, I want to keep it stock.
However lots of the adds that I have read and forums say that I will get about a 1" lift with stock replacements, so. With a 1" lift will this bother my bushings, u-joints, brake lines or anything else? As I have read that lifting the vehicle could mess things up.

2. My 90 is 13 years old. I am in the Bahamas and will have to import everything that I will need. Is there anything else that I should change/replace at the same time that I replace the suspension?
Any parts that usually have to be replaced like bushings.....? it would suck to pull her down then have to wait a couple weeks for more parts.

Thanks.

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 17, 2012

it means its sagged by an inch over the years

.

Pikey · Apr 17, 2012

the abobve is only true if your springs are knackered.

get new turret rings as the retaing studs almost always snap. check the springmount brackets on the axles are solid and not rotted.

Trewey · Apr 17, 2012

What Daft says.

You will need new turret rings.

jamesmartin · Apr 17, 2012

not if you dont remove turret, which you dont need to

Pikey · Apr 17, 2012

jamesmartin said:
not if you dont remove turret, which you dont need to

True a reciprocating saw straight down the center of shocker and top nut & straight up thru the bottom nut makes getting them off so much easier as well

natas · Apr 17, 2012

Now I have to make the choice of what brand?????

Seems no one really agree's what the best.

My 90 is a pickup and I am quite happy with the way she rides but she is sgging a bit in the front and some times I can tell the shocks are shot when I hit a bump at speed.
I want to keep her as close to stock as possible.
will keep digging.

wiltshire landyman · Apr 17, 2012

oh and dont call it a feckin truck its a landrover

Soloby Rob · Apr 17, 2012

redhand said:
True a reciprocating saw straight down the center of shocker and top nut & straight up thru the bottom nut makes getting them off so much easier as well

So do you just weld it all back together after fitting a new spring then.

Sphene · Apr 17, 2012

If you like how it rides now just go for stock. I have had a couple of different brands including new stock and for a standard set up stock is great. If you fancy something a little different gas shockers etc I would go for old man emu speak to 4x4 scotland or tbr uk they can advise you on the best set up for your needs

Soloby Rob · Apr 17, 2012

Sphene said:
If you like how it rides now just go for stock. I have had a couple of different brands including new stock and for a standard set up stock is great. If you fancy something a little different gas shockers etc I would go for old man emu speak to 4x4 scotland or tbr uk they can advise you on the best set up for your needs

he's in the Bahamas mate

Pikey · Apr 17, 2012

Soloby Rob said:
So do you just weld it all back together after fitting a new spring then.

Nope yu fit the noo shocks he said he was getting in the 1st post.

Sphene · Apr 18, 2012

Soloby Rob said:
he's in the Bahamas mate

May be a little far to go. Guess they may insist on seeing the vehicle

Dads toy · Apr 18, 2012

I've just done my hard top and, like you, didn't want a lift so went for standard Land Rover springs (reasonable price) then ashamed to admit

put Brit***rt shocks on. The springs seemed hard compared to the old knackered one's but soon settled down. The shocks were awful so I replaced them with Armstrong (o.e.) from Mail Order 4x4 and they're a huge amount better.

Like others have said, new turret rings certainly, I also swapped the turrets for Gwyn Lewis one's as they're galvanised and made so you can actually get at the shock. New bottom mounts at the front (also galvanised from G.L.) will make sure you won't have problems with the old rusty one's.
At the back, just make sure the top attachment is still good and also the dished washer (it has to go on with the dish against the top shock ring so it can articulate. If it goes flat against it that's a recipe for a broken shock ring.)
The hardest part will be freeing the old nuts, especially the front bottom plus stopping the shock turning as you loosen/tighten the nuts.

Good luck

Malcolm

natas · Apr 18, 2012

Ive already started soaking everything down with WD40 as it all looks really rusty.

I will check out the Gwyn Lewis stuff

Thanks!

Trewey · Apr 18, 2012

This might be useful.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/how-replace-200-tdi-defender-front-shock-absorber-57044.html

Soloby Rob · Apr 18, 2012

Trewey said:
This might be useful.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/how-replace-200-tdi-defender-front-shock-absorber-57044.html

That's a very polite way of saying "do a fu*king :search: " Trewey

natas · May 17, 2012

Trewey said:
This might be useful.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/how-replace-200-tdi-defender-front-shock-absorber-57044.html

Thanks so much Trewey!

Very helpful, I will do this myself when the parts arrive.

natas · May 17, 2012

One more silly question.

I am also planning a winch and winch bumper.

Will the stock LR springs and shocks be good or should I go heavy duty in the front?

Thanks.

COA · May 17, 2012

natas said:
One more silly question.

I am also planning a winch and winch bumper.

Will the stock LR springs and shocks be good or should I go heavy duty in the front?

Thanks.

I am not talking to you as you live in the bahamas and I am too jealous....

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

Well-Known Member

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

Well-Known Member

I’m back

Banned

New Member

Banned

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

New Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

Banned

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Similar threads