You might rescue it if you clean it thoroughly with a suitable PCB cleaner, most likely as Fanatic said, it's fooked.
 
Playing around with the loom and cleaning the PCB board made a big difference, but still not running perfectly. I have ordered another engine ECU off of ebay. What are the things to consider when replacing the ECU's? I have faultmate MVS. do I need to reprogram the immobilization code?
 
Playing around with the loom and cleaning the PCB board made a big difference, but still not running perfectly. I have ordered another engine ECU off of ebay. What are the things to consider when replacing the ECU's? I have faultmate MVS. do I need to reprogram the immobilization code?
Most important thing is to get the right version for your car. You can re-sync with Faultmate.
 
As Keith says you must get the correct version. Then just read the code from it and write it to the BECM.
 
what is the correct order of things in replacing? I hope I got the right version, all the numbers on the cover match...
 
what is the correct order of things in replacing? I hope I got the right version, all the numbers on the cover match...

Then it should be ok. Disconnect battery fit new module, reconnect battery switch on and use diag to read security code from ECU write that to BECM. You may have to cycle the ignition and all should be fine.
 
So, resolution! just in time for the new year.
The car has been running perfectly for the last few days, after thoroughly cleaning the PCB on the engine ECU. Not a glitch, hiccup or 'misfire' (which indeed is more like hesitation than a misfire as Wammers said).
I am still waiting for the ECU I purchased, to be installed just so that I feel better.
Thank you all for your help.
 

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