james6546

james6546

Well-Known Member
Thought I would make a separate thread for this, not getting many ideas in my rebuild thread.

Has anyone on here done this before?

I have ordered my chassis with extra mounts for a TD5 tank, and thought that while it was in parts it would be a million times easier to fit a dual tank system, or at least most of it.

So my thoughts are that I will put a TD5 tank in as usual, but with a 12V pump for the fuel (have seen some on ebay for about £20) which pumps into the filler of the original under the seat tank.

I wanted to use a split neck filler to fill the new tank as I am trying to keep my 90 reasonably standard looking, but I am struggling to find anything like that.

Has anyone seen one of those before, or have any ideas on how I could do get the fuel in?

I thought about having the filler in the load bay, but decided it might be against regs, plus it will prob result in crap in the tank.
 
Just looking, I think I might go for something like this and connect straight to the fuel pipe, rather than transferring it.

Vegetable oil fuel tank selector solenoid valve for vegoil SVO WVO UCO biodiesel | eBay

If I get time I will get around to making my android control app, which will hopefully be able to report fuel levels and switch the fuel supply without a lot of switches and gauges.

Edit: would I need 2 to divert the fuel return valve as well?
 
Last edited:
yes you do need to divert your fuel return.

if you want it to be a pukka setup anyway :)
 
james6546 said:
Just looking, I think I might go for something like this and connect straight to the fuel pipe, rather than transferring it.

Vegetable oil fuel tank selector solenoid valve for vegoil SVO WVO UCO biodiesel | eBay

If I get time I will get around to making my android control app, which will hopefully be able to report fuel levels and switch the fuel supply without a lot of switches and gauges.
Click to expand...

you can use a solenoid operated valve or a pollak 6 way position valve. Either work well, though a pollak doesnt drain current once in the correct position , solenoid operated one does.

LOL @ android app! what if your phone battery dies!
 
vilguy said:
yes you do need to divert your fuel return.

if you want it to be a pukka setup anyway :)
Click to expand...

Hmm, 2 of them is making this expensive...

The other option is using the existing TD5 fuel pump to pump fuel into the main tank, which would be easier but isn't as elegant solution to me.
 
vilguy said:
you can use a solenoid operated valve or a pollak 6 way position valve. Either work well, though a pollak doesnt drain current once in the correct position , solenoid operated one does.

LOL @ android app! what if your phone battery dies!
Click to expand...

Well I would have a car charger! The plan is I want to keep it mostly standard inside, so instead of a load of switches I will have an app controlling stuff via bluetooth. Should be quite cool.

I am saving up my tesco clubcard points to get a hudl.
 
james6546 said:
Well I would have a car charger! The plan is I want to keep it mostly standard inside, so instead of a load of switches I will have an app controlling stuff via bluetooth. Should be quite cool.

I am saving up my tesco clubcard points to get a hudl.
Click to expand...

just sounds overly expensive and hassly to be honest. You dont need to have loads of switches on show. The good thing about switches is they are reliable... electronics.....:rolleyes:... get caught out and drown the thing and your going no where. Just my two penneth anyway. I always try and avoid electronics and stick to mechanical solutions (this is in the nuclear and defence industry)

Anyway, the pollack valve is the cheap solution, but not as efficient. It really depends if you are intending to dual fuel or just use the 2 tanks with diesel. If that latter, just use a small fuel transfer pump to pump into your main tank.
 
The simple way is use the biggest tank as main , then you just need to pump from 2nd to main untill empty , the return goes back to main . You dont need a second fuel guage , as you know what it holds and just fill right up when refueling , and you can see how much is in main by guage anyway . no need for switch overs etc . Its worked ok for me for over 40yrs ! HTSH
 
Would be both for diesel I think, I am hoping to go on an expedition some day, and the tank currently doesn't get much more than 200 miles!

For things that are mission critical there would be a manual override for, I wouldn't leave anything relying on a computer that I needed to get somewhere.

Worst case with this is that I can only use one tank. Not the end of the world.

tacr2man, so you are saying that I should change it to use the TD5 tank as the main, and then pump from the other into it.

Will the TD5 tank sender work with the current fuel gauge?
 
I have three tanks in mine. Main under rear floor, 2nd small tank where filler is, so really an increase to the capacity of the main tank. Then a 3rd aux tank under passenger seat. (110 LHD).


Aux tank has no fuel return. Simply a line to a pump (operated by a switch on the dash) which pumps fuel to a join in the filler funnel. Not too sure on details to be honest but works well. Not my
Install.

I have two fuel senders but one fuel gauge. A three way switch on the dash connects one or other sender to the gauge. So a quick flick of the switch and you can check either tank.

Works well.
 
I run a very similar setup to NR above . Main rear CSW tank , then underrearwing tank , fills same time as main , so basically adds 11 gallons to main tank capacity, the main tank fuel sender operates the one fuel guage I find that i have to travel about 180 miles before the needle moves off full . I then wait untill the guage drops to half , before pumping the 11 gallon under drivers seat tank (n o guage as I know what it holds ) untill its empty ( tell by pump noise) . Cant advise on guage compatability ala TD5 as not had to deal with the problem , only fitted a TD5 speedo to 90 to supply speed signal to edc .
 
If it's all just for diesel, another very simple solution would be Jerry cans. No switches, pumps, diverters or electronics! Also, if your fuel lift pump springs a leak or your fuel tank is damaged, you can always stick one on the roof with some fuel line and it will get you where you need to go.
 
sp00k said:
If it's all just for diesel, another very simple solution would be Jerry cans. No switches, pumps, diverters or electronics! Also, if your fuel lift pump springs a leak or your fuel tank is damaged, you can always stick one on the roof with some fuel line and it will get you where you need to go.
Click to expand...

I will probably take jerry cans too, but with it being a 90, I am limited on space.

Just met up with browny90 and got a sender and the pipework, so I think I will be going down the pump into the original tank route.
 
james6546 said:
I will probably take jerry cans too, but with it being a 90, I am limited on space.

Just met up with browny90 and got a sender and the pipework, so I think I will be going down the pump into the original tank route.
Click to expand...

Being a 110 ex-mod, I've got 2 lockers on mine, each of which take 2 x 20l can. I've not used them (other than to test), but I would like to do a little tour around Morocco at some point, so they will be handy then :)

Of course, you could always just stock up on 20l cans of veg oil in the back :)
 
I'll revive this thread as I still haven't made some decisions on this...what does everyone reckon?

So..I had done some reading on using the TD5 pump to pump into the front tank from the back, apparently it has a high and a low flow, the high (180l/h) goes to the engine, and the low (30l/h) goes through the filter. If I am going to use this I am going to have to rig up a pretty complicated setup, plus I don't have the electrical connectors I need. Maybe slightly above my skill level...

So, I can either get a V8 in tank pump which would pump to the front tank, should be reasonably simple and I can get one for £35, but I don't have a wiring connector for one of these either.

Or I can have a couple of solenoids/pollak 6 way switch that would switch the fuel supply between tanks, and a disco 300tdi sender/pickup in the td5 tank (£35). I kind of like this idea better as it is a cleaner solution, but it is more expensive and I am close to the end of my budget. The pollak switch is better as it doesn't use any power once switched, but I am struggling to find one.
 
Ok, I decided on my own. I am going to do a fuel switchover valve, it just seems like the better way to do it.

Just ordered a Pollak 6 way valve, and a load of pipe.

I think I am going to have a 2 way switch that flicks between the tanks as I don't want to lose the clock. Plus when I finally get around to making my app, that will report both levels.
 
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